question for vinyl folks - Page 2

Does anyone know of a Pro-ject dealer in the US? I can't seem to find one.

Other budget 2nd-hand tables to look at are Dual 12xx tables.

Biggest thing is to make sure you go with a belt drive table unless you can find a $1000 direct-drive table somewhere for $99.95. Low end direct drive tables are known for rumble caused by the gears.

As to the built-in phono stage, if you see a table with RCA outs and no ground wire, its a good bet that it is a built-in phono stage model.

Other thoughts on making a cheap table sound good...

Make sure whatever needs lubed is lubed (usually a bearing somewhere) with the right type of grease/lube.

Make sure its on a solid, heavy, level surface and it has some vibration dampening (a 12-14" inner-tube works great - don't laugh).

Make sure the cartridge is aligned (really simple, but so seldom done)

Hope this helps.

a. redneck,

can you elaborate on your cart alignment process for me?

Just to add to Redneck's suggestions, also make sure if you have a used cartridge that the stylus is not worn, or better yet replace it with something decent like a entry level Grado. Once the stylus is worn not only will the records sound like crap but it will cause damage to the records.

Some of the mid-priced direct drive Technics are decent and should be priced around $100. I have one (SL1700?) that I was thinking of selling for about that. It has no auduble wow/flutter or rumble so it's a good entry level turntable for the money, but it just doesn't have the pace and timing to the music that you'll get from a Rega, for example.

Many turntables come with a tool for cartridge alignment, but there are protractors made to do this as well. Mobile Fidelity made something call a Geo-Disk that also can be used if you can find one. The other thing is to make sure the tracking force is set properly, usually at the higher end of the recommended range. A lighter force can be appealing due to less pressure on the grooves but it's mistracking that really will wear the record, and you'll get mistracking if it's set too light.

Have fun!

also try to find the recommended tracking force for your stylus and use it. too light not only will it mis-track but the needed will jump around inside the track and chew it up.

The inner tube under the turntable is a good tweek, but I will go you one better- leave the air out of the inner tube. Go to a bicycle shop or hardware store and get a big bottle of inner tube stop leak "goop". (I used some green stuff). Fill the tube with the liquid, now pick the tube up and hold it so the valve opening is the highest part and gently squeeze the inner tube till the goop reaches the valve stem, insert the valve back into the tube now. You end up with a tube full of a thick liquid that has a much lower resonance then the air filled tube will. (a good thing) and it won't ever spring a leak. It will be much thinner then an air filled tube, so it doesn't look so strange either. I can jump up and down next to my turntable and it never notices.

mc whak: The 5xx are much better than the 12xx. The 12xx are mostly from the early 70's while the 5xx are from the late 70's and 80's. The 5xx also where more expensive back then.

I have both a 1218 and a CS505 here and the 505 sounds much better. Not even to mention the way the 1218 looks! It's extremely big and ugly, the 505 is as elegant and slim as modern turntables.

If you want to know more about a particular Dual model check this website:
THE DUAL CLASSICS WEBSITE

Sorry I didn't reply sooner (our local ISP service has been pretty doggie the last few days)

Cartridge alignment: Instead of wasting your time with my feeble knowledge, check out this artical. It covers most of the basics, though you can find (much) less expensive guides that are just as good (the guide that used to come with shure carts is considered one of the best).

http://www.audiophilia.com/features/cartridge_setup.htm

Tracking force: redshifter made an excelent point. Put another away, "a little two much is better than not enough". And you will also find that on some records, you may want to turn up or down the tracking force from your "zero" setting.

Dual tables: I'll yeild to WAB as I have heard several, but only owned one and it is set up for 78's.

Needles: If you buy ANY used cart, plan on replacing the needle. The are several places, but this one will have one for just about everything:

http://www.garage-a-records.com/cart.html

Cart mounts: There are two basic types that are "standards" - H mounts and P mounts. The H types bolt to the headshell from the top. P mounts plug into the arm itself and have a set screw. I'd recommend going H (which most of the tables recommended so far will use), if for no other reason, you will be dealing with them more often if you get hooked on vinyl. (it happens)

Tone arms: on high-end stuff go with a straight arm. On low end stuff it won't make as much of a difference as a getting a good table.

Other thoughs:
The most important thing is having good, clean vinyl. It all starts there and the best table in the world will sound just as bad (and probably worse) with trashed vinyl.

1. Always brush an album BEFORE and AFTER play.
2. Always put it back in the jacket WITH A SLEEVE when done.
3. Always stand them up for storage, and hopefully in a tight group.
4. Never play an album more than twice without letting it rest (this is why a lot of albums are warn-out)

I can't recommend a $200+ record cleaning machine, but I can strongly recommend a $20 discwasher, Pickaring, or Philips carbon fiber brush, and a $70 disk doctor cleaning kit (use once per record) http://www.discdoc.com/

Well thats enough for one post