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Preparing for Latest Tweaks, Part Deux: Ferrites - Page 2

post #16 of 28
9/30/01 at 1:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by morphsci
BTW, looks like I will be buying a custom BPT transformer also. It will be two BP Jrs in a bigger case. I am very impressed with BPT and their willingness to make sure you have the exact product you need.
Oh, man, I never even considered such a configuration! Now that would have worked for me too (and probably would have cost a little less)!

So let me get this straight -- you ordered a bigger chassis (not the smaller BP-jr chassis) with two 300VA balanced transformers inside instead of one 300VA and one 1000VA transformer? If so, that's very cool. That would probably be the best bang-for-the-buck configuration for a dedicated headphone rig. I didn't even think about that. Do I have your configuration right?

Quote:
Originally posted by Hamsta
Cheers for the ridiculously rapid reply, Jude.

Can't say I have any unused Ethernet PC Card dongles lying around, whatever the heck they are ! I'm guessing the nice guys at Surplustronics may be able to help me out on that one too.
Hamsta,

Unless you want to put the ferrites on a headphone cord, I'd probably recommend a bigger ferrite with the looping first (since it sounds like you're using it for a thinner wallwart cord). Of course, if you're going to use it on a headphone cord (I have two little ones on each of my home headphone cords), then finding the little ones would be worthwhile.

Quote:
Originally posted by Serow
Raymondlin, whenever there is current flowing through a wire, there must be a corresponding magnetic field created around the wire. The ferrites act as filter, presenting a resistance to the high frequency magnetic fields only.
What Serow said.

raymondlin, before I purchased the Brick Wall, I did use several ferrites for noise suppression (suppressing noise from my refrigerator and sump pump primarily) by placing ferrites on the power cords of my offending equipment, as well as my headphone rig.

I mention it in the following post:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...id=317#post317
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post #17 of 28
9/30/01 at 5:41pm
Quote:
Originally posted by jude


Oh, man, I never even considered such a configuration! Now that would have worked for me too (and probably would have cost a little less)!

So let me get this straight -- you ordered a bigger chassis (not the smaller BP-jr chassis) with two 300VA balanced transformers inside instead of one 300VA and one 1000VA transformer? If so, that's very cool. That would probably be the best bang-for-the-buck configuration for a dedicated headphone rig. I didn't even think about that. Do I have your configuration right?
That's the configuration. I cannot really take credit for it. My original email asked if they could simply add another set of outlets to a BP Jr signature. Because they outsource the case fabrication Chris suggested putting two 300 VA transformers in a BP-2 case and then have four outlets on each, seperately filtered, with the 10 ga power cord, upgraded capacitors, damping and brass feet. That sounded like a perfect system for me so I think I am going to go ahead with it. I am little concerned that I will lose surge protection when I do this, so I may ask about the optional surge protection. But I may just want to get one of the high current 2 outlet brick walls in the future. Decisions, decisions...
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post #18 of 28
9/30/01 at 5:54pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by morphsci
I am little concerned that I will lose surge protection when I do this, so I may ask about the optional surge protection. But I may just want to get one of the high current 2 outlet brick walls in the future. Decisions, decisions...
morphsci,

Since you'll have the BPT unit anyway, you may be interested in reading this post I made yesterday: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...7466#post27466

In short, I found (in my rig) that the Brick Wall alone sounds better than an Isotel alone or plugging my stuff directly into the wall. However, when I put the BPT in the rig, there seemed to be no audible advantage to using the Brick Wall over the wall or the Isotel. I can't really explain why this is, but if it turned out to be generally true for others, than you could save yourself the money and get something like an Isotel or Isobar for surge protection -- I like this over internal metal oxide varistors (MOV) with the BPT, as it's easier to replace the surge protection if it's external and it takes a hit. Of course, if you're still interested in the MOV-less surge protection that meets the highest UL standards for surge protection, then keep the Brick Wall in mind.

Again, morphsci, that's an excellent configuration! Part of me (my wallet) makes me wish I would have thought of that!
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post #19 of 28
9/30/01 at 9:39pm
Quote:
Originally posted by morphsci



BTW, looks like I will be buying a custom BPT transformer also. It will be two BP Jrs in a bigger case. I am very impressed with BPT and their willingness to make sure you have the exact product you need.
How much did you get quoted? I was about to try one or two BP JR.(s) for my CD/HeadAmp rig myself.
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post #20 of 28
10/1/01 at 11:31am
The unit I will be buying is basically two BP Jr signatures in a single case with four pairs of outlets. So it has the upgraded capacitors, damping, isolation feet and their 10 gauge power cord. The price I was quoted as a Head-Fi'er was $399. Based on the cost of some other units such as the equi=tech, this seems very reasonable to me. Plus, Chris at BPT is extremely helpful, something I all too rarely see when trying to purchase audio gear. Maybe if enough of us buy BPT units Jude will open a separate forum for us
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post #21 of 28
10/1/01 at 1:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by morphsci
The unit I will be buying is basically two BP Jr signatures in a single case with four pairs of outlets. So it has the upgraded capacitors, damping, isolation feet and their 10 gauge power cord. The price I was quoted as a Head-Fi'er was $399. Based on the cost of some other units such as the equi=tech, this seems very reasonable to me. Plus, Chris at BPT is extremely helpful, something I all too rarely see when trying to purchase audio gear. Maybe if enough of us buy BPT units Jude will open a separate forum for us
Wow. I sorta wish now I would've gone that route -- much more affordable than my BP-3. My BP-3 would be fantastic if I was plugging in more than the two components (SCD-C333ES and HeadRoom Max) into it, but I don't anticipate that I'll ever plug more than that into it. I pretty much spec'd my unit myself, but if I ever order another BPT unit, I'll just tell Chris what I'm plugging into it and let him spec it like you did, morphsci.

