Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › The Melos Modification Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Melos Modification Thread - Page 8

post #106 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahn
The Fall NYC is going to rock.

Does't it Always!
post #107 of 278
Thread Starter 
This is torture waiting for the parts to get here. Absolute torture, especially seeing the November deadline and Nikon's awesome work.
post #108 of 278
Since I took the cover off the melos I did some tuberolling .
Mullard 7308,Amperex PCC88 PW,Amperex 6922 PW. Both Ameperex are Holland made white label.

The Mullard seems to have deeper soundstage,Vocals a little more Holographic(Midrange magic). The Amperex tubes have a little bit better impact on the bass ,a little more upfront sound.
I am using my sony DVD PBD-v30 player as a source cheap interconnect supplied with the player.This may change with My EMM Labs gear,But I have used both in the past & the Mullards Midrange just fits my taste better.

I will bring the Amperexs to the NY meet for some tuberolling.
post #109 of 278
wow, some nice pics!

speaking of modding, i think i need to swap out my pot. So I have to ask, does anyone have the hex wrench necessary to remove the front knobs? If so, can I ask a huge favor: can i borrow it? I will pay shipping both ways, I just need to adjust/remove my vol knob. I think bozebuttons told me that it is 0.05mm, but I can't find them for sale anywhere.

thanks!
post #110 of 278
nananchi:
it is a standard allen key. you can get a cheap set of "l-keys" at sears or home depot for less than shipping.
post #111 of 278
nikongod, what's the name of the stepped attenuator you have in there, that shiny blue one? i did a search on blue alps pot and it didn't look anything like that.

btw i think this is the DACT that's coming in my melos-

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazin...99/dactct1.htm
post #112 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahn
I'm in the zone today.

SHHH! Melos - PROJECT "X"!
Dude, you found the map to the Holy Grail!!

Best,

-Jason
post #113 of 278
i wish it were that easy. ive tried every hex wrench i can get my hands on.
if anyone knows the exact size to use (if it is not .05mm), please let me know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nikongod
nananchi:
it is a standard allen key. you can get a cheap set of "l-keys" at sears or home depot for less than shipping.
post #114 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahn
nikongod, what's the name of the stepped attenuator you have in there, that shiny blue one? i did a search on blue alps pot and it didn't look anything like that.
it is an "ebay brand" stepper.
50k ohm, im not actually sure what brand of resistors it uses.
post #115 of 278
Thread Starter 
Parts are in.

nikon what type of iron are you using. I think I'm going to grab another one, my ratshack 40w station isn't going to cut it apparantly.


edit: Wow, the holes are ridiculously tiny. Will I lose anything by clipping the current caps leads and then soldering the new caps leads directly to those? I don't see how I'm going to get the auricaps leads through the hole.
post #116 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahn
btw i think this is the DACT that's coming in my melos-
Yup. Dat be da one!

Feels like a million bucks when you turn it, btw.
post #117 of 278
Thread Starter 
un-freakin-believeable

I decided to give it a go with the ratshack 40 watter. Got one auricap installed and another capacitor desoldered when BAM, the tip cracked open. This tip is only a few weeks old and had been well taken care of and cleaned. Wonderful. Went to radio shack and picked up a 40w tip for the iron...well, apparantly you need a special tip for the "soldering station" and they don't stock them. These tips are a special order only item.

I just said forget it and ordered a Hakko 936 station. I'm done with crappy tools.
post #118 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by Computerpro3
Parts are in.

nikon what type of iron are you using. I think I'm going to grab another one, my ratshack 40w station isn't going to cut it apparantly.
i personally use an old weller station. i think its the esd2001, but i could be wrong. it is also AGES out of production. i suspect it was current when my amp was actually built. i see below that you are getting a hakko, they get amazing reviews. i plan to get a new one when tips becoime unavailable, and not 1 moment sooner. you dont need much, but that little bit better be good.

something you will like with just about anything but the ratshack iron is that the tips last a LONG time unless you use stupid-high tip temperatures. it is uncomon to ever need a new heater with either a haikko or weller i went through a couple heaters with my ratshack in the few months i tortured myself with that piece of rubbish.

my last tip lasted nearly a year and then went from "very good" to "very bad" in about 1 miniute when i tried setting the iron to max to solder some enameled wire. i generally use a 600* tip temperature.
Quote:
edit: Wow, the holes are ridiculously tiny. Will I lose anything by clipping the current caps leads and then soldering the new caps leads directly to those? I don't see how I'm going to get the auricaps leads through the hole.
you may have to "trim" some of the wire off if they have stranded leeds. my interstage caps have solid 18ga wires, so i jsut soldered them to the pads. most of the holes are through plated.
post #119 of 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpelg
Yup. Dat be da one!

Feels like a million bucks when you turn it, btw.
Excellent! I'm going to add that to my sig!

And Compro3, my goodness - Labour of Love underway! I heard good things about that soldering station tho, so you should recoup your losses by even just making a few cmoys or something, hehe.
post #120 of 278
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikongod
i personally use an old weller station. i think its the esd2001, but i could be wrong. it is also AGES out of production. i suspect it was current when my amp was actually built. i see below that you are getting a hakko, they get amazing reviews. i plan to get a new one when tips becoime unavailable, and not 1 moment sooner. you dont need much, but that little bit better be good.

something you will like with just about anything but the ratshack iron is that the tips last a LONG time unless you use stupid-high tip temperatures. it is uncomon to ever need a new heater with either a haikko or weller i went through a couple heaters with my ratshack in the few months i tortured myself with that piece of rubbish.

my last tip lasted nearly a year and then went from "very good" to "very bad" in about 1 miniute when i tried setting the iron to max to solder some enameled wire. i generally use a 600* tip temperature.
you may have to "trim" some of the wire off if they have stranded leeds. my interstage caps have solid 18ga wires, so i jsut soldered them to the pads. most of the holes are through plated.
Yeah I absolutley can't wait to try out this Hakko, from what everyone was saying it makes a huge difference. I think the feature I'm most looking fowards to is the heat recovery time. The Ratshack iron took 15 seconds plus to recover after tinning a wire and a good 30 seconds after soldering a large cap.

Good call on snipping off the strands. The auricaps were the primary culprit in not fitting through the holes, and the ends come pre-tinned, but if you strip off the insulation and cut the leads down to size, it will be possible to snip off some strands. Didn't even think of that.

I got a killer deal on the Hakko, btw. How do you like $74 brand new?

http://www.emsco-usa.com/hakko/936.htm

Only thing was they didn't let me select shipping. They did say it is in stock and will be shipped "immediately". Guess it's another frustrating wait.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › The Melos Modification Thread