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Darkvoice just released 332 - Page 81

post #1201 of 1888
The SVETLANAs and the ULYANOVSK made tubes are not totally different, but they do have their own sound signatures: the SVETs are warmer, more euphonic, and possess a bigger soundstage, while the ULYs are leaner and have better separation.
post #1202 of 1888
Do your darkvoice hum?
When I raise volume more than 1/4, it starts to hum.
It's not very noticable, but when volume is at 1/2 it's disturbing.Or is it normal?
I've changed tubes to ully's and mullard cv4010, and it's still there.
In this case do headphones matter?
post #1203 of 1888

No Hum...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mybeat View Post
Do your darkvoice hum?
When I raise volume more than 1/4, it starts to hum.
It's not very noticable, but when volume is at 1/2 it's disturbing.Or is it normal?
I've changed tubes to ully's and mullard cv4010, and it's still there.
In this case do headphones matter?
No hum at any volume with mine.

If you've changed all the tubes in all the sockets, then it would seem that it's not in the tubes.

Might be "ground loop" hum. Though I don't think it increases with volume - don't know. You can check for it by getting an adapter plug for your power cable and attaching it before you plug it into your power source. Though... I don't know what type of power cable plugs you have in Estonia? You'll have to check with someone locally (e.g. hardware store, or electrical shop, or whatever).

Other than that... I suppose it could be the quality of the power - you might try a "power center" of some type to "clean the power" to your equipment.

If you've swaped out your source with another to make sure its not in your source... and... if its none of the above... it may be coming from a component in your amp? I'd probably take it to an electrical repair shop to have them check it out - probably cost you a small amount. Obtain an estimate to repair it. If that's less than returning it to Darkvoice for repair - then you can have it repaired locally. The shipping cost is the "great equalizer" - since it may cost you $80+ dollars to ship it back to Darkvoice. As long as the repair is less than the return shipping cost - it's probably better to have it repaired locally.
post #1204 of 1888
Thank you Gradofan2
The problem was with a microphone plugged in my xi-fi.When i removed it the hum went away.
post #1205 of 1888
Wow, 121 pages. Only took me 2 days to read it all, but now I just ordered the DV332 from Jasmine to go with my HD650s. Can't wait!!!!

I also got a Keces USB DAC yesterday (DA-151) and should get here around the same time as the DV332. I know people were asking about an inexpensive DAC. You should check out the Keces DA-151 going for $250. Review here :

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/re...s-burn-297021/


Had a quick question for Gradofan2 (or anyone else that can shed some light):


I saw your link for the silver interconnects, but I am someone who loves the warmer, lusher sound over the analytical one. Do you think I might be better off getting all copper ICs instead of the all silver ones?

Also, would you agree that for me to obtain the warmest and lushest sound with the most bass, that I should go with the Mullard 8100s and Svetlanas. I do not mind if they take away from the higher frequencies. I absolutely can not stand harsh highs.


Thanks for the great read guys.
post #1206 of 1888
A few interesting developments with my DV332:

- got my new pair of WE403B. My old pair definitely had a constant whine. The new ones eliminated this.
- however, I still get intermittent whine. When I tap the amp or tubes it goes away. The last time, tapping one of the Svets stopped it.
- after reading this thread (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/any...79/index3.html), I decided to check out Herbies dampers. The hope is that they will cure the intermittent whine. Any positive changes in SQ is gravy. Otherwise, I'll return or sell to another Head-fier.
- another thought is that I need to clean the contacts on my swapped tubes.
- in anticipation of my Herbies arrival, I removed the stock tube covers. I took a listen with them off and definitely heard a buzz/hum. After some testing, I realized that it was my Airport Express causing the problem (my AE sits underneath my DV, about 6 inches below with a wooden shelf between). Covers back on, no buzz. Covers off, buzz. And the buzz only came during the computer delay when I hit Play and the music started playing.
- Solution? I thought this was quite ingenious. A piece of aluminum foil folded to the size of the DV and placed under (between DV and shelf). No more buzz!
- FYI: I still have cheater plugs on my DV and OMZ DAC.

I detail all of this not to suggest a faulty amp or suggest against anyone else's purchase. I really love the sound out of the DV, and am willing to do these little gyrations to eliminate any final barriers to bliss. And maybe a future owner will have a AE too close and a piece of foil can help...

Best-case scenario: The Herbies will fix the occasional whine (and possibly improve sound). Keep the foil. Remove the cheater plugs. Tubes are clean. Bliss.

Worst-case scenario: Herbies go back. Keep the foil. Keep cheaters. Clean tubes. Occasionally have to tap a Svet to eliminate whine. 99% near bliss.
post #1207 of 1888

These Aren't Harsh...