Other than the Audio Power Industries (API) units, I don't think you'll find a multiple balanced power transformer unit; and the API units are generally quite a bit more expensive, and have more (but smaller -- typically 120 watt or 150 watt) balanced power transformers.
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post #22 of 28
10/1/01 at 2:40pm
I need to put a lock on these forums. Now I want the Cyber-20 and the BP Jr. I will wait to see what others say on the BPT.

jude= a mental condition characterized by an eternal tweaking frenzy.
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post #23 of 28
10/14/01 at 10:35am
audiophiles know that those ferrites work well on power cords and please do feel free to attenuate rfi with them, however they have deleterious effects on interconnects and will in fact, close down the soundstage, removing ambience and details that help recreate the recording venue. this is especially easy to hear on your hifi rig but perhaps may not be a big deal with pc based sources.

indeed, the pc may be so noisy that an improvement is realized with the signal's integrity. my experience is however to keep them off non-power related cords and wires, since i want to make sure my 3d sound card's performance in games, and surround & fidelity in ac-3 +/or dts movies (we watch them late at night on pc rather than the full home theater sys) won't be even theorectically affected. i use the huge ferrite clamps on select power bundles, outlets and round ide cables inside the pc and feel this helps overall signal to noise ratio.

you are best judge as whether you like them on interconnects but ...

be SURE you take them ALL off after a week of using them. if your music all of sudden is more organic and rich, then get rid of them permanently.

oh, and SOME audiophiles feel if ferrites make a difference, then you rig desperately needs cord and component upgrades
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post #24 of 28
10/14/01 at 12:17pm
Quote:
audiophiles know that those ferrites work well on power cords and please do feel free to attenuate rfi with them, however they have deleterious effects on interconnects and will in fact, close down the soundstage, removing ambience and details that help recreate the recording venue. this is especially easy to hear on your hifi rig
Ferrites placed around interconnects should not have any effect on the desired signal passing through the cables. This especially makes sense in the case of shielded cables if you think about it, but it also applies to unshielded pairs as well since ferrites work based on the net current passing through them. A ferrite clamp placed around an interconnect will "see" a net signal current of zero since the signal currents in the two conductors of the interconnect will be equal and in opposite directions.

Audiophiles who hear a "closed-down soundstage" and loss of ambience and details from using ferrites on their interconnects may in fact be hearing a reduction in RFI.
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post #25 of 28
10/14/01 at 12:38pm
Where can one get Ferrite clamps on the net? preferably ship internationally.
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post #26 of 28
10/15/01 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally posted by raymondlin
Where can one get Ferrite clamps on the net? preferably ship internationally.
CR@P! Sorry Raymond, I got busy and completely forgot about those frigging things!

The small clamps I got have a internal diameter of 9mm, while the larger ones have a diameter of 13mm. I found the 9mm ones fitted most things. The price ended up being NZ$2.50 (75p) each, whichever size you got. Sorry, I don't know about the weight, but they are pretty heavy little suckers beinf solid iron. I'm guessing the cost of international postage would easily be a lot more than the cost of the items themselves. I can get 'em weighed, but I don't honestly know if it'd make them so cheap anymore. Maybe try a local electronics store to find a good surplus store or wholesaler in the UK. Surely Maplins must have 'em.

Sorry again. Please feel free to drop me an e-mail and abuse the heck out of me.

Hamsta
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post #27 of 28
10/15/01 at 9:29am
Quote:
Originally posted by raymondlin
Where can one get Ferrite clamps on the net? preferably ship internationally.
I use the clamp on ferrites from Digikey. Right now I have three sizes. (Inside diam, impedance at 100MHz, cost per 10)

5.30 mm, 131 Ohms, $7.23
9.02 mm, 199 Ohms, $15.76
13.0 mm, 234 Ohms, $33.02

They have some others also listed on page 455 of their catalog. I find the middle size the most useful. The smallest ones work well on wall wart type power cords and the big ones on beefy power cords.
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post #28 of 28
10/15/01 at 5:18pm
Hamsta, if you can find out how much it'll cost to ship 5 9mm ones and 3 the next size up. It'll be great. I have found some ferrite Rings at the maplins website, but they are not a clamp, they are a ring so it doesn't really clamp onto anything. Useless for me, if the the total for the whole thing inc shipping comes under £20 then I would love to get some. Let me know when you finds out. cheers.
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