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post your grado mods.... - Page 461

post #6901 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

anyone know what kind of wood this is?

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post
 

That looks like one of fleasbaby's creations or thelostmidrange, It does look like Maple on top.

 

*chuckle* Wasn't me :).

 

Looks like Maple to me as well, possibly white Oak from Home Depot...but it seems to have no grain at all...is this a trick question? Is it some sort of compound substance?

post #6902 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

 

 

 

*chuckle* Wasn't me :).

 

Looks like Maple to me as well, possibly white Oak from Home Depot...but it seems to have no grain at all...is this a trick question? Is it some sort of compound substance?

ya got me, its a wood composite filament for 3d printing

modeled in tinkercad (measured mostly from a 7keys cup)

sands like wood and finished in tung oil, working on

mocking up a set to see how they sound

post #6903 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

 

 

 

*chuckle* Wasn't me :).

 

Looks like Maple to me as well, possibly white Oak from Home Depot...but it seems to have no grain at all...is this a trick question? Is it some sort of compound substance?

ya got me, its a wood composite filament for 3d printing

modeled in tinkercad (measured mostly from a 7keys cup)

sands like wood and finished in tung oil, working on

mocking up a set to see how they sound

Interesting.

post #6904 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

ya got me, its a wood composite filament for 3d printing

modeled in tinkercad (measured mostly from a 7keys cup)

sands like wood and finished in tung oil, working on

mocking up a set to see how they sound


Fascinating stuff....keep us posted on sound!

post #6905 of 7085

Hi, new poster here and can finally post images after lurking about for too long.  I'm not sure if I've seen a post regarding modding Grados this way.

I like a bit of a steampunk in my workspace and was building my own headphones for a while out of some old bits and some koss drivers.  That was until I saw the gold 325i which is what set me down this headphone appreciation path.

As Grado had already done 60% of the work for me I started messing with the parts I'd collected and I discovered that the housings are the same size as german WWII headsets!  Is this a mere coincidence.?..who knows. But if you're looking for some superior and cool metal gimbal rod/block replacements - ebay might be your friend.  There is a lot of variety.

This is where mine are currently at:

Some of them take a bit of work to refit as they might be welded or riveted to the headband.  The headband on the gimbals I wanted to use were rotten so for now I've attached the stock headband to them.


Edited by chontler - 2/4/16 at 9:28am
post #6906 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by chontler View Post
 

Hi, new poster here so and can finally post images after lurking about for too long.  I'm not sure if I've seen a post regarding modding Grados this way.

I'm like a bit of a steampunk in my workspace and was building my own headphones for a while out of some old bits and some koss drivers.  That was until I saw the gold 325i which is what set me down this headphone appreciation path.

As Grado have already done 60% of the work for me I started messing with the parts I'd collected, and I discovered that the housings are the same size as german WWII headsets!  Is this a mere coincidence....who knows. But if you're looking for some superior and cool metal gimbal rod/block replacements ebay might be your friend.  There is a lot of variety.

This is where mine are currently at:

Some of them take a bit of work to refit as they might be welded or riveted to the headband.  The headband on the gimbals I wanted to use were rotten so for now I've attached the stock headband to them.

 

awesome look !

post #6907 of 7085
post #6908 of 7085

gotta question, last time i had a rodblock and headband that would come apart, i used some super glue to fix it and it worked

i just wondered if anyone had a better way, one that might keep them together, but able to get apart if i wanted at some point

i thought about hot glue, but that seems it might be a little messy

post #6909 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post

gotta question, last time i had a rodblock and headband that would come apart, i used some super glue to fix it and it worked
i just wondered if anyone had a better way, one that might keep them together, but able to get apart if i wanted at some point
i thought about hot glue, but that seems it might be a little messy

Hot glue should be ok, at least you can hairdryer it open when you want to. As for it getting messy, same thing - just warm it up a bit and rub off any surplus. It might get a little messy inside and make the rods stiffer if any got in that side, but tbh that's probably a good thing.
post #6910 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by chontler View Post


Hot glue should be ok, at least you can hairdryer it open when you want to. As for it getting messy, same thing - just warm it up a bit and rub off any surplus. It might get a little messy inside and make the rods stiffer if any got in that side, but tbh that's probably a good thing.

yeah, i'll probably give it a go tomorrow, thanks

post #6911 of 7085

so..................

talked about this filament earlier

weird stuff kinda sawdust and plastic, 35 bucks for a kilo (a kilo is a lot)

prints real nice........

