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Zhaolu 2.0 ARRIVED!!! IMPRESSION INSIDE! - Page 50

post #736 of 858

Mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by adhoc
AD712
AD746
AD823
AD8066 (with soic-to-dip browndog)
All four are pin-compatible with the 2604/2107. The 8066 is the only one that would require you to lower the supply to +-12V (max). I'd adjust it to +-10V before plugging the 8066 devices in the sockets.
There are differences between the devices, which would probably result in sonic differences. The 712 has a very low gain, which might cause a problem with treble roll-off. The 8066 is a very high-gain opamp, which could oscillate... It's probably safe in this circuit.
Quote:
Also, if I were to wire up a couple of E-Is to give independent power supplies to the various rectifers, what would you recommend I target?
The analog voltage of the receiver and DAC. You will have to cut traces in order to isolate these circuits, so it's not for the faint of heart!
Quote:
Also, how would I mod the ZL to set it to 'coaxial' by default permanently?
bridge the on-board switch marked 'coax'.
Quote:
Plus, any suggestions for replacements for the rather seedy looking rectifiers?
Four slow recovery diodes... The circuit may still "ring" and you'll have to use a scope to identify the optimal snubber solution. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.
post #737 of 858
Thanks Ori for the replies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
All four are pin-compatible with the 2604/2107. The 8066 is the only one that would require you to lower the supply to +-12V (max). I'd adjust it to +-10V before plugging the 8066 devices in the sockets.
And I would adjust this through the 2 blue trimpots on the board? V would be measured off the relevant opamp leg sockets, no?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
The analog voltage of the receiver and DAC. You will have to cut traces in order to isolate these circuits, so it's not for the faint of heart!
A challenge I rise to easily. Where would I cut these traces? Will a big manly exacto-knife do? Also, what ratings should I get for the toroidals? 15V? 18V?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
Four slow recovery diodes... The circuit may still "ring" and you'll have to use a scope to identify the optimal snubber solution. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle.
I'm curious about the use of the word 'still' in your above sentence. Does the ZL ring in it's stock state? I will consult some EE friends about the appropriate sunbber values in my case then. My impression was that soft-recovery types would reduces high-frequency switching noises and thus reduce ringing.
post #738 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by aco
DY2000's are supposed to be rebranded AD's afaik, maybe this is DY2000 and that no. is what they were rebranded from.
**Possible info on the mysterious DY2000**

I did some research a while back and even called and talked to an AD technician. While I could not find a definitive answer, because the Analog Devices logo is clearly on the metal version (which I have and am assuming the ceramic version has it to??) it is clearly made by them. The AD technician believes it is a special made opamp for either their Philippine aviation industry or military and when special parts are made for industries or companies like this information on the part are kept private. On my metal version the number 8063 is imprinted on it and I am wondering if maybe it's basically a special made DUAL channel version, in DIP-8 package, of the single channel AD8063 that's widely available. FYI - the AD8063 comes in SOIC or SOT packages.

The DY2000 is no doubt made by Analog Devices.
The DY2000 likely is a specially made part for the Philippine military or aviation industry.
The DY2000 might be a dual DIP-8 version of the AD8063.
post #739 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean H
The DY2000 might be a dual DIP-8 version of the AD8063.
Very unlikely. According to its spec, the AD8063 will "fry" at +-16V. But you are right about the manufacturer. The AD symbol is clearly stamped on the ceramic version too.
post #740 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by adhoc
And I would adjust this through the 2 blue trimpots on the board? V would be measured off the relevant opamp leg sockets, no?
Correct. Reference these voltages to the circuit ground.
Quote:
A challenge I rise to easily. Where would I cut these traces? Will a big manly exacto-knife do? Also, what ratings should I get for the toroidals? 15V? 18V?
Exacto knife will do the job... The trannies should be rated 8-9VAC.
Quote:
My impression was that soft-recovery types would reduces high-frequency switching noises and thus reduce ringing.
They do, but it's not a sure thing. You still have to check the final circuit. In the end, the diodes do cut on and off into an inductive circuit.
post #741 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
Very unlikely. According to its spec, the AD8063 will "fry" at +-16V. But you are right about the manufacturer. The AD symbol is clearly stamped on the ceramic version too.
I noticed the power limits of the 8063 too, when checking for a datasheet.
So what else could those numbers mean?
The DY2000 is a big riddle...
post #742 of 858
OPA627 (with soic-to-dip browndog)

So do 627s safe to use in D2?
Planning to use it...

Can any 1 please show some pics how the browndog with 2 single channel OPAs should be place in D2? (Scare fry them if place in the wrong direction)

Thx alot...
post #743 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
Very unlikely. According to its spec, the AD8063 will "fry" at +-16V. But you are right about the manufacturer. The AD symbol is clearly stamped on the ceramic version too.
Ah, shoot, damn. Well, I'm trying here. I gave the the tech guy all the markings on my metal version but he couldn't find anything and said if it definitely has the AD logo then it's likely a private/special item they made.
post #744 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ori
Correct. Reference these voltages to the circuit ground.
Exacto knife will do the job... The trannies should be rated 8-9VAC.
Ok, so I'll go along with 9VAC then.

Now, where exactly do I start slicing traces?
post #745 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by adhoc
Now, where exactly do I start slicing traces?
There is a two wire "bus" that connects to all the 5V supplies rectifiers, you can't miss it. You will have to trace it a little to figure out which voltage goes where. An easy way to do that is disconnect one supply at a time and check on the actual chip pins. Let the "fun" begin...
post #746 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by aco
DY2000's are supposed to be rebranded AD's afaik, maybe this is DY2000 and that no. is what they were rebranded from.

What are the sound diffs with that and Opa's? Sounds better or worse with the switch?
Here's what Eddie wrote me last night:
'The ad-08 is nothing wrong with it but not suitable in buffer stage only, it should use it at gain part . All the opa is already more than 10 years of age (dy-2000.lt-1057 ,ad-08 etc). Nowadays they make the new one which is more expersive but still not as good as the old one.'

He told me he's going to mail me a DY2000 tomorrow, free of charge. What a nice guy!

As far as the sound goes, through the dac to the amp, I found the AD-08 to be a bit more refined overall, but especially in the bass comparted to the 2604. The 2604 is definitely bass heavy (maybe brighter too), but I'm only just burning it in and, as the AD-08 was causing the distortion through the headamp, I didn't listen to it too much. I wonder how the DY2000 will sound.
post #747 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by dandi-o
Here's what Eddie wrote me last night:
'The ad-08 is nothing wrong with it but not suitable in buffer stage only, it should use it at gain part . All the opa is already more than 10 years of age (dy-2000.lt-1057 ,ad-08 etc). Nowadays they make the new one which is more expersive but still not as good as the old one.'

He told me he's going to mail me a DY2000 tomorrow, free of charge. What a nice guy!

As far as the sound goes, through the dac to the amp, I found the AD-08 to be a bit more refined overall, but especially in the bass comparted to the 2604. The 2604 is definitely bass heavy (maybe brighter too), but I'm only just burning it in and, as the AD-08 was causing the distortion through the headamp, I didn't listen to it too much. I wonder how the DY2000 will sound.
I let my Zhaoulu burn in for about 250 hours over I guess 3 or four weeks altogether. This DAC takes a long time to get to it's "real" sound wich has been mentioned before. Only at that point did I do the DC cap mod , just to make sure I know what Im hearing first before I change it LOL. The DY2000 will make vocals more detailed IMHO. I found the burn in the next biggest thing compared to the DC caps , after burn -in everything seemed intergrated and on the same sound field. Bass was was more present but less bloated and much more accurate. I really found this DAC quite thin sounding when it first arrived , burn-in changed that alot.
post #748 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinwerm
I let my Zhaoulu burn in for about 250 hours over I guess 3 or four weeks altogether. This DAC takes a long time to get to it's "real" sound wich has been mentioned before. Only at that point did I do the DC cap mod , just to make sure I know what Im hearing first before I change it LOL. The DY2000 will make vocals more detailed IMHO. I found the burn in the next biggest thing compared to the DC caps , after burn -in everything seemed intergrated and on the same sound field. Bass was was more present but less bloated and much more accurate. I really found this DAC quite thin sounding when it first arrived , burn-in changed that alot.
Burn in has always been important with new equipment,but the zhaolu really comes to life after several hundred hours of burn.I have around 700 play hours on my ori modded dac.

And people that order a 2.0 from eddie can request the dc caps to be removed.Those cap are evil in this dac.
post #749 of 858
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerWilco
Burn in has always been important with new equipment,but the zhaolu really comes to life after several hundred hours of burn.I have around 700 play hours on my ori modded dac.

And people that order a 2.0 from eddie can request the dc caps to be removed.Those cap are evil in this dac.
Yes I fully agree , however (it's always an "however") If you order from Eddie in HK and ask for the DCs to be taken out that voids the warranty from what I have heard. Just in case an opamp is put in incorrectly. The DC caps block that problem of modding. I just don't want to see him get the brunt of returns from bad implementations. He is fantastic to deal with for consumer priced DACs
post #750 of 858
Does anyone have major popping and crackling issues with the Zhaolu? It's connected to my X-Fi through Coaxial and when playing music files in Winamp I noticed a little bit of popping and crackling. That's not a big issue as it doesn't happen very often.

The bigger problem is with video files. When I open video files the crackling is pretty loud and the same thing happens when I drag files into the video player.

Anyone know of a fix?
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