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What power cord for Corda HA-1? - Page 2

post #16 of 29
Thread Starter 
markl,

I have a Sony CE775 cdp that has an attached power cord. Therefore I'd have to put the Power 3 on my Corda amp. Would I still hear a difference in sound quality?

Michael
post #17 of 29
No soldering at all ! it's basically fitting a plug in one end and another plug in the other. All you need is a screw driver and a wire strippers.
post #18 of 29
Thread Starter 
Raymond,

Where do you get the parts? I'm in the USA.

Michael
post #19 of 29
I'm certain it would improve the sound even if your source has a captive cord.

markl
post #20 of 29
One could still free it and replace it with an IEC receptical.
post #21 of 29
Thread Starter 
markl,

Since my audio system is next to my computer system (maybe that's not necessary if I do some rearranging). Anyway, I've ran out of wall outlets. All I have are 6-port UPS's. Suggestions for improvement? Is the UPS defeating the effect of the Power 3?

Michael
post #22 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by Nezer
One could still free it and replace it with an IEC receptical.
How is this done? Does it void the warrantee?
post #23 of 29
VD recos sticking their cords straight into the wall. Also, UPS systems and home depot power strips are BAD for audio and not recommended.

You would indeed be negatively impacting the potential benefits of the Power 3 by sticking it into the UPS. You should aslo separate your computer gear from your audio gear if at all possible because it introduces noise.

I myself have the (relatively) inexpensive Monster Power Bar 1100 and use this with all my audio gear. At $150 (on the web) it's a fine power conditioner/surge suppressor and works well with VD cords.

markl
post #24 of 29
I went to my local DIY store and used the thickest and highest current capacity cable, so thick that the guys that I work with (architects) thought I was going to use it to power some industrial power generator of some sort. It doesn't need to be that thick but I can't see how it can hurt, more copper means better conductivity and more headroom for more current to go through.

The IEC plug is a "Wattgate", they are mainly use by Kimber on their top of the line powercords. I got mine from a mail order company in the UK, www.hififorsale.com . I got my one frmo them in a HiFi show with £10 off, they are normally £25. The plugs, I used a MK plug, a rubberised one so that it won't crack and it's really solid.

Took about 30 minutes to make, cost under £20 (with the discount on the IEC plug, worth a lot more though, consider Kimber charges £200 for the same cable with less current capacity) and sounds brilliant.
post #25 of 29
Quote:
Originally posted by wacomme


How is this done? Does it void the warrantee?
With a dremel or a punch, a butterknife (Just kidding), some solder, and some heavy-guage hook-up wire. Of course there needs to be room inside the case and there likly is.

As for voiding the warranty, anything worth doing voids the warranty. ;-)

Tehcnically even opening the case would void the warrantly in most cases but replacing the power cord would be so obvious one would be hard-pressed to explain "but I bought it that way" to the Circuit City Customer Service Rep. ;-)

In short, it would not only void the warranty but blow the warranty to hell and back a few times over.
post #26 of 29
Does shielding and dielectrics even do anything in power cords? I am very skeptical of this.
post #27 of 29
that's why I picked the thick powercord to use when making one, they are very well insulated since they can carry massive current.

As for RF, I put a Ferrite clamp on it.
post #28 of 29
Quote:
home depot power strips are BAD for audio and not recommended.
I have so much equipment in the den that I have power strips plugged into power strips.

2 PCs, cable modem, , network gateway, printer, fax
9 Hi-Fi components (including tube pre-amp and amp), headphone amp on the way
TV, VCR, , direct tv box, PC dolby digital box, card scanner, 2 palm chargers and a cordless phone.


I was wondering
1) where I could do some research on the power strips impact to the hi fi
2) best ideas - run new lines from the electrical box or buy a monster power regulator or?
post #29 of 29
Quote:
I have the Corda HA-1 with the Absolute Power Cord. I haven't tried it with anything else, but it is only $50, only a bit more than a standard cord you could get at Radio Shack or a computer store, IMO it's worth it to just start with the APC. What it does not have that others have is shielding. But if an 8' well-built, well-reviewed cord is what you want, go for it.
sorry to revive this old thread, but i thought it might be helpful to suggest taking a look at this http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...=&threadid=201
to anyone using a corda who is thinking about buying the APC...
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