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Darkvoice just released 332 - Page 97

post #1441 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradofan2 View Post
My favorites are:

2 - Svetlana 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Ulynovsk 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Tung Sol 6AK5 or 5654

In exchange for Tung Sols - others like in about this order of preference:

2 - Western Electric 403B
or
2 - Mullard 8100 / EF95
2 - RCA 6AK5 or 5654
2 - Sylvania 6AK5 or 5654

The Tung Sols are a bit hard to find - but they're really great - fast, solid, clear.

The stock tubes aren't terrible.
Hey, let me add my favorite tube, LM Ericsson 403B. I compared it with WE 403A/B, Mullard 4010, 850, and EF95, and found that I like LM far more than any other tubes. Actually LMs sound is very close to that of WE403B, but with better/more controlled bass.

My only problem is I have too many WE403Bs (around 12 tubes) but can't find any extra LM403B. I don't know why I can't stop bidding those WE403B when seeing it on eBay, though I don't really prefer its sound.
post #1442 of 1888
Sounds like the perfect tube, PrTV. One of my favourites is the WE403B, but I recognise its main weakness - its light bass. Not a particular weakness for me since I listen to a lot of acoustic based music. The clarity of the 403Bs, whether they be the LMs or WEs, just can't be matched.
post #1443 of 1888
I have decided on LM 403B but still undecided about these 3:

2 - Svetlana 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Ulynovsk 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Tung Sol 6AK5 or 5654

Has anyone heard all 3 before? how do they sound compared to each other?
post #1444 of 1888
Windrider, with the LM403B the Svetlanas would probably be the best tube. It has a tube richness that compliments the leaness and clarity of the 403Bs. The Ulyanovsks do not really possess that richness, and are much more solid state in character. Their presentation is more neutral - if a tube can be said to be neutral - and detailed. But with the LM403Bs it might verge on being forward, but still excellent. Just depends on what you want.

The Tung-sol are great tubes, but may match well with the Ulyanovsks. In contrast to the 403Bs, the Tung-sols have the tube richness without lossing any clarity. But with the neutralness of the Ulyanovsks it would be an ideal match.
post #1445 of 1888

I've Got all of These...

Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider View Post
I have decided on LM 403B but still undecided about these 3:

2 - Svetlana 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Ulynovsk 6S19P-V or 6S19P-B (same tube)
2 - Tung Sol 6AK5 or 5654

Has anyone heard all 3 before? how do they sound compared to each other?
I'm got them all.

I prefer the Svets and Tung Sols - clear, clean, detailed, tight bass w impact, airy soundstage w precise positioning - not too warm, not too cold - very natural without artificial air & space. Amazing with Senns and Denons.

Don't recall the sound of the Uly's, but I don't think they're much different than the Svets - maybe a bit softer than the Svets, which are pretty punchy and dynamic, as are the Tung Sols.

By the way... the Svets or Ulys are used in combination with the Tung Sols or WEs, Mullards, RCAs, etc. 6AK5s, or 5654s.
post #1446 of 1888
About the difference in sound signature between Uly (why the name has to be this difficult ) and Svetlana, I agree from my experience with a pair of Svets I got from Zodduska and a pair of Uly I already have, that the difference is very subtle. I mean, the difference is there, but it's difficult to differentiate one from another without A/Bing them.

It's too bad that DV332 has significantly lesser tube rolling option, comparing to DV336.

By the way, has anyone tried modding this amp yet?
Now I'm really interested in modding this thing, but can't find any guide or information yet. First thing I want to do is changing the pot -like replacing that cheap pot with Apls Blue Velvet, but frankly, I don't know it it's compatible and if it will fit in that small space.

If I get enough information, I'll pass it to my dad, who has experience with many amps, tubes and SS, to let him do it for me. Too bad my dad's too busy to observe this thing and find out for me which components to be upgraded and such.

I saw someone mod their 336, but with 332 I haven't seen such information (yet) anywhere. No love for 332?
post #1447 of 1888

Yeah...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PrTv View Post
About the difference in sound signature between Uly (why the name has to be this difficult ) and Svetlana, I agree from my experience with a pair of Svets I got from Zodduska and a pair of Uly I already have, that the difference is very subtle. I mean, the difference is there, but it's difficult to differentiate one from another without A/Bing them.
Yeah... I notice much greater differences when I change the 6AK5/5654s than I do the 6S19s.

What differences do you notice between the Svets and Ulys?

