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Sennheiser HD650 Impressions Thread - Page 305

post #4561 of 36890

Yeah it won't make as much a difference as the headphones will, but I will say that it's better to have $500 cans and a good amp and DAC behind them then it is to have $1k cans and budget type equipment behind them. Try to keep things balanced.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by upstateguy View Post

Please do not think that an amp or dac will make more of a difference than headphones.

 

 



 

post #4562 of 36890

I listened the the Beyerdynamic T1's for a week. Now back to the Senn HD650. These are better for me. Awesome sound, not too hifi (treblemuch?) like the T1. Keeping these!

post #4563 of 36890

My Sennheiser HD 650 Equalization Guide:

 

Well... this isn't actually an equalization guide, just some screenshots of what I did, which sounds really good to me. I thought I'd post this because there are a bunch of people talking about the HD 650 sounding "dull" or whatever. Also this only works on Windows PCs running "Realtek" onboard sound output unfortunately so different sound cards will vary.

 

First select 24bit / 96khz:

 

Setup1.jpg

 

Do NOT select 192khz. This will force your DAC to revert to lower quality filtering because 192khz is just too much information to process with quality filters due to speed-of-light issues. There should be an article on this on the Science forum if you're interested.

 

Now here's the equalization I use for most songs. This works perfectly for me whenever I have the feeling there's a "veil" of some sort.

 

Setup2.jpg

 

Also if you want to listen to pop music, which of course will be compressed to oblivion (and meant to be played on certain popular headphones today which I will leave un-named), you'll probably want to use something like this basshead.gif

 

Setup3.jpg


Edited by ac500 - 10/16/11 at 5:27pm
post #4564 of 36890
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor991 View Post

Yeah it won't make as much a difference as the headphones will, but I will say that it's better to have $500 cans and a good amp and DAC behind them then it is to have $1k cans and budget type equipment behind them. Try to keep things balanced. 

 


Sorry to disagree. 

 

A $500 headphone is only going to sound like a $500 headphone regardless of what you plug it into. 

 

Not so with a $1K headphone....

 

Even with budget equipment a $1K headphone will sound better than a $500 headphone.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by maarek99 View Post

I listened the the Beyerdynamic T1's for a week. Now back to the Senn HD650. These are better for me. Awesome sound, not too hifi (treblemuch?) like the T1. Keeping these!


Some of the T-1s were overly bright and bass light.  Most of those ended up in the for sale forum.  I had both kinds.  The overly bright one's left driver failed and Beyer replaced the entire headphone for me.  The new ones are not bright or bass light at all.

 

That said, I still like my 650s a lot.

 

post #4565 of 36890

^ But the $1k cans will only sound as good as what's behind them. If there's crappy stuff behind them, they won't sound any better than the $500 cans, possibly worse depending on the equipment.

 

Let's throw some actual setups in this. T1s powered by a Fiio E7 over USB (about $1,100USD). Yulong D100 and Audio gd NFB-12 as an amp with Senn HD650s. Which will sound better? I'd say setup 2. I'm not trying to be rude by arguing, I'm just sayin'. Maybe we need to agree to disagree.

 

post #4566 of 36890

gonna have to agree with Jtaylor on this one. It's the same reasoning I decided to spend 1k on an amp and dac before I spent 1k on a headphone. It's like trying to run a Hummer on a V4 engine biggrin.gif

 

BTW my dac and amp did make a difference on the sound of my headphones. As the saying goes, if you feed your headphones crap, it will spit crap back to you. And Ultrasones are know to be an unforgiving headphone when it comes to the quality of your music. At first I was feeding them through just my Classic and I honestly was not impressed, everything sounded muddy and was a complete mess. Then I added my SR-71b and CLAS to the set up and went balanced all at the same time... Wow...


Edited by krod3003 - 10/16/11 at 10:35pm
post #4567 of 36890

I think a better analogy would be running a Lamborghini on low octane fuel. The "engine" is still there in a high end headphone, it's just not being powered fully. You won't get the full results out of it, but it's sure going to leave a Prius in the dust no matter what fuel it runs on - as long as it runs at all.

post #4568 of 36890

But compairing a Lambo to a Prius is still wrong, because the HD650 is no Prius. More like a Mercedes E-Class to me biggrin.gif

 

Kinda reminds me of this video:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5S1NAMnYKM

 

Its a Smart Car with a Suzuki Hyabusa engine in it VS a Farrari... enjoy


Edited by krod3003 - 10/16/11 at 10:46pm
post #4569 of 36890

What the !!!!!