 

 

had a set of rs-1 gimbals on a Jmoney headband i got off the ebay a few years ago but never used

they were missing the thumbscrews... so i 3d printed a set just to the size i needed based on a screw i got off thingeverse

used a set of sr80 drivers i had in cedar cups the sound is excellent, maybe a bit better than the cedar

maybe a bit more and better defined base and bigger soundstage... couldn't be happier

 

modeled the cups in tinkercad, (about 3 1/2 hours each to print at the highest quality setting)

fill is 20% (they're hollow with in inner support structure) weight and feel is like real wood

holes are printed in, jack hole is large inside to allow the threads to come through 

sanding is a bit tough but not unlike sanding wood started at 60 grit and ended at 220

finish is 5-6 coats of formbys tung oil 

 

 

 

 

post #6912 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

so..................

talked about this filament earlier

weird stuff kinda sawdust and plastic, 35 bucks for a kilo (a kilo is a lot)

prints real nice........

 

 

had a set of rs-1 gimbals on a Jmoney headband i got off the ebay a few years ago but never used

they were missing the thumbscrews... so i 3d printed a set just to the size i needed based on a screw i got off thingeverse

used a set of sr80 drivers i had in cedar cups the sound is excellent, maybe a bit better than the cedar

maybe a bit more and better defined base and bigger soundstage... couldn't be happier

 

modeled the cups in tinkercad, (about 3 1/2 hours each to print at the highest quality setting)

fill is 20% (they're hollow with in inner support structure) weight and feel is like real wood

holes are printed in, jack hole is large inside to allow the threads to come through 

sanding is a bit tough but not unlike sanding wood started at 60 grit and ended at 220

finish is 5-6 coats of formbys tung oil 

 

 

 

 


Nice! They look very clean!

post #6913 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by chontler View Post


Hot glue should be ok, at least you can hairdryer it open when you want to. As for it getting messy, same thing - just warm it up a bit and rub off any surplus. It might get a little messy inside and make the rods stiffer if any got in that side, but tbh that's probably a good thing.

hot glue worked like a charm, and no mess either

post #6914 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post
 

so..................

talked about this filament earlier

weird stuff kinda sawdust and plastic, 35 bucks for a kilo (a kilo is a lot)

prints real nice........

 

 

had a set of rs-1 gimbals on a Jmoney headband i got off the ebay a few years ago but never used

they were missing the thumbscrews... so i 3d printed a set just to the size i needed based on a screw i got off thingeverse

used a set of sr80 drivers i had in cedar cups the sound is excellent, maybe a bit better than the cedar

maybe a bit more and better defined base and bigger soundstage... couldn't be happier

 

modeled the cups in tinkercad, (about 3 1/2 hours each to print at the highest quality setting)

fill is 20% (they're hollow with in inner support structure) weight and feel is like real wood

holes are printed in, jack hole is large inside to allow the threads to come through 

sanding is a bit tough but not unlike sanding wood started at 60 grit and ended at 220

finish is 5-6 coats of formbys tung oil 

 

 

 

 

Very nice.

 

Did you make the screens too....they look like mags. unlimited possibilities for screens.

I think you could make $$ making adapters for different types of ear pads.  

post #6915 of 7085
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arty McGhee View Post

so..................
talked about this filament earlier


weird stuff kinda sawdust and plastic, 35 bucks for a kilo (a kilo is a lot)
prints real nice........


had a set of rs-1 gimbals on a Jmoney headband i got off the ebay a few years ago but never used
they were missing the thumbscrews... so i 3d printed a set just to the size i needed based on a screw i got off thingeverse
used a set of sr80 drivers i had in cedar cups the sound is excellent, maybe a bit better than the cedar
maybe a bit more and better defined base and bigger soundstage... couldn't be happier

modeled the cups in tinkercad, (about 3 1/2 hours each to print at the highest quality setting)
fill is 20% (they're hollow with in inner support structure) weight and feel is like real wood
holes are printed in, jack hole is large inside to allow the threads to come through 
sanding is a bit tough but not unlike sanding wood started at 60 grit and ended at 220
finish is 5-6 coats of formbys tung oil 












Brilliant work!
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