Quote:
Originally Posted by onlychild View Post
Wow, 121 pages. Only took me 2 days to read it all, but now I just ordered the DV332 from Jasmine to go with my HD650s. Can't wait!!!!

I also got a Keces USB DAC yesterday (DA-151) and should get here around the same time as the DV332. I know people were asking about an inexpensive DAC. You should check out the Keces DA-151 going for $250. Review here :

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f46/re...s-burn-297021/


Had a quick question for Gradofan2 (or anyone else that can shed some light):


I saw your link for the silver interconnects, but I am someone who loves the warmer, lusher sound over the analytical one. Do you think I might be better off getting all copper ICs instead of the all silver ones?

Also, would you agree that for me to obtain the warmest and lushest sound with the most bass, that I should go with the Mullard 8100s and Svetlanas. I do not mind if they take away from the higher frequencies. I absolutely can not stand harsh highs.


Thanks for the great read guys.
The CT Silver cables aren't excessively harsh, or strident - as some silver cables reportedly are.

Though, I suspect some good copper cables would sound warmer.

I just love the clarity and detail of these cables - especially with Senns. If you're using other phones (e.g. Grados, ATs, etc.), the copper may be fine.
post #1208 of 1888
i ordered some mullards from Antique Electronic Supply

and they arrived today, except they say they are National Eletronics 5654/6AK5W, made in Illinois...

Are these similar to mullards at all??

As soon as I plugged them in, I got a loud hum on the right side when volume is at zero, I didn't have ground loop issues before so I don't think it's that.
I'm going to swap tubes.. (I ordered 4 tubes)

Tubes swapped and this time the hum is in the opposite channel
so 2 good tubes and 2 bad tubes
lol
Tubes swapped again and now all 4 have hum
I'm going to leave them on overnight and see if anything changes
btw this isn't the same hum i experienced with the svetlanas. that hum was at a much lower volume

Does the DV332 have a pair of tubes for each channel of audio?
It must..
post #1209 of 1888
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamwhisper View Post
i ordered some mullards from Antique Electronic Supply

and they arrived today, except they say they are National Eletronics 5654/6AK5W, made in Illinois...

Are these similar to mullards at all??
I'm not sure - 6AK5W - the "w" in the designation indicates a ruggedized tube. Mullards are also ruggedized, only made in Britain with a slightly different internal design. So far my tube rolling indicates probably no, they are not the same, although I don't have any National Electronics branded tubes 6AK5W's. I do have some sylvania 6AK5W's. They are nice tubes, but are not identical to Mullards.

"Mullards" for the DV332 means (IMO) Mullard branded M8100 & CV4010 that share the "mullard" sound - lush & warm, with slightly rolled off highs and very slightly smeared detail . They are distinct in sound from USA branded tubes. Mullards are my 2nd favorite so far even though their sound signiture is much different from my current favorite - Western Electric 403

Dream whisperer - have you had a chance to pop the Soviet drivers in and give them a listen yet ?
post #1210 of 1888
As Bada Bing says the "W" designates a ruggedised tube, usually for military purposes. The M8100s and CV4010s are ruggedised, long life versions of the EF95. The 5654 is a "special" version of the 6AK5, again usually for military purposes.

The 6AK5W and 5654 are US designated tubes while the E95, M8100 and CV4010 use the European coding. They all have different plate and filament designs, but they all belong to the same class of signal amplifing pentodes.
post #1211 of 1888
As a person who knows practically nothing about it I take it that we mustn't assume that ruggedized = better for audio. Ruggedized could mean a similar plate configuration with extra supports of the internal structure of the valve to protect it from vibration and shock, or it could mean a completely different internal design. I don't know.
post #1212 of 1888
As you say, DennyL, the ruggedised versions are simply better made because they are employed in military applications, ie black-plates to prevent corrison etc. But generally the ruggedised versions do sound better.
post #1213 of 1888

What About the 403B's?

I've read all the posts re: the WE 403B's, and their clarity and detail, but weak bass.

But... I've become enamored with the bass and mids of the Tung Sols, which also have good clarity and detail.

Is the bass of the WE 403B's a lot weaker, and do they sound a bit too lean compared to the Tung Sols, RCAs and Mullards?
post #1214 of 1888
I received an e-mail back from http://www.tubesandmore.com/:

Hello,

I'm sorry, we will send Mullard CV4010 QTY:4 tubes at no charge. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Thanks,

bada bing:
If by soviet drivers you mean the Svetlana 6S19P-Bs, my impressions are on pg.120.
I had mixed feelings, but in the end it's really hard for me to say because atm I'm running directly out of my computer's headphone out and I haven't heard many other tubes.
post #1215 of 1888
The 403Bs bass is weaker than the likes of MULLARDS, TUNG-SOLS and RAYTHEONs - but not massively so. I suspect that some bassheads would find that weakness annoying after a while.
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