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Alien DAC v1.1 Construction Thread - Page 91

post #1351 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamess71 View Post
No experience with external dacs. I'm wondering would there be improvement using the Alien Dac with my Oppo over using the analog out of my Oppo 980? I still have a bijou build in queue but I'm getting curious about dacs.

James
I am not sure how you would connect the Alien to the Oppo. I am not very knowledgeable with this dvd player but the Alien is designed to take an input over USB. It is also designed for output in stereo not multiple channels. I don't think this is what you are looking for. The Alien is designed to be used with a computer of sometype. Think of it more as an external sound card.

If you are looking to improve the sound in this dvd player I ran across this article the other day.
Modding the Oppo 980 for better audio output - Hack a Day
post #1352 of 1560
Sorry for the double post

I just got all my parts and am starting to build the DAC. I am still confused about IC3 though. I want to build a version that plugs directly into my USB port and is powered from USB. So do I need to populate IC3?
post #1353 of 1560
It will work without it, but usb provides you with 5vdc unregulated power.
For regulated power from your usb-bus, you will need to use an adjustable regulator, and set it to output around 4.5v
post #1354 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL View Post
It will work without it, but usb provides you with 5vdc unregulated power.
For regulated power from your usb-bus, you will need to use an adjustable regulator, and set it to output around 4.5v
Ok So i put in the chip named BBREG101UA0049 Now what do I do with the following?

* If you use an adjustable regulator IC3, populate the C32 and R31 positions on the bottom side and R32 on the top side.
* If you use a fixed regulator IC3, put C32 on the top side in the position that ambiguously says R32/C32. Do not populate R31 and R32.
* If you do not populate IC3, then there is no need for C32, R31, and R32.

I am thinking the first option?
post #1355 of 1560
I don't know if that's a adjustable chip or not.. burrbrown, 0049's probably a date code, but both share the same reg101ua prefix.

If it is adjustable, you would use option one. Else, you would leave it out and use option 3 instead..


That said, does anybody know where I can source some REG101UA-A's, or any alternative substitutes? I have two boards that I want to populate but can't find the reg101's anywhere.
post #1356 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidretro View Post
Ok So i put in the chip named BBREG101UA0049 Now what do I do with the following?

* If you use an adjustable regulator IC3, populate the C32 and R31 positions on the bottom side and R32 on the top side.
* If you use a fixed regulator IC3, put C32 on the top side in the position that ambiguously says R32/C32. Do not populate R31 and R32.
* If you do not populate IC3, then there is no need for C32, R31, and R32.

I am thinking the first option?
That's what Jeff (Glassjaraudio) shipped with my kit and I confirmed with him that it was an adjustable regulator, so yes, use the first option. Seems to be working fine.

Scott
post #1357 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by srserl View Post
That's what Jeff (Glassjaraudio) shipped with my kit and I confirmed with him that it was an adjustable regulator, so yes, use the first option. Seems to be working fine.

Scott
Thanks I have a glassjar audio kit too. Now another question about his kits. I have parts that are labeled C##,Just a few L##, and then just ##. Can I safely assume the just ## parts are R? as noted on the circuit board?
post #1358 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidretro View Post
Thanks I have a glassjar audio kit too. Now another question about his kits. I have parts that are labeled C##,Just a few L##, and then just ##. Can I safely assume the just ## parts are R? as noted on the circuit board?
Although you probably could assume that the ## parts are Rs. I'd still keep an eye open. If you have the parts list in front of you, you could pretty easily deduct what's what. Most of the Resistors look the same, as is the case with the caps and inductors. All the inductors actually are the same, and probably come in a single strip. The SMD caps are lighter IIRC. The resistors are all black, and are marked... etc etc..
post #1359 of 1560
I don't remember having any parts not fully labeled, but yes, the resistors were dark colored and the caps were beige.

Scott
post #1360 of 1560
Ok I got the circuit board all populated and now I am moving on to the testing phase. I built the version where IC3 is populated and I plan on plugging it into the usb for power. The driections say to connect a battery and check the 5V and 3V pads. What size of battery do I connect and where?

Edit I found my answer in a previous post. NVM
post #1361 of 1560
Does anybody know if I could leave out C31? It looks as if it is just a filter capacitor for the regulator. It went flying out of the tweezers.
post #1362 of 1560
You can leave it out and the DAC should work okay, but I'd still replace it when you get an opportunity.
post #1363 of 1560
thanks, error401. I'll work on getting one. The Glass Jar kit listed it as coming from Mouser and it is not as easy as ordering from DigiKey for Canada.
post #1364 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobaltmute View Post
thanks, error401. I'll work on getting one. The Glass Jar kit listed it as coming from Mouser and it is not as easy as ordering from DigiKey for Canada.
Are you kidding me!?

Digikey.ca
post #1365 of 1560
Quote:
Originally Posted by FallenAngel View Post
Are you kidding me!?

Digikey.ca
I think he meant that Mouser is more difficult to order from in Canada, which is true.

See if you've got a local electronics shop. Though many of them don't really carry any SMD stuff, that part is about as generic as they come and it might be the one thing they actually have.

Otherwise substitute DigiKey # 478-3352-1-ND, it's the same part.
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