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Grado driver mod? - Page 5

post #61 of 111
It would be really beneficial for people who are noobs at this (ie. me) if someone could post pics to show where to heat the cans and where to try and pry/pull.

I want to do this to my 225's (Have to check if my RS-2's have the blob)
post #62 of 111
Hmmm, when I get my 225's (first headphones) I may try this mod. I just want to know if it's really beneficial to a person like me who is used to apple earbuds... Also, is it easy?
post #63 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bojamijams View Post
It would be really beneficial for people who are noobs at this (ie. me) if someone could post pics to show where to heat the cans and where to try and pry/pull.

I want to do this to my 225's (Have to check if my RS-2's have the blob)
See post #40 in this thread. No pics, but self-explanatory.
Your RS-2 has the blob. Use that to gauge how much material to use during your self-mod.
post #64 of 111
Yeah noticed the black blob last night. Was happy that I didn't have to do that one too

Thanks for the pointer kontai69 .. will do these as soon as I get my hands on dynamat
post #65 of 111
I used dum dum sealing compound to blob-mod my MS2is:



Driver out - 8074 is scratched on the back of the drivers.



Not all MS2i drivers are the same - these drivers were fitted by Grado 7 months ago to replace the original drivers (3 years from new and all Grattled-out lol) and are noticeably darker in tone and smoother of refinement than the originals. The original drivers had the nickel plate finish.
I noticed a 2 y/o MS2i in the FS forum recently that had this black driver with the 180% silver mark around the rear face, all the others I have seen photographed have the nickel drivers.

The mod:



Edit for more impressions: I've come back to this as my head cold is wearing off and I'm hearing stuff I didn't notice before.
Subjectively they sound noticeably quieter/less sensitive than before, a sure sign of improved resonance control. They certainly sound more neutral than before - which exposes more detail - and weirdly the bass sounds even heavier despite being more controlled in the upper registers. The bass "overhang" has been cleaned up very nicely; stock they tended to carry a little too much energy around the waist on occasion - not a bloat but more of a too-much-air-is-moving sensation.

Source: ALAC/iTunes/usb asio.de/Headroom Micro DAC/PF modded X-Can V2.

For background; whilst these were being repaired I ordered up both MS-1s (for the MS-1000 modding project) and MS-Pros: once these got back and got burned in I sold the MS-Pros as (with the exception of my vinyl rig which I hardly ever listen to on headphones but sounded magic with the MS-Pros) I prefer the sound of these MS2is.
post #66 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by allenf View Post
I used dum dum sealing compound to blob-mod my MS2is:
Cool stuff. I would guess that is closer to what Grado uses, which appears (only guessing!) to be a gel that hardens to a solid (something like black caulk). In the end, it probably won't make much difference what you use.


Quote:
Originally Posted by allenf View Post
The original drivers had the nickel plate finish.
I noticed a 2 y/o MS2i in the FS forum recently that had this black driver with the 180% silver mark around the rear face, all the others I have seen photographed have the nickel driver
I think all Grado drivers are "nickel" plated, just some of them are painted black and some are not. The black paint flakes off very easily.
Yeah, I noticed differences too. I bought a new MS1 a couple of years ago which the drivers were also unpainted (with a red painted dot). All my other Grados and Alesandros I've own(ed) were painted black.
All this must be some top secret internal coding they are using at Grado to keep track of which drivers go into which cans.
post #67 of 111
this has probably been asked a few times but i cant seem to find a definite answer...
any help or link to my answer will be appreciated... please ignore my ignorance...

has it been confirmed which grado models share the same drivers? 60/80s? 125/225/325?
or has it yet to become public knowledge and one of lifes greatest mysteries....

thanks
post #68 of 111
as far as i know each headphone has different numbers on the drivers - mine have 325i typed on them (haven't checked my 80's),so at least grado aren't randomly mixing and matching drivers.
post #69 of 111
any experience with this mod on the MS-1?
post #70 of 111
I've been thinking about doing this mod, if I use dynamat extreme I need to buy adhesive to glue it to the back of the transducers? Has anyone tried using playdough
post #71 of 111
Any opinions on how silicone or latex caulk would work for this mod? I would think it would serve the same purpose, just squeeze a bit out on the back of the driver, and spread out with a finger or tool.
post #72 of 111
I dont think it matters too much what you put on the drivers, but you also dont want something that will deteriorate the drivers either.
post #73 of 111
I'm considering dampening the driver on my SR80i. Can anyone verify that this would cause a positive change in the sound? One poster earlier said that this made his SR80 sound worse...
post #74 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by kite7 View Post
I've been thinking about doing this mod, if I use dynamat extreme I need to buy adhesive to glue it to the back of the transducers? Has anyone tried using playdough
Dynamat Xtreme itself is extremely sticky so no additional adhesive is needed.
Playdough would fall off and crumble once dry.
post #75 of 111
So on the topic of grado mods,

What if you took something along the lines of a SR-60, 80, or maybe even a MS1, made a full aluminum cup for it with no mesh at all (just a hole there) and put some tar or whatever on the back of the driver?
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