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K1000 OMG!! - Page 2

post #16 of 41
Thread Starter 
A good PPA shouldn't cost much and could serve as your only amp if you are on a budget. Just see the specs I listed. I need to get a better PS though.
post #17 of 41
What about the T-AMP? What's the final word if you can use this little amp to drive them? I should my pair next week and I will try it with the Dynamight which should probably be able to drive them.
post #18 of 41
Congrats...they really are great cans. I'm going to have to find a way to listen to mine more often.

As an aside, I do think that they REALLY shine with tubes...
post #19 of 41
Thread Starter 
T-amp is not recommended. It will work but....Yeah tubes are where it's at but to get it right costs at least 700. If I wasn't getting a new tv next month I would have gotten a nice RKV mark II already. oh well, it's not like they suck with my ppa.

post #20 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacemanspliff
Yeah tubes are where it's at but to get it right costs at least 700.
The nOrh SE9 is an excellent amp for driving the K1000. Last time I checked, it was still $400 new.
post #21 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trogdor
What about the T-AMP? What's the final word if you can use this little amp to drive them? I should my pair next week and I will try it with the Dynamight which should probably be able to drive them.
I always try to warn people about something before they buy the T amp...
The T amp is very "cheep", and will sound pretty good driving the K-1000's. Several people continue to use the T amp with K-1000, and we've heard of no driver failures... YET. But, at least one electrical engineer advises against using the T amp with any headphone. The main reason given is that the T amp leaks too much DC voltage for headphone use. While the amount of DC leakage involved would not harm full-sized loudspeaker drivers, the tiny drivers in headphones might eventually fry from the punishment. If I were you, I'd avoid the el cheapo T amp thing and invest in a real amp - one that is also powerful enough to be used to drive normal loudspeakers should you ever want to do so... I have found great success using the Bryston 2B LP. The sound of this amp is warm, smooth, non-fatiguing, and tonally well-balanced with the K-1000's. Check out the website at www.michael.mardis.com,and click on the link in the sidebar entitled "Headphones?". Read this, and then decide for yourself if you want to risk using the T amp with headphones...
post #22 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael G.
I always try to warn people about something before they buy the T amp...
The T amp is very "cheep", and will sound pretty good driving the K-1000's. Several people continue to use the T amp with K-1000, and we've heard of no driver failures... YET. But, at least one electrical engineer advises against using the T amp with any headphone. The main reason given is that the T amp leaks too much DC voltage for headphone use. While the amount of DC leakage involved would not harm full-sized loudspeaker drivers, the tiny drivers in headphones might eventually fry from the punishment. If I were you, I'd avoid the el cheapo T amp thing and invest in a real amp - one that is also powerful enough to be used to drive normal loudspeakers should you ever want to do so... I have found great success using the Bryston 2B LP. The sound of this amp is warm, smooth, non-fatiguing, and tonally well-balanced with the K-1000's. Check out the website at www.michael.mardis.com,and click on the link in the sidebar entitled "Headphones?". Read this, and then decide for yourself if you want to risk using the T amp with headphones...
I've utilized the T-amp as a headphone amp for several months and hundreds of hours and I've never run into problems.
I've just read the warnings on michael.mardis.com, and as far as the K1000 is concerned most points are irrelevant.
Quote:
1) The Sonic is a bridged amp. The negative output terminals CAN NOT be connected together. You would have to rewire your headphones to dual mono to use a bridged amp.
The K1000 doesn't connect the negative output terminals together, it's originally driven in balanced mode.
Quote:
2) This is a switching amp. The Tripath amps work by switching the output transistors fully on and off at a high frequency. Any shift in the switching pattern results in low frequency artifacts, i.e. - "audio". The high frequency swithing power must be filtered out to extract the audio. The filter is not perfect, so some ultrasonic noise remains. Not enough to bother normal speakers, but not good to put into your headphones. Which brings us to point:

2B) Filters. The output filters on the Sonic Impact are designed to work with 4-8 ohm drivers. Headphones typically have a much higher impedance, so the filter will not work in the range it was designed for. Thus even more ultrasonic noise in your headphones and your eardrums.
The recommended mod for K1000 usage is applying parallel resistors, in my case 4 Ohm.This way the amp sees a 4 Ohm load and the filters work as they are supposed to.
Quote:
4) As great as this amp sounds on speakers, it doesn't sound very good on headphones. You would be much better off with one of the nice opamp or even tube driven headphone amps.
The K1000 sounds not extraordinary, but decent driven by a modded T-amp, and in my experience other headphones are an even better match.I've plugged other AKGs,Senns, Grados, a Sony and a Beyer into an ASL UHC impedance matching transformer which was connected to the T-amp.Most sounded good, the Senn HD 600 even very good.No problems except the AKG K340.I stopped the experiment with the latter after a few seconds since I got strange distortion and dropouts.

The main problem with the Sonic T-amp seems to be that the quality isn't consistent.
I'm aware of only one other head-fi member that tested the T-amp utilizing the ASL, and it didn't work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg
I gifted one of these amps to Guru (gsferrari) in order for him to try adapting it for use with regular headphones. It'll be interesting to see whether he succeeds. I also tried to use it with an ASL UHC-Signature headphone adapter (which I think is a step-down transformer), but the result was distorted sound, and lots of clipping.
saint.panda, another head-fi member, reported two fried sources due to DC upstream , a rather expensive experience.Maybe I just was lucky by chance with my T-amp, and it seems to be wise to measure the amp before you connect it to anything.
post #23 of 41
"No problems except the AKG K340.I stopped the experiment with the latter after a few seconds since I got strange distortion and dropouts."

That's strange. I've had NO problems whatsoever driving my K340 with T amp. I wasn't using the ASL box, though. Maybe there's some sort of interaction problem with T-amp/ASL/K340? When driven directly from T amp speaker outputs, there's absolutely no problems driving K340. Mine was modded to terminate in 4-pin XLR as to not share the L and R ground; was your K340 modded not to share the L and R ground?

I would still be using my T-amp today if I hadn't broken it in a modding attempt. Even though I use my Dynahi now to drive K1000 and K340, I do miss the little T amp, which sounded wonderful when fed by a good source and headphones are properly modded with good wire, etc. I probably will be trying the T-2 amp or equivalent soon...
post #24 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael G.
I always try to warn people about something before they buy the T amp...
The T amp is very "cheep", and will sound pretty good driving the K-1000's. Several people continue to use the T amp with K-1000, and we've heard of no driver failures... YET. But, at least one electrical engineer advises against using the T amp with any headphone. The main reason given is that the T amp leaks too much DC voltage for headphone use. While the amount of DC leakage involved would not harm full-sized loudspeaker drivers, the tiny drivers in headphones might eventually fry from the punishment.
The K-1000 is slightly different than most headphones. IIRC the DC offset of the T-amp into 120 ohms was measured at about 8mW, which has to be dissipated as heat. The K-1000 has a power handling capability of 1000 mW. When operated at near its rated load, it's dissipating far more than 8 mW as heat (no driver ever made is 100% efficient) with no damage. The DC voltage argument simply doesn't hold up for the small amount of DC involved. I realize it's fun to be a wet blanket for some people, but so far you have not presented any real argument not to use the T-amp with a K-1000. If the T-amp fries a headphone, it's because something is wrong with the unit, not due to its design.

I do NOT use resistors in parallel. There's simply no need. Sounds good as is. I have used the T-amp in this rig:



It sounds good.
post #25 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirsch


It sounds good.
That pic is just so funny!

Well I need to find a SS amp for the K1000 and I'm not sure what is really out there (and funny enough all of the previous threads aren't that useful, i.e. the focus on a lot of tube stuff). I think the T-Amp would do the trick but as I stated in another thread (I think), the other option, though a little bit more expensive, but in the same vain, is the Red Wine Audio Clari-T. I have talked with Vinnie and this seems like a great option (I still haven't decided yet).

The other possibility is the Grace Design m902 which apparently has enough juice to power the AKG K1000 (I think?).

post #26 of 41
Thread Starter 
the K1000 amp ? is a constantly evolving issue. I'm certainly wanting a tube bad but am hesitant on spending the $$ on a proper one for now. eventually I will but my focus is on a new TV for the living room and that's going to cost plenty.
post #27 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirsch

I do NOT use resistors in parallel. There's simply no need. Sounds good as is. I have used the T-amp in this rig:



It sounds good.
Probably the best sounding portable rig I've ever seen.
post #28 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirsch
I realize it's fun to be a wet blanket for some people, but so far you have not presented any real argument not to use the T-amp with a K-1000. If the T-amp fries a headphone, it's because something is wrong with the unit, not due to its design.
Glad to hear an opposing argument for the case, actually. The truth is that knowledgeable people can (and do) come up with different conclusions regarding these issues. I personally asked Michael Mardis about using the T amp with the K-1000, and he advised against it. So, the reason for my posting about this was not to "... be a wet blanket for some people...", and I'm not sure what would cause you to make a paranoid statement like that. Anyway, I know that quality control has been a pretty big problem with these $30 amps. Is it possible that levels of DC leakage vary considerably among samples? Somebody should do a batch measurement. You do tend to get what you pay for in this world...
post #29 of 41
DC offset = 8mW
did I read something wrong here?
post #30 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael G.
Glad to hear an opposing argument for the case, actually. The truth is that knowledgeable people can (and do) come up with different conclusions regarding these issues. I personally asked Michael Mardis about using the T amp with the K-1000, and he advised against it. So, the reason for my posting about this was not to "... be a wet blanket for some people...", and I'm not sure what would cause you to make a paranoid statement like that. Anyway, I know that quality control has been a pretty big problem with these $30 amps. Is it possible that levels of DC leakage vary considerably among samples? Somebody should do a batch measurement. You do tend to get what you pay for in this world...
Has Mr. Mardis tried this and experienced these issues for himself or is this just theory? No offense to Michael, but many many people have used the T-Amp with the K1000 with no problems so I have a hard time understanding the real issue (DC leakage, c'mon...).

Don't get me wrong, I'm not intending to use the T-Amp with my AKG K1000 but I have not seen a real reason not too if you really want too (taking the right precautions)!

I think I'm between the Clari-T and the m902 at this point (at least for my purposes).
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