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Alien DAC v1.1 Construction Thread - Page 60

post #886 of 1560
10/15/07 at 12:13pm
how do i secure the board to the 1455c series casing?

there's plenty of space left in the casing and it slides around.
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post #887 of 1560
10/15/07 at 12:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by iewgnail View Post
how do i secure the board to the 1455c series casing?

there's plenty of space left in the casing and it slides around.
Cut some 1/16" thick card stock, plastic, whatever's handy into a shape that can slide into the remaining slot and take up the space.
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post #888 of 1560
10/15/07 at 7:43pm
I've just finished soldering an Alien that I'm planning to power from my CK²-III's +15V power rail (and an LM317 circuit that reduces that to +7V). When I apply power to the V+ and G2 pads (as instructed), I do not measure the supply voltage between V+ and G2! Even if I connect a 9V battery, the voltage between those two pads is only +1.5V. The voltages at the +3.3V and +5V test points were around 0.85V. Wow, what did I screw up this time?

I've checked for solder bridges, and found nothing on my inspection. I was careful to put the correct parts in the correct pads, and I had the PCM chip pre-soldered when I got the board. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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post #889 of 1560
10/15/07 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodySteve View Post
I've just finished soldering an Alien that I'm planning to power from my CK²-III's +15V power rail (and an LM317 circuit that reduces that to +7V). When I apply power to the V+ and G2 pads (as instructed), I do not measure the supply voltage between V+ and G2! Even if I connect a 9V battery, the voltage between those two pads is only +1.5V. The voltages at the +3.3V and +5V test points were around 0.85V. Wow, what did I screw up this time?

I've checked for solder bridges, and found nothing on my inspection. I was careful to put the correct parts in the correct pads, and I had the PCM chip pre-soldered when I got the board. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
If you're running from a normal 9V battery to AV+ and G2, you should definitely see the 9V between those points, no other voltage is possible. Once you have that, check the +3.3V and +5V to make sure your regulators work. Once you've got the voltages right, connect it to USB and try it out (at least get windows to recognize it and make sure you see 2.5V at each of the outputs before the caps (make sure both channels work).

Just determine that it works by itself first, then move on to powering it from an amp.
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post #890 of 1560
10/15/07 at 9:43pm
I stand by my story.

To corroborate it, when I hook up my bench supply to those two pads, it will NOT advance past 1.5V. So something is seriously wrong. I expect it's the regulator but I can't see any bridges.

This is all in initial testing; I haven't even built the LM317 circuit yet.
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post #891 of 1560
10/16/07 at 10:46am




USB and Output on the back. Led on front for the sleek look. With everything in black.

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post #892 of 1560
10/16/07 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodySteve View Post
I stand by my story.

To corroborate it, when I hook up my bench supply to those two pads, it will NOT advance past 1.5V. So something is seriously wrong. I expect it's the regulator but I can't see any bridges.

This is all in initial testing; I haven't even built the LM317 circuit yet.
Update: As it turns out, the power supply section works much better when the two switch contacts aren't open. One jumper wire later and my power LED came to life. Hopefully all else will go smoothly.
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post #893 of 1560
10/16/07 at 3:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodySteve View Post
Update: As it turns out, the power supply section works much better when the two switch contacts aren't open. One jumper wire later and my power LED came to life. Hopefully all else will go smoothly.
Been there, done that.

Alf should have noted it in big letters on the support web site for us dummies, perhaps.
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post #894 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:16pm
Ok guys, I've just ordered the kit for the AlienDac from GlassJarAudio.

This will be my first (headphone) DIY project, so I was wondering what other parts I'll need (ie parts not in the kit).

I'm guessing case, and connections (USB and 3.5mm jack)? Anything else worth picking up while I wait for the kit to arrive?

Also, I'm hoping to fit this in a Penguin mint tin. Is the PCB small enough?
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post #895 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:22pm
USB comes with the kit. You may need a 3.5mm jack and maybe an LED.

Some wire for the jacks and LED (depending on where you put it). I put my LED and 3.5mm jack in front, USB in back.

I've seen people put it into a mint tin.
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post #896 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeHunt79 View Post
<snip>Also, I'm hoping to fit this in a Penguin mint tin. Is the PCB small enough?
Did someone mention Penguin Mint Tins?

OK, OK, I won't repeat the pics here - Post #770 in this thread.
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post #897 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:37pm
Awesome, I've got 100's of LED's lying around, I may go for a white one to match the colour of the tin. Also, I can get jacks from my local electronics shop, so no problems there.

I assumed because the kit it so cheap (less than £20!) I'd have to buy the DAC chip separately or something like that. I really can't wait now... Hopefully the postman will come sooner rather than later.

EDIT: Cheers for the link tomb, nice pics. I think I'll do the same or similar layout for mine. This thread is huge, and have only read the first few pages so far...

Also, what on earth does BOM mean? Big Orange Man?
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post #898 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:52pm
Bill Of Materials. It's sort of a common Engineering term.
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post #899 of 1560
10/18/07 at 2:57pm
Gotcha - I haven't been here that long, and am still getting to grips with some of the lingo.
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post #900 of 1560
10/18/07 at 4:56pm

help!

hi guys, my alien kit is in my hands, i tought to have a pcm2702 at home...but i only have a pcm2902 and pcm2705!can i use one of these instead of the 2702?
thanx a lot!
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