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T-Amp and Speakers - Page 3

post #31 of 50
3/13/06 at 12:01am
You can always get a cheap car battery from walmart and use that.....I get more than 200 hours out of a single charge......
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post #32 of 50
3/13/06 at 12:42am
Cire: There is no subwoofer port on a T-Amp. If you want to run a subwoofer, you'd need to split the signal to the subwoofer (or subwoofer amp) before the T-Amp. You can buy splitter cables that take a preamp signal (not amplified speaker outputs!) and split it to two different amps.

I have a powered sub, and I send the signal from my preamp to the sub, and the sub then splits the unamplified signal and has an output to my t-amp.
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post #33 of 50
3/13/06 at 12:46am
ilikemonkeys: what do you do when you need to recharge? Do you have it hooked up to a switch, or do you pull cables off the batttery and put on the recharger cables?

Everything at radioshack is so overpriced. I'm very happy with this powersupply with the T-Amp, and it costs less than a Rat Shack cable power cable..

http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?...wr1206&stype=3
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post #34 of 50
3/13/06 at 1:25am
How do I recharge?

I've used two methods.
1) Trickle charge with a 12V walwart for a week. I put the battery outside so there wasn't any outgassing......and cause I didn't know if it would explode.

2) Borrowed a friends car charger for a day. I think I'll do this nest time.

I take my T-amp to music festivals with my Titans for campsite tunes....it's nice to have a battery around for portable use. Well, not really portable, but enough to pullout of the trunk when some tunes are needed. The leads from the T-amp are alaigator clips. It's easier that way.
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post #35 of 50
3/14/06 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbleChamber
There is no way a $30 plastic matchbox can power a passive sub. Get a separate amp or subwoofer amp. The cheapest solution would probably be buying a part out subwoofer amp plate.
I had a passive Bose Acoustimass 10 subwoofer attached to a pair of $800 Polk Lsi7 bookshelf speakers in my bedroom. I had these powered by a little $30 T-Amp hooked directly up to a $900 cd player and surprisingly it sounded VERY good.

The funny thing is that I have always disliked Bose and Polk products before trying this combination.
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post #36 of 50
3/14/06 at 10:21pm
That bose must be one efficient subwoofer!
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post #37 of 50
3/15/06 at 12:44am
The combo sounded very decent. A large mid-bass hump was evident. But, that actually kind of helped in a way since it lacked of visceral bass that one would get from a true amplified subwoofer. The highs were heaven and midrange was not too shabby.
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post #38 of 50
3/15/06 at 2:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hottyson
The combo sounded very decent. A large mid-bass hump was evident. But, that actually kind of helped in a way since it lacked of visceral bass that one would get from a true amplified subwoofer. The highs were heaven and midrange was not too shabby.
Did you have you headphone on? JK.

May I ask how big your room is? I might want to try it with my Mirage. I was thinking... get 4 of these and I can have a 7.1 HT setup in my bedroom.
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post #39 of 50
3/16/06 at 3:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbleChamber
Did you have you headphone on? JK.

May I ask how big your room is? I might want to try it with my Mirage. I was thinking... get 4 of these and I can have a 7.1 HT setup in my bedroom.
My bedroom was 18 x 12 feet.
Good luck.
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post #40 of 50
3/16/06 at 6:33am
I have a question regarding t-amp. If I buy a super t-amp and I live in romania (we have 220V not 110) will I have to buy another PS, or just a adaptor?
I saw the specs and it says "110-240V". I guess that should be enough right?
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post #41 of 50
3/16/06 at 9:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandea
I have a question regarding t-amp. If I buy a super t-amp and I live in romania (we have 220V not 110) will I have to buy another PS, or just a adaptor?
I saw the specs and it says "110-240V". I guess that should be enough right?
The T-Amp doesn't come with a PS nor a power adapter. You need to buy one if you want to run it on AC instead of battery. I guess the power supply/adapter you will get in your country would be 220v. The input voltage of the PS matters not, just have to make sure the output is at least 12v/2amp. Basically the power supply/adapter converts AC into DC. Hope it helps.
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post #42 of 50
3/16/06 at 11:59pm
I believe the Super T-amp does include a power adapter along with some other cables. This is what PartsExpress shows with the SuperT.

It's spec'd at 120-220V, so I'd imagine it would work fine in your country, yet you'd probably need a plug adapter, or a replacement AC cable.

If that doesn't work, BGMicro has is a great T-amp supply that you can use anywhere.
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post #43 of 50
3/17/06 at 2:07am
Sorry, didn't see that you were looking for a Super T. Conner is right, it should come with all the stuff you need. My apology for the confusion.
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post #44 of 50
3/17/06 at 10:36am
That's what I figured. I
will buy an adapter because that that comes with super t-amp cannot be physically plugged into 220v.
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post #45 of 50
3/17/06 at 12:06pm
Hey everyone, thanks for all the great feedback in this thread. I've learned a lot following along here and everyone has been very generous with their time and knowledge of this project. Who knew, on Head-Fi I would find a good, budget alternative! Thanks-
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