The tube rolling options is about the only reason to upgrade to the DV337 - which I consider occasionally. But... the DV332 sounds so close to the DV337, and I'm so pleased with its sound - I've just not been been motivated enough to upgrade. No doubt the DV332 is the "sweet spot" and a huge bargain - if you can find "your sound" with the limited tube options. I did.
post #1448 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradofan2 View Post
The tube rolling options is about the only reason to upgrade to the DV337 - which I consider occasionally. But... the DV332 sounds so close to the DV337, and I'm so pleased with its sound - I've just not been been motivated enough to upgrade. No doubt the DV332 is the "sweet spot" and a huge bargain - if you can find "your sound" with the limited tube options. I did.
While all of this may well be the case, does the 332 really sound close to the 337? I was under the impression they sounded quite different (regardless of which may be "better"). I have never heard the 332 so I cannot say, but the 337, which uses 6AS7 power triodes, I would think would deliver a more dynamic sound than the 332 (and indeed the 337's dynamic capabilities are pretty impressive). Anyone actually compared the two?
post #1449 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazuki View Post
I would build a Bijou
How does your DV337 compared to your Bijou? Do you own the DV332 as well?
post #1450 of 1888

Darkvoice, As Well As...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post
While all of this may well be the case, does the 332 really sound close to the 337? I was under the impression they sounded quite different (regardless of which may be "better"). I have never heard the 332 so I cannot say, but the 337, which uses 6AS7 power triodes, I would think would deliver a more dynamic sound than the 332 (and indeed the 337's dynamic capabilities are pretty impressive). Anyone actually compared the two?
Yeah... I've heard this from Darkvoice, one of the eBay vendors (don't recall which one), and at least one Headfier - <10% improvement from DV332 and DV337. They refer to the DV332 as the "little DV337."

This from Jasmine:

"Hi-end Darkvoice 332 Headphone Tube Amp
(2007 Brand New Version,nickname :little 337)

works as good as the Darkvoice 337"


The DV332 has a very, dynamic and powerful sound - with great clarity a lot like a tube hybrid, or SS with a "tubey" sound.

I would have thought the DV337 would have sounded more like a more powerful DV336 with its tube complement - a more "tubey" sound than the DV332.

Mazuki has compared the two.
post #1451 of 1888
OK, cool, your description of the 332 does sound a lot like the 337.

I know Mazuki is pretty high on the 337, so it would be interesting to hear his take on the two - I know I have probably read it before but forgotten
post #1452 of 1888
The 332 is ripe for modding. The subject has been raised here before, but no-one, to my knowledge, has yet taken the plunge.

The cheap carbon pot could go and replaced with an Alps RK27. A stepped attenuator would also be an option - if it would fit. The SCR output caps (33uF) could also go. Larger values could be fitted, making it more compatable with lower impedance headphones. Again, space has to be thought off, as a larger value film cap would take up more room. I'm loathe to fit a electrolytic in this postion, even a good quality one like a NICHICON MUSE or PANASONIC FM. The power smoothing electrolytics in the PSU section could also be upgraded, as well as the power resistors. But at what point does it stop being a 332 and becomes a 3322.

A more obvious mod is a good quality fuse. I've heard of some getting excellent results with them. That will probably be my next move.
post #1453 of 1888

Coolin' 'er Down...

A recent discussion re: how to "cool down" the Bada PH-12, caused me to become concerned about the heat of the DV332.

After checking it on a few occassions, I noticed its case does get pretty warm to the touch. I had never noticed this before... and... at one point had thought it ran at reasonable temperatures - or, at least it didn't seem as warm as it does now.

It has a pretty small chassis to house some pretty big, warm caps, with very little venting to dissipate the heat.

So, I experimented with some of the ideas in the PH-12 thread to see if I could "cool 'er down." If so, hopefully the components will last longer.

I removed the bottom plate and set the amp on two layers of 1x2 pine strips from Lowes for about $2 - 1 row in the front and one in the back, next to the front and back plates. I stuck them to the bottom with some 3M dual sided tape, and stuck the two layers together with the same, and stuck some rubber furniture cushion pads on the bottom, that I got from WalMart for about $2.

This contraption raises the amp about 1 1/2" off the shelf, allowing plenty of air to circulate beneath the amp... and... it does cool it down quite a bit with just convection.

But... I removed most of the remaining warmth from the case by placing a small four inch personal fan on the shelf to blow on it - also purchased at WalMart for about $6. As they did for the PH-12, you can buy small 115v component cooling fans at Radio Shack, which could be placed underneath the case to blow up into the interior, but that's a lot more involved, and requires more "jury-rigging," and isn't really necessary.

"Works like a charm" if you're concerned that your DV332 gets too warm - and I'm sure it will increase component life.

By the way... as noted earlier in this thread... the workmanship inside the DV332 is a "real work of art."
post #1454 of 1888
Nice one, Gradofan. My 332 heats up badly around the resistors (the large green components) on the front left hand side. Really hot.

To tell you the truth I really haven't messed around with my 332. I did try to remove the bottom but it wouldn't come off. Is there any special way to remove it?
post #1455 of 1888
About the heat issue, I use this method.

Don't laugh!


That microphone stand also acts as my headphones' stand, and the amp cools down significantly, the left side is pretty warm though, but not hot in any way.

I doubt if this method could cool components inside down, since there is no hole anywhere but the top.

Anyway, has anyone encountered any kind of "real" heat issue with this amp? (I mean when heat really causes some kind of problem like X-Can's overheat issue).

I remember someone posting some internal pics of DV332 and I could see some burn trace on the internal wire. That wire, I believe, is under the power tubes.
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