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Sennheiser HD650 Impressions Thread - Page 1125

post #16861 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by cddc View Post
 

Okay, I might be too naive comparing the components. :biggrin:

 

If the gold blocks are just resistors and Crack has equivalent ones, then I will say there is not much difference.

 

Thank you very much for your opinions.

 

If you do a google image search "270 ohm 5w resistor" you will see both types they do the same thing just transfer the heat generated differently. 

 

Four white cement ones are used in the standard Crack when the speedball upgrade is add two are removed and two large heat sinks are used instead.

 

The gold ones are wire wound but in=cased in alloy to transmit the heat to the case. Crack case is open underneath with vent in the top plate for air circulation. 

 

Here's a pic of a standard Crack and then with speedball note the extra circuitry and the two large black heatsinks which replace the two long white cement resistors shown in the lower half of the first pic.

 

                  

 

 

 

.

post #16862 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by kamenal View Post
 

I was thinking of a portable amp.

Seems like RSA would be a good choice.

I live 15 min from him, so I might stop by tomorrow and take a look.

Thank you for your advice,

A.K.


Don't forget to take your phones with you.  Some feedback from your visit would also be very welcome.

 

Have a good time

post #16863 of 19112

Centrance HiFi M8 looks good, but a bit spendy. In this price range ($600-700)  RSA SR 71B would be my choice.

But I would like to stay under $400.

My source is an iPod Classic 80GB and  an Android LG G2 phone.

Will report after my visit to Ray Samuels.

Thanks.

post #16864 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

If you do a google image search "270 ohm 5w resistor" you will see both types they do the same thing just transfer the heat generated differently. 

 

Four white cement ones are used in the standard Crack when the speedball upgrade is add two are removed and two large heat sinks are used instead.

 

The gold ones are wire wound but in=cased in alloy to transmit the heat to the case. Crack case is open underneath with vent in the top plate for air circulation. 

 

Here's a pic of a standard Crack and then with speedball note the extra circuitry and the two large black heatsinks which replace the two long white cement resistors shown in the lower half of the first pic.

 

                

 

Thanks very much for explaining the resistors and heat vent.

 

BTW, I saw some pictures of your crack with speedball...very neat and nice. Wondering how the holes were cut on the carbon fiber around the vent?

 

I am also quite curious to know how the huge capacitors and the resistor cylinder that you added can improve the Crack with speedball? What do they do?

 

Carbon Fiber

 

Large Capacitors and Resistor Cylinder

post #16865 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by cddc View Post
 

 

Thanks very much for explaining the resistors and heat vent.

 

BTW, I saw some pictures of your crack with speedball...very neat and nice. Wondering how the holes were cut on the carbon fiber around the vent?

 

I am also quite curious to know how the huge capacitors and the resistor cylinder that you added can improve the Crack with speedball? What do they do?

 

Carbon Fiber

 

Large Capacitors and Resistor Cylinder

 

I used a dremel with different attachments to cut out the slots and holes in the carbon using the holes in the alloy top plate which is stuck to it as a guide.

 

The capacitors can have quiet a effect on the sound, generally speaking for this application the higher the quality of capacitor the easier it is for the audio frequencies to pass through with the least amount of degradation to them, hopefully resulting in a truer more detailed sound. The difference is kind off like looking through a clean window compared to a dirty one. You get a clearer sonic picture.

 

The two small capacitors are Valab polypropylene in oil film capacitors 47uf each and the larger one on top is a high quality 10uf RTI Teflon capacitor which is used as a bypass for the two 47uf film ones.  These replace the stock electrolytic coupling capacitors.

 

The resistor cylinder is a 23 stepped attenuator (volume control) simply it again provides a shorter less resistive path for the signal to travel, less resistance means more details get through.

 

There are more details on the mods in the link

 

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5284.0.html


Edited by JamieMcC - 4/13/14 at 5:11pm
post #16866 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

I used a dremel with different attachments to cut out the slots and holes in the carbon using the holes in the alloy top plate which is stuck to it as a guide.

 

The capacitors can have quiet a effect on the sound, generally speaking for this application the higher the quality of capacitor the easier it is for the audio frequencies to pass through with the least amount of degradation to them, hopefully resulting in a truer more detailed sound. The difference is kind off like looking through a clean window compared to a dirty one. You get a clearer sonic picture.

 

The two small capacitors are Valab polypropylene in oil film capacitors 47uf each and the larger one on top is a high quality 10uf RTI Teflon capacitor which is used as a bypass for the two 47uf film ones.  These replace the stock electrolytic coupling capacitors.

 

The resistor cylinder is a 23 stepped attenuator (volume control) simply it again provides a shorter less resistive path for the signal to travel, less resistance means more details get through.

 

There are more details on the mods in the link

 

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,5284.0.html

 

Thank you very much for the introduction of capacitors and stepped attenuator! Checked the link...it was like holy smoke...Fantastic modding! And thanks a lot for sharing.

 

It seems lots of fun modding the Crack with Speedball, not to mention the additional fun from tube rolling. Planning to get one :beyersmile:

post #16867 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post

... simply it again provides a shorter less resistive path for the signal to travel, less resistance means more details get through.

 

?

post #16868 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by connieflyer View Post
 

I would not worry about the essence, it can do a really nice job with the 650's.  I have the stx version , same thing really, and used it with the 650's for two years before upgrading to a Garage 1217 Ember amp last year.  It was a very nice upgrade, I had been looking at outboard dacs, but the specs are not much better uptil you hit close to $8 or $900.00.  The specs on the dac for the essence series is right up there with the better dacs.  Use what you have in the essence until the fever hits you at the same time as your wallet is flush with cash, and then look into an amp.  Check this link for the essence........http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/high-end-pc-audio,review-32894-5.html....the whole article......http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/high-end-pc-audio,review-32894.html.  When I am not using the Ember, I use optical out to a Harman Kardon avr 510 to Electro Voice Sentry V speakers and it sounds really great.  You may need a better amp than what you are using to drive speakers, but the onboard Dac is really quite good.

 

Thanks for your response. I will be using the built in amp of the essence for a long while as i'm spending the entire budget on the HD650. If i decide to upgrade the amp in the future i heard the Matrix M-Stage HPA2 is a very good amp for the price.

post #16869 of 19112

One more question about Crack with speedball - what DAC can unlock the full potential of Crack with SB? 

 

Is Modi enough? Or Uber Bifrost would be much better? Or other recommendations? 

 

Thanks a lot.

post #16870 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmers View Post
 

?

 

Take a look at Rasmus Sørensen crack build blog for a illustrated explanation. 

 

http://diy.koenigs.dk/2014/03/18/stepped-attenuator-legendary-g-e-c-cv-2523-tube/


Edited by JamieMcC - 4/14/14 at 1:06am
post #16871 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

Take a look at Rasmus Sørensen crack build blog for a illustrated explanation. 

 

http://diy.koenigs.dk/2014/03/18/stepped-attenuator-legendary-g-e-c-cv-2523-tube/


What he says is OK, he doesn't say

"... simply it again provides a shorter less resistive path for the signal to travel, less resistance means more details get through."

post #16872 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by cddc View Post
 

One more question about Crack with speedball - what DAC can unlock the full potential of Crack with SB? 

 

Is Modi enough? Or Uber Bifrost would be much better? Or other recommendations? 

 

Thanks a lot.

 

I have the modi and bifrost on my desk currently. Short answer, if you can swing the money get the bifrost. 

post #16873 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post

Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I wet for the Slappa because it's the most similar to my V-Moda case. Of course, £25 here! Thanks everyone.

Good choice.

 

I have one and it fits my HD600's like a glove, is well made and feels like it should offer good protection...although I've not put that aspect to the test much!

post #16874 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by jellofund View Post

Good choice.

I have one and it fits my HD600's like a glove, is well made and feels like it should offer good protection...although I've not put that aspect to the test much!

Yes, it looks the part. Headphones manufacturers would do well to look to V-Moda for its packaged accessories. Second to none.
post #16875 of 19112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post


Yes, it looks the part. Headphones manufacturers would do well to look to V-Moda for its packaged accessories. Second to none.

 

Mine took a tumble down the stairs, and you can't even see signs what a calamity it went through (BTW, my wife is no longer allowed to touch my headphones :rolleyes:)

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