Hi Kelly,
This belongs in DIY, but here goes. As I mentioned before, we are still working out optimal resistor values, but for the purposes of answering your question I will assume a "reasonable" set of values that are not far out in left field.
The resistors should be of good quality and be hand matched for accuracy. The pot should be an Alps Blue, stepped attenuator, or other high quality device. The pot case should be grounded if necessary to reduce noise. Input capacitors C1 should be large high quality polypropylene film/foil or metalized film. The -3db of the input should be between 1Hz and .1Hz to minimize phase distortion and attenuation of low bass signals. This is determined by the values of C1 and R2. Power supply capacitors C2 and C3 should be as big and high quality as space allows, which can be an issue in small portable cases. 2000µF per rail should be doable. Reservoir caps C4 should be large fast films such as the Wima 10µF polyethylene. 12 AAA or dual 9V batteries are better than a single 9V, again space is a consideration. The opamp should be either the AD8610/20 (on a BrownDog adapter), which is generally considered to be the best, or perhaps one of the other high end opamps, although I can't think of any I would rather use. The FET cascode current source should be implemented using Fairchild FETs, they seem to behave better than some of the other brands. 1mA should be sufficient for the AD8610/20. Full multiloop feedback mode should be used instead of local or global feedback only. The buffers should be stacked. Depending on your headphone impedance and your ears, triple or even quadruple stacking may offer improvement over double stacking. Only a couple of people have tested this level of stacking, so it is premature to make strong statements about it. Anyway, that is an example of a high end configuration.