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post your grado mods.... - Page 355

post #5311 of 5768
anyone know how to cover punched holes up? i punched 4 holes in my grados and i wanna cover 2 back up need something thatll bring the sound back to where it was.
post #5312 of 5768
A spent dryer sheet and some fabric glue...
post #5313 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaco17 View Post

A spent dryer sheet and some fabric glue...

 



thanks!
post #5314 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigrisJK View Post
 

Just finished installing some Ebony cans by 7keys! Kicking up a regimen of Beethoven and other things now. First impressions, they sound great. They already obviously LOOK great.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BwFl7fJCAAAP7wK.jpg:large

They look great, I'm glad you like the sound.

post #5315 of 5768

hi

 

i had opened the sr225i cups for some repair inside. while installing the cups back i am not sure how far the cup should go over the driver housing. it seems the distance affects the sound.

 

Need to know the accurate distance. Can anybody help in providing me the right measurement.

 

i have linked a pic, the red mark shows the distance whose measurement i require.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xSQZ8U91MgcVMweV9tUDlRLWM/edit?usp=sharing

 

Thanks

post #5316 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by SahaAnurag View Post
 

hi

 

i had opened the sr225i cups for some repair inside. while installing the cups back i am not sure how far the cup should go over the driver housing. it seems the distance affects the sound.

 

Need to know the accurate distance. Can anybody help in providing me the right measurement.

 

i have linked a pic, the red mark shows the distance whose measurement i require.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7xSQZ8U91MgcVMweV9tUDlRLWM/edit?usp=sharing

 

Thanks

 

The sleeves should slide in and stop at the appropriate point. You should not need to measure them.

post #5317 of 5768

Are there any owners of indiana rosewood cups in this thread? OR anyone who has heard a pair of headphones with indiana rosewood cups on it? If so what were the sonic qualities of the wood? Curious because I'm about to be putting full wooden cups made of indiana rosewood on my grado 325i. Also for someone who's not very handy, how difficult is it to liberate a driver and place it in a full wooden shell? Such as breaking the plastic and such. I've watched two youtube videos and it doesn't appear overtly difficult but then again, one never knows. 

post #5318 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigrisJK View Post
 

Just finished installing some Ebony cans by 7keys! Kicking up a regimen of Beethoven and other things now. First impressions, they sound great. They already obviously LOOK great.

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BwFl7fJCAAAP7wK.jpg:large

what sort of Grados were these?

post #5319 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melvins View Post
 

Are there any owners of indiana rosewood cups in this thread? OR anyone who has heard a pair of headphones with indiana rosewood cups on it? If so what were the sonic qualities of the wood? Curious because I'm about to be putting full wooden cups made of indiana rosewood on my grado 325i. Also for someone who's not very handy, how difficult is it to liberate a driver and place it in a full wooden shell? Such as breaking the plastic and such. I've watched two youtube videos and it doesn't appear overtly difficult but then again, one never knows. 

I cant speak for the Rosewood but its very easy.

 

I am the least coordinated person I know and I managed to do it from start to finish in about an hour.

 

Thats free the plastic cups with dryer, de solder the drivers, cut them out of the sleeve things, feed the wire through the wood cup hole, solder, put some tapre around driver, insert.

 

Very easy.

 

That being said, that was a pair of plastics, I would assume a pair of 325's would be much harder to liberate.

post #5320 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyd4 View Post
 

I cant speak for the Rosewood but its very easy.

 

I am the least coordinated person I know and I managed to do it from start to finish in about an hour.

 

Thats free the plastic cups with dryer, de solder the drivers, cut them out of the sleeve things, feed the wire through the wood cup hole, solder, put some tapre