 

How about LCD2 plugged into your toaster vs HD650 connected to a cats arse .

 

EQ is wrong, it is evil, it is the dark side.

 

Just my opinion.

post #4570 of 36890
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor991 View Post

^ But the $1k cans will only sound as good as what's behind them. If there's crappy stuff behind them, they won't sound any better than the $500 cans, possibly worse depending on the equipment.

 

Let's throw some actual setups in this. T1s powered by a Fiio E7 over USB (about $1,100USD). Yulong D100 and Audio gd NFB-12 as an amp with Senn HD650s. Which will sound better? I'd say setup 2. I'm not trying to be rude by arguing, I'm just sayin'. Maybe we need to agree to disagree.

 



I don't know about a Fiio over usb, but I'll tell you about the 5 days I spent without power after hurricane Irene.  I used my Fuze and a Portaphile connected by a coiled 1m microphone cable that made a great FM radio antenna.  I used my 650s, 880s and mostly my T1s which I think qualifies as a 1K headphone.

 

 I also had occasion to use the Fuze alone after the 9v ran dry on the Portaphile, and never found an occasion to raise the volume up higher than 3/4 with the 600ohm T1s.

 

In every instance the T-1s had an order of magnitude more resolution and sound stage, and a more articulated bass than the other headphones.... just like it did with my GS-1 amp. 

 

The 650s also sounded great, as did the 880s, but even straight out of the Fuze the T-1 was obviously the better headphone.  When the Fuze was amped, the margin widened even further.

 

Does my computer rig with its North Star dac and GS-1 amp sound better than the Fuze or the Fuze with a portable amp?  Of course it does and it can play much louder than I want to listen.  But, during the blackout, the Fuze alone did quite well all by itself and had no trouble driving any of the headphones I mentioned.

 

Just to make sure my recollection was accurate, I fired up the Fuze and am listening with the T1s as I type this.  Did a quick comparo with the 880s (only because they happen to be right near by) and I was back to the T1s in a second.  There is that much difference... even from a Fuze.

 

So headphones first guys.

 

 

 

post #4571 of 36890

Amping is never about loudness; it's about control, transparency, and musicality imo. 

post #4572 of 36890



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SemiAudiophile View Post

Amping is never about loudness; it's about control, transparency, and musicality imo. 


 

Musicality is subjective. Control is measurable. If you dont have enough power, there is a possibility to clip peaks on highly dynamic recordings. By avoiding driver damping problems and other frequency anomalities introduced by high output impedance perceived transparency will be helped too. Some very expensive high end products simply mask the problems of particular headphones. Two wrongs make a ...

 

A good amplifier will get around these issues and doesn't need to cost the world.
 

 

post #4573 of 36890
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaylor991 View Post

Oh yeah, does anyone here have a good recable that is honestly worth the money? I considered the Zu cable for about 5 minutes until I read about the microphonics and how terrible the noise is even from slight movements. Plus, can I get the Zu cable terminated in balanced 4 pin XLR for the Audio-gd NFB-10SE for the 650s? I oughta get one to see if I hear a difference from cables or not.



If your looking the best bang for the buck, try diy cable using Neotech 7N silver hookup wire.  Use four strands for balanced cable.  I am using a balanced 28 gauge Neotech 7N silver, 4 foot length, and the total cost of $60.  Great cable..

post #4574 of 36890

^where do you buy that wire from?

post #4575 of 36890
Quote:
Originally Posted by ac500 View Post

I think a better analogy would be running a Lamborghini on low octane fuel. The "engine" is still there in a high end headphone, it's just not being powered fully. You won't get the full results out of it, but it's sure going to leave a Prius in the dust no matter what fuel it runs on - as long as it runs at all.



A Lamborghini wouldn't run on low octane fuel, no amount of detuning by retarding timing could stop the engine from knocking and being damaged.

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