just built oneI just ordered and built my kit from glassjaraudio.com. After much eye-straining and trial and error i got it working, sounds better then my creative EMU10k. The bass is REALLY tight, its like going from a crappy 15" sub in a sentra trunk to a nice tight 8". The highs sound the same to me, except for the fact that I'm discovering things in my music I've never heard before. Kinda like "oh wow, there is a whistle in this song!". Also Portishead is listenable without the "OMG my head is going to split" effect! The kit i ordered came with the Elna Silmic II(sp?) caps. Didn't try any others.
Here is a little advice that i found sprinkled throughout this thread (and a little of my own.)
1. Install the 3.3v and 5v regulators and associated resistors and caps FIRST. Then test them, make sure you get the expected voltage levels out at both test points. If you have a bridge on the ssop28 it will most likely drag one of these rails down and you won't know if its a regulator or ssop28 problem.
2. Flood and suck worked great, BUT you seem to get alot of bridges BEHIND the pins. Put the board ontop of a BRIGHT flashlight (i found a 5led white flashlight to work best) and look at it with some sort of magnification. Your just not going to see it with the naked eye. I have a astigmatism that allows me to take off my glasses and shove things an inch from my eye and focus on them, and even then i was unable to see some bridges.
I also found it IMPOSSIBLE to move the iron out and sucker into place. I had much better luck using the iron and sucker together, its a squeeze but can be done.
3. The left side (usb connector side) of the ssop28 is the "digital" side, it uses the 3.3v regulator. If your 3.3v test point stops showing 3.3v this is your problem. This will also usually make your dac not show up correctly when plugged into your PC's usb port. The usb data connections are also here.
4. The right side of the ssop28 is the "analog" side, it uses the 5v supply. If your 5v test point isn't 5v, look for bridges here. Also if you dac is SUPER quiet (you have to blast your amp and volume settings) or the output sounds like crap you prob have a bridge here also.
5. Solder in a loop of wire to S1 so you can externally power the DAC easily (with a current limited power supply! My DAC pulls .03amps idle, when i had a bridge i had limited the power supply to .1amps which is NICE, no POOF!). Also insert loops of wire (cap cutoffs work good) for the 5v and 3v test points. Now you can power and more importantly clip your multilmeter onto these points. The USB connector itself makes a good ground point.
I know everyone always wants a pic, but i had to almost completely disassemble my DACs right side. It was SOO pretty the first time i put it together, but alas it didn't work (5v short). I'm currently burning it in at work with my PPAv2 before i case it, here is a shot of it, its IN the final case, just needs a little rear panel work (its rear facing in pic)