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beyerdynamic DT880 re-cable guide(in progress) - Page 5

post #61 of 73




So I was going to rewire my DT880 600ohms based on a few guides ive read.. I opened it up and saw this.


I plan on using Mogami W2534 and id really like to do a dual entry split.


Any ideas on how to handle the crossover etc?

post #62 of 73

Drill a hole in the bottom of the second cup, you'll have to implement strain relief (I usually heatshrink the cable, use a ziptie and some hot glue). Those diodes go in the trash, just mark +/- and wire the new cable directly.

post #63 of 73
Hello everyone, I've been following this thread with great interest and even sent private message to few of you guys. I intend to recable my beyer DT770 pro anniversay edition 32 ohm, with a dual entry system and a neutrik 4pin xlr connector I've read than most of the recable where done with either mogami or canare 4 braid cable. I'm inetrested in trying to use this also relatively inexpensive adam all krystal occ cable (http://www.global-audio-store.fr/fr/368-adam-hall-cable-microphone-krystal-series-occ-xlr-male-femelle-10-metres.html) wich are a two occ conductor+shield. So I'll be using two piece of cable, on for each driver. but I need help on how to connect everything safely. Today's knowledge is that both hot signal go to there respective's driver pin. both grounds go to there relative pins also left ground > pin 2, right ground > pin 4 But this is not a commun/shared groud anymore. Is it troublesome? And what should I do with the shield of both cable? SHould I do something like that? http://postimg.org/image/i5zf4chkz/ any wise advise is welcome. best regards Dookie182
post #64 of 73

Connect the shield to the grounds on the XLR plug only, not on the headphone drivers and you should get it right.

Those are some thick cables, man.  You sure you don't want to strip the outer jacket and shielding?  You probably will not need them anyway if you are just listening at home, plus it will make the cable lighter.

post #65 of 73

Thanks for the hint Mad Max.

I kind of came to that conclusion too, but browsing head-fi, I came across this thread http://www.head-fi.org/t/509021/beyerdynamic-t1-cable-connection-mod

And was wondering if I shouldn't just let the shield alone (couldn't be hard to connect or disconnect the shield from the 4 pin xlr connector anyway.)

I' guess I should look for something lighter too. I was eyeing some up-occ copper cables any advise on what gauge I should go for. More 21awg or 24?

best regards

post #66 of 73

24awg would be better for flexibility.  21 will be unnecessarily thick, I think.


Floating shield is pointless as far as I know.  You might as well just omit it, otherwise you need to connect it at the XLR plug to the minus pins so that the shield can actually protect.

post #67 of 73

I take it by all this discussion there is no way to install a connector in the housing for the single entry cable?

post #68 of 73

I see absolutely no reason why not, just make sure it's small enough to fit in there. I've seen some pretty tiny 3.5mm jacks.

post #69 of 73
Originally Posted by FallenAngel View Post

I see absolutely no reason why not, just make sure it's small enough to fit in there. I've seen some pretty tiny 3.5mm jacks.

I can see by the photos, not a whole lot of room in there. Just seemed curious that no one (that I know of) has tried it.

post #70 of 73

Just used his guide to recable my dt 990s, went for the dual entry instead of single entry and my god do they sound amazing!

Edited by Drnaptime - 6/1/14 at 6:03pm
post #71 of 73
I did a recable using a Rean tiny xlr 4-pin connector, succesfully fitted in thanks to Dremel work. Also note the retaining nut needed filing down across one flat in order to allow the driver to seat down correctly

Edited by skilhead - 3/7/16 at 8:20am
post #72 of 73

This is exactly what I'm thinking of doing to my DT990s. Did you notice a good improvement in sound quality?

post #73 of 73
My primary objective was to allow me to switch cables with different lengths and jack styles (straight or 90 degree) to suit the particular use, so: short for carrying around wiith the phone, medium for sitting by the computer and long for TV/hifi.
Not really possible to do before/after comparison because it took me several hours, but my audio-memory and older ears did not tell me of any difference.
I first used van damme tour grade classic XKE quad microphone cable 268-026-000 to make the long one,
but found that it was too stiff and weighty.
Therefore I stripped out the wires and sheathed them with the outer braid from some sailing rope.
I left them twisted together with the fibrous strings and also left the paper wrapper in place, then threaded through the rope on which I used a drop of cyanoacrylate glue to prevent fraying at the ends.
Better feel/comfort.

I've posted some pics of my other cables of this set in to the DIY cable forum,
Post numbers # 14861 a 14864

Edited by skilhead - 4/8/16 at 11:05am
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