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Darkvoice 336 + 336i Tuberolling [ tubes ] - Page 96

post #1426 of 1497
For the power tubes, start with a 6AS7G. There are posts here about black and gray plate preferences. I'm sure it has to do with component synergy, but they sound the same to me. 5998's sound lush but at a premium price. and sometimes it can sound thin with the wrong driver tube. The Bendix is the only 6080 that really worked well for me. But it's darn expensive. 6AS7G's are the best all-rounder with great bang-for-buck IMO.

For the driver, Raytheon VT-231 worked best.

If you are brave enough to roll, try the 6F8G, 7N7, 6CG7 - all needing adapters though. I settled on the 7N7 way back when I did this.
post #1427 of 1497
Wow, what a difference a tube makes. I now can clearly tell the difference between my ss amps and my 336i. The tube has added the warmth I always expected out of it and now I'm disappointed that I have waited so long. I simply love the new sound.

Now, after a bit more reading, a question has arisen. Is my Chatham 6AS7G simply a rebranded Tung Sol, and would buying a TS5998 be an improvement? Also, is GE 5998a for a power tube any good? Thanks
post #1428 of 1497
Again, Tung-Sol *owned* Chatham for much of Chatham's tube days. So yes, they are likely the same tube.

The GE 5998A is NOT a 5998, really. More like a relabeled 6AS7GA. Not worth more than $10 each IMO.
post #1429 of 1497
So I'm buying my first tube amp (La Figaro 336) soon, and can I take it all the tube rolling stuff in this thread will apply to my amp?

Any "must-get" tubes I should look out for? Will be using with my HD650.
post #1430 of 1497
The most important thing is to replace the stock Chinese tubes with some NOS/Vintage tubes. Even a pretty basic set of RCA 6SN7GTB and 6AS7G, which should cost no more than $30 USD total, will hugely improve the sound over the stock tubes.
post #1431 of 1497
My collection of tubes!

post #1432 of 1497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post
The most important thing is to replace the stock Chinese tubes with some NOS/Vintage tubes. Even a pretty basic set of RCA 6SN7GTB and 6AS7G, which should cost no more than $30 USD total, will hugely improve the sound over the stock tubes.
How does the sound in general change? I was already quiet impressed with the stock tubes.
post #1433 of 1497
It's hard to describe, but the sound will be less grainy, and it will be more transparent while also being prettier.
post #1434 of 1497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post
It's hard to describe, but the sound will be less grainy, and it will be more transparent while also being prettier.
LOL that's a great way of describing the difference!

I wouldn't have had a clue how to put it into words that eloquently.

Which is why you write such great reviews, of course.
post #1435 of 1497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post
If I have it right, 322522-3 is 1952, second week, third shift.
The GTB did not exist before 1954. I would vote for week 22 of 1955.
post #1436 of 1497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oskari View Post
The GTB did not exist before 1954. I would vote for week 22 of 1955.
Right - good point. Tung-Sol seems to use a bunch of different coding schemes.
post #1437 of 1497
Any good recommended sellers?
post #1438 of 1497
Well, I bought the Tung Sol 5998 with the green label to roll with my 336i. It sounds pretty good at high volumes but the hum at low volumes is unbearable with my Syl 6sn7gtb. Used this combo for at least 30 hours and the hum is still just as loud. The TS 5998 tubes were kind of expensive so I really would like them to work. So I'm hoping to get some advice on the "FITZ" mod as I am considering trying it.

I am a finance guy with a soldering gun so I don't really understand all the terminology and parts but I have a simple understanding of it. Apparently I need to buy CATHODE BYPASS CAPACITORS. 100uF is recommended by Fitz, but others have suggesteded 220uF. I hear good ones should be used, but I have no idea what a good one actually is so I'd love some advice. Also, I can't get a low listening volume without one side of the volume cutting out. My understanding is that I would need to replace the volume pot to fix this. Is this a very difficult mod?

And finally, it may be a stupid question, but using a multimeter, how do I check if there are lethal charges remaining in the components.

Thanks for any help.
post #1439 of 1497
@autosound - please do that Fitz mod. you won't regret it. if you need assistance, there may be some local members here who'd be willing to assist. It's not that hard.

The hum WILL go away. Mine is soooo quiet - 5998, 7236, 6AS7G, VT-231, 7N7, 6F8G - you name it. any combo using these always result in NO HUM.
post #1440 of 1497
Quote:
Originally Posted by autosound View Post
Is my Chatham 6AS7G simply a rebranded Tung Sol, and would buying a TS5998 be an improvement? Also, is GE 5998a for a power tube any good? Thanks
forget the 5998A. not worth it. All 5998 tubes (not the 5998A) are made by TS, regardless of brand. Chatham 6AS7G is TS (like Slylab said).

RCA 6AS7G + Raytheon VT-231 will do wonders. Add the Fitz mod to quiet down the hum (if you have any).

Then enjoy the music.
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