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best tube for the Stax SRM T1?? - Page 3

post #31 of 42
Might want to try a Headamp KGSS for those Omegas. $1,500 or so and they mate magnificent with Omega ones and twos. That combo is super fast and clear...plenty of voltage swing to energize the phones. Nice step up and you will know it!
Dan
post #32 of 42
If you want tubes for Stax amps using the 6FQ7/6CG7, try this eBay seller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/88x-Tube-6FQ7-6C...QQcmdZViewItem

The Raytheon 6FQ7 is Japanese made, and appears to be Toshiba manufacture. This tube is the standout in my SRM-007t, and has a more natural sound that any of the "premium" NOS I tried (GE, RCA cleartop, Mazda-Brimar, Sylvania, Tung Sol, etc.). Price is extremely cheap for a NOS tube ($5.80 ea). I don't think all that many people know about these (at least not until I posted this). Since SRM-T1 only uses two tubes, the same seller has several auctions going on eBay for pairs that are priced even lower to start that might be useful. I have bought from this seller in the past, and his tubes have always been exactly as advertised. I have no affiliation with the seller or the auction except as a customer.

I don't know how to bias the SRM-T1, but you will need well-matched tubes to bias an SRM-007t.
post #33 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Gilmore
There are 2 pots per channel.


One of them is the differential pot, and you
put a voltmeter between The two output pins
and adjust for zero. I believe this pot is labeled TVR1
For left channel voltmeter goes between yellow and green
for right channel it is white and red

The other is the dc offset pot, you put a voltmeter
on either output pin and ground and adjust for zero.
I believe this pot is labeled TVR2. For left channel voltmeter
goes between yellow and ground, for right channel it is
white and ground.

You have to do this a number of times, and new tubes
drift like crazy.
These are the instructions Kevin gave here a long time ago. You have to take a voltmeter and put the probes on + and - on an output jack and adjust TVR1. When it is hovering close to 0v you take the - probe and connect it to ground on the amp (i.e. the case) and adjust TVR2 to 0v. See the pic for the pinout

post #34 of 42
Thread Starter 

Thanks for tips guys........

Dan, thanks for the suggestion...what about the Gilmore amp with the Blue Hawaii output tubes?

Hirsch, thanks for the tip...will prob get a couple to try...and I have no idea how to bias my SRM t1.....Spritzer, are those directions for biasing a t1?
post #35 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stax-i-nox
Dan, thanks for the suggestion...what about the Gilmore amp with the Blue Hawaii output tubes?
The Blue Hawaii is a really hard amp to make, so most people who used to make them have stopped doing so. Kevin Gilmore is coming out with a new hybrid amplifier soonish (I believe called the KGST) to replace it, but it's anyone's guess when it'll be finished.

Of course, there are second hand KGBH's to be had from time to time.

Quote:
Spritzer, are those directions for biasing a t1?
T1 or 6t. They're more or less the same thing.

If you bias it yourself, be careful of the high voltages inside.
post #36 of 42
Yes those are the directions for the T1 and all amps based on it. If you need any help PM me.

The Blue Hawaii is one hell of an amp and it transforms the Omega II's and makes them the best headphone I've ever heard
post #37 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl
Kevin Gilmore is coming out with a new hybrid amplifier soonish (I believe called the KGST) to replace it, but it's anyone's guess when it'll be finished.
If I'm not mistaken, the KGST design has been finished for some time. It's just a matter of someone actually making them available for purchase, as Kevin Gilmore does not make amps for sales. It probably doesn't help that the market for an electrostatic amplifier is rather small.
post #38 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirsch
If you want tubes for Stax amps using the 6FQ7/6CG7, try this eBay seller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/88x-Tube-6FQ7-6C...QQcmdZViewItem

The Raytheon 6FQ7 is Japanese made, and appears to be Toshiba manufacture. This tube is the standout in my SRM-007t, and has a more natural sound that any of the "premium" NOS I tried (GE, RCA cleartop, Mazda-Brimar, Sylvania, Tung Sol, etc.). Price is extremely cheap for a NOS tube ($5.80 ea). I don't think all that many people know about these (at least not until I posted this). Since SRM-T1 only uses two tubes, the same seller has several auctions going on eBay for pairs that are priced even lower to start that might be useful. I have bought from this seller in the past, and his tubes have always been exactly as advertised. I have no affiliation with the seller or the auction except as a customer.

I don't know how to bias the SRM-T1, but you will need well-matched tubes to bias an SRM-007t.
Have you tried RCA black plate TRUE 6CG7 (not 6CG7 / 6FQ7) with an internal shield?
post #39 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by a529612
Have you tried RCA black plate TRUE 6CG7 (not 6CG7 / 6FQ7) with an internal shield?
Yep.
post #40 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salt Peanuts
If I'm not mistaken, the KGST design has been finished for some time. It's just a matter of someone actually making them available for purchase, as Kevin Gilmore does not make amps for sales. It probably doesn't help that the market for an electrostatic amplifier is rather small.
Interesting.

Any budding DIYers feel like asking Kevin for the schemantic and giving it a go?
post #41 of 42
Biasing 007T? Retubing? Differences between 007MKII?
post #42 of 42

Hi Hirsh

I just read your views re Raytheon tubes for Stax T1 which you posted a few years ago. i am tossing between toshiba NOS at $50 a matched pair n mazda by Brimar at twice the cost.

From your experience between the two ,can you pease give me a brief run down on their sound characterstics? I like a mesty sound yet open n good top end clarity. Many thanks.

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