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Which power cable are you using with Headfive - Page 2

post #16 of 103
7/12/06 at 9:59pm
Seems to me that if you are concerned about your power, it would be wiser to put that expensive power cable money toward a good power conditioner. Just a thought....
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post #17 of 103
7/12/06 at 10:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueiz
Seems to me that if you are concerned about your power, it would be wiser to put that expensive power cable money toward a good power conditioner. Just a thought....
Don't you see? You have to get an expensive power conditioner, and then still get an expensive power cable, because otherwise the cheap power cable cancels out all the benefits and picks up noise and it'll pour sugar in your gas tank and all sorts of other bad stuff will happen.
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post #18 of 103
7/12/06 at 10:13pm
Here we go again, another thread derailed by people that MUST get everyone else to believe what they believe.

If you are not contributing to the thread, SHUT UP. The question was not if power cords make a difference, but what one you are using on your amp.
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post #19 of 103
7/12/06 at 10:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbloudg20
Here we go again, another thread derailed by people that MUST get everyone else to believe what they believe.

If you are not contributing to the thread, SHUT UP. The question was not if power cords make a difference, but what one you are using on your amp.
I'm using a black one on my amps. And they all have three conductors.

(You aren't contributing either, so you shhh too )
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post #20 of 103
7/12/06 at 10:35pm
Im using volex. For $7 cable, why not? I needed more power cords anyways so I got 6.
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post #21 of 103
7/12/06 at 11:20pm
Thread Starter 
Sheesh, did I open a can of worms or what? This really wasn't a thread to discuss the merits of high-end vs. cheapo power cables. I thought maybe someone was using a cable with the Headfive that provided a certain synergy with certain headphones, interconnects, etc.

I must admit there is some reservation on my part after a certain price point (maybe because I can't afford $1k power cords). BUT, medical grade power cables ARE made to a stricter specification than the ones that are included with a standard run-of-the-mill PC. There is a reason, the need for accuracy when say the power cable is used on a piece of eqpt. that's monitoring heart rates. They don't use the cheap ones because they aren't as reliable. I don't see why that wouldn't carry over to the audio world.
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post #22 of 103
7/13/06 at 12:12am
I did what I always do - I looked in my cable drawer to see what was there. I found an Audioquest power cable that I bought 10 years ago and at one time cut apart so I could get it out of the hole in the rack it was stuck in. I used it to fashion a very short power cable of about 1.5 feet for the H5 since it lives very near the power strip. Works quite well.

I have so many cables in my cable drawer from 20+ years of audiophilia nervosa that I will never every need to buy any.
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post #23 of 103
7/13/06 at 12:36am
I was using a $2750 Nordost Valhalla power cord with my HeadFive.



Actually I bought several Volex 17604's from Carlton-Bates last month and paired it with my HeadFive (while I had it). Those Volex cords are beefy suckers. I have been replacing all of my pc's and home theater equipment with them as well. Basically it comes out to about $8.50 per power cord after shipping.
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post #24 of 103
7/13/06 at 12:44am
I know this isn't power cord related, but I can not tell the slightest of difference between my $220 solid core pure silver interconnect and a stock interconnect that came with a $79 dvd/vhs combo player from best buy. This is on my Woo3 w/ HD650 & Juli@. All lossless FLAC music with ASIO output. Not the slightest difference in sound. I will soon be moving up to a much higher end setup based around the K1000, and I will try one last time to tell a difference. If not, I'm going to save a boatload of money on Acoustic Research interconnects from best buy for $19 each
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post #25 of 103
7/13/06 at 1:21am

What's in a cable?

I'm using the Iron Lung Jellyfish with my H5. Actually, I picked up 2 so I could move the amp back and forth from living room to bedroom quickly.
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post #26 of 103
7/13/06 at 5:29am
DIY Supra Lorad works nicely with Headfive
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post #27 of 103
7/13/06 at 5:56am
Belkin, Office Depot, $9.

The HeadFive sounds great.
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post #28 of 103
7/13/06 at 6:28am
There's plenty of chepo power-cord inside your walls so why would changing the last two feets make a difference? So if you want to be thorough, you'd better start hammering your walls and buy a looooong nordost cable for optimal sound.

Seriously speaking, if you are really worried about the quality of electricity, you should use batteries (e.g car batteries).

Also you guys should keep in mind that you only paid 200€ for the H5 and when you reduce the shipping costs etc. it's even less...
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post #29 of 103
7/13/06 at 9:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Rover
There's plenty of chepo power-cord inside your walls so why would changing the last two feets make a difference? So if you want to be thorough, you'd better start hammering your walls and buy a looooong nordost cable for optimal sound.
Lol, yes. That shoots the argument dead. I guess only a power-conditioner would do anything?


Same as broadband. My phoneline comes in from the telephone pole at the back of my garden. From there it travels to my phone down a huge generic piece of thin white phone cable. So whats the point of adding a really expensive RJ-11 lead to run the last few metres to my router?

Same as the cable running from the aerial in my loft down to the aerial socket for the TV in my mainlounge is probably nothing great.
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post #30 of 103
7/13/06 at 2:05pm
I nicked mine from a kettle.

Ian
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