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Rewiring the new Sennheiser HD201s

post #1 of 36
Thread Starter 
A quick guide to rewiring the HD201s. Neither I nor Headfi will be responsible if you fry or damage your precious $20 headphones.

My HD201s just arrived today from Headroom. I quickly stripped open the package, pulled out the cans and plugged them in for a 5 second listen to make sure the drivers were working. I then unplugged them and pulled off the earpads, which are held in place by about 10 small plastic tabs.



Underneath the pads I found the covered driver as well as 4 screw holes.



Assuming the screws were holding the plastic oval the driver was fastened on, I unscrewed them. Although they are quite small a standard size screwdriver worked fine.



Once the screws were well... unscrewed, and the plastic oval removed from the enclosures, I found that the driver was sealed in a plastic box with another four screws ::sigh::



Even after unscrewing that second set of four screws the plastic box would not come off. Turned out it was sealed with glue.... a lot of it. After prying at it for 3-4 minutes with a pair of precision screwdrivers it came off. I was a little worried about destroying the headphones on this step as it requires so much pressure to get these things off.



Finally the drivers are accessable. The soldering terminals are a lot like Grados, two squarish globs of solder for each driver connected to each other. The wiring is very similar to the HD600 cables I detroyed in the past, with ultra thin wires covered with coats of red, amber and green. The amber ones in my case were the ground, red was right and green was left. The drivers seemed to be similar looking to Koss Portapro diaphrams. I had a four foot cord I made using a switchcraft mini and litz braided silver plated copper handy. I snipped off the bottoms of the boots and ran the new wire through them. After the wire goes through the boots it has to go through the hole in the plastic box which will probably have to be enlarged and then the corresponding wires soldered to the terminals on the driver.



Screw back in the plastic boxes and push the wire back down in the boot so you have enough clearance to replace the plastic oval. Before you put the plastic oval back remember to snap the headband back in place if you took it out and zip tie the cable above the boot for strain relief. Finally screw the ovals back in, replace the earpads and your done. Congratulations! You've just spent the past two hours rewiring a $20 headphone



Hope everyone likes the guide, I look forward to seeing eveyone else's version of the rewired HD201!
post #2 of 36
you are a DIY fiend

how does it sound?
post #3 of 36
Please tell what have they stuffed the cans with ? whats that white thing in the ear cups ? PLEASE!!!!!!!!
post #4 of 36
Man, i wish you would have burned them in a little, listened to them a little first, and posted CHANGES. It's a $20 headphone, again, as you said, it's not a huge loss if i damaged mine (which i have no qualms with) but if the change(s) are not worth it, i probably wouldn't bother. ;D
post #5 of 36
Thread Starter 
Running them out of my D-EJ2000 and my Rockhopper portable pimeta. Sounds really good for a $20 headphone, however I can tell that they need burn in as the bass has changed a bit over the past half hour. The white screening is a just a fabric (maybe polyester or cotton) used possibly as an aperiodic vent to make the drivers behave as if the small plastic box is a larger sealed enclosure.
post #6 of 36
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by diredesire
Man, i wish you would have burned them in a little, listened to them a little first, and posted CHANGES. It's a $20 headphone, again, as you said, it's not a huge loss if i damaged mine (which i have no qualms with) but if the change(s) are not worth it, i probably wouldn't bother. ;D
I didn't want to be stuck with that miserable stock cord for even a day There are some people out there that have been waiting for someone to document the process before attempting it on their own, so they will probably be the ones that document the changes.
post #7 of 36
Oh man...so sweet...

*drool*
post #8 of 36
Nice job my friend - Makes a cheap 'phone look a lot more
post #9 of 36
Thread Starter 
Glad you guys like it It's burning in as we speak
post #10 of 36
Nice job. Yes you are correct there are people waiting for the first one to recable the HD201, like me!

Can I ask a dumb question?

How many connections in each cup? Did senn have a braid and twin wires each side, and have you used twin wire in replacement?

Can't quite make out from the pics. Would like to have seen the new soldered points close-up.

I ruined my HD25sp by breaking the tiny driver wires and don't want to repeat that on the HD201s.
post #11 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevieDvd
Nice job. Yes you are correct there are people waiting for the first one to recable the HD201, like me!

Can I ask a dumb question?

How many connections in each cup? Did senn have a braid and twin wires each side, and have you used twin wire in replacement?

Can't quite make out from the pics. Would like to have seen the new soldered points close-up.

I ruined my HD25sp by breaking the tiny driver wires and don't want to repeat that on the HD201s.
2 per side. A channel and a ground.

-Alex-
post #12 of 36
Are those 27mm drivers? At 24ohms it seems awfully close to the lowend sony and panasonic drivers. My pair of hd201 also exhibits the same distortion characteristics to them when raising the bass or listening loudly.
post #13 of 36
i'm sorry to bring up this old thread, but I got a few questions

how did you put the thing back, did u glue it back together or just screwed it and left the glue alone??
post #14 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by ah_long
i'm sorry to bring up this old thread, but I got a few questions

how did you put the thing back, did u glue it back together or just screwed it and left the glue alone??
Just screw it. The housing will hold securely, and it won't buzz or anything.
post #15 of 36
any suggestions on where/what wires to get?
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