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hakko vs quakko ?

post #1 of 20
9/30/06 at 9:18pm
Thread Starter 
I was doing a search for a hakko 936 soldier station and ran accross the quakko 936. From the pictures they look to be the same station. I tried doing a search for quakko but not much came up. Are these imitation hakkos or are they realy the same thing but rebranded?

Any other recommendations for a soldier station in the $100 range would also be appriciated.
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post #2 of 20
9/30/06 at 9:24pm
I'd get a Hakko Dash before I got a Quakko anything.
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post #3 of 20
9/30/06 at 9:39pm
Thread Starter 
So there is a difference in the companies that make these?
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post #4 of 20
9/30/06 at 10:35pm
is it made by donald duck and daffy duck?

quite a few companies make hakko clones / knock-offs / etc. but I don't think Hakko does or allows any rebranding to be sold under a different name.
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post #5 of 20
9/30/06 at 10:48pm
I pity the poor guy who translated that for their English marketing.
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post #6 of 20
10/1/06 at 12:03am
Hi,

I like Weller WCPT. There is a newer version now. Should cost fairly low because it doesn't have fancy temperature controls, but who needs them. Get a #7 tip and you are set. (700F)

Temperature controls are waaaay overrated. Recovery time is important, but it has nothing to do with temperature control. It has to do with having quality heating elements. Some professional opt for soldering pens like Antex. (Oh those are good, too.)

Not however it may be important to have Instant Cool Down and Instant Heat Up options if you opt for lead-free solders. You might as well save your money for these.

Tomo

P.S. This is da sh*t.

http://www.goot.co.jp/e/detail.html?id=28&p=1&c=4

6 sec heat up. So every soldering break, you can turn it off. This way, the tip won't roast and get chewed by "activated" lead-free junk.
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post #7 of 20
10/1/06 at 12:59am
Thread Starter 
I did a search for WTCPT and found one for $109. It does seem like a nice station but I think for now I will just go with a WP25. That will get me through the amp and cables I am building and if I start doing a lot more soldering I will get the station. Thanks for the advice guys.


Here is a link to the "quakko" station btw

Link
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post #8 of 20
10/1/06 at 1:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomo
Temperature controls are waaaay overrated. Recovery time is important, but it has nothing to do with temperature control. It has to do with having quality heating elements. Some professional opt for soldering pens like Antex. (Oh those are good, too.)
Can't agree more. I figured that out when first time I tried to battle a ground plane w/o burning the board. Another vote for WTCPT, I perefer that one over WS51. I never tried Hakko though.
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post #9 of 20
10/1/06 at 1:50am
I would personally go with the Hakko.
Spend the money, get the quality. It may even have a placebo effect.
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post #10 of 20
10/1/06 at 5:24am
Hey,

I think Weller WP25 is a nice choice. You guys should think about this. I used Antex soldering pen for years before I got my WCPT used from a professor who was moving out. We should start a thread on good soldering pens. I mean no noob will be willing to part with few hundred smackers for a station.

I have used Hakko stations at Expo (along with Metcal and Goot stations). They have fine electronics. I remember they handled well. I shouldn't trash about them.

In my position, I would go with a pen till the people finally decide what to do with lead-free business. I can decide what to do then.

Tomo

P.S. Hey anyone use Antex pens? They are gooood.

P.P.S. I really envy those of you in US. I am in Japan right now, and people don't deal Weller stuff around here. So I really need a good local replacement which is why I was at the Expo. I still haven't decided. ...
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post #11 of 20
10/1/06 at 10:49am
You can get a Hakko Dash for $30 most anywhere - try outpost.com

I have not used the WP25, but could not find what the heating element listed in it is. The Hakko uses a ceramic heater - one of the best.
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post #12 of 20
10/2/06 at 11:14pm
I know ebay usually isn't always a great idea, but i'd say it would be pretty safe to get a weller wctpc (or whatever order the letters were in, it's gotta be the most confusing model number ever). I just inherited one (or at least the same series) from my grandpa from at least the 1970s. It's still working perfectly! It's a really reliable station; i've read reviews online with similar stories.
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post #13 of 20
10/2/06 at 11:18pm
just ordered a hako 936 station after my radioshack station's tip just cracked open while soldering. Hope I made a good choice.
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post #14 of 20
10/3/06 at 8:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Computerpro3
just ordered a hako 936 station after my radioshack station's tip just cracked open while soldering. Hope I made a good choice.
You are using Lead-Free solder right? I think you roasted your tip too long. Tin (Sn) becomes very reactive when heated up too long. This is precisely why you need to keep your tips clean when you leave your iron for a min. A large fraction of lead-free solder consist of Tin, so you have to be more careful. It is better if you unplug every time you take a minute-off.

This will happen with ALL soldering irons; quality of tip may change the speed of decay, however.

T
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post #15 of 20
10/3/06 at 9:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomo
Temperature controls are waaaay overrated. Recovery time is important, but it has nothing to do with temperature control.
How true. My Weller has a temp control, but I only occasionally use it at less than the max.

Temp control in my use seems to be keep the tip very hot, and regulate the temp via short application time. A fast heating time with a hot iron is in my experience less damaging than along heating time with a cooler iron. The immediate area heats up faster, and further conduction is limited.

You see the Weller vs Hakko threads a lot, but they are both very good. The Hakko clones seem to work fairly well for most people, too, and cost a fair bit less. As Tomo said, just get an iron with fast recovery. Otherwise, you will not be soldering too many cables and tiffany style jacks. A great test for an iron.

I have no troubles with Canare, Cardas, or other plugs and jacks. You will see a lot of threads talking about how Canare jacks are "coated with something". They are not, really, they are just big, and take a lot of heat to solder. If this heat comes on slowly, then the heat is sinking as fast as it is being applied (or faster), and you cannot get a good joint. If you can heat it faster than it can sink out to the surrounding metal, it melts and flows beautifully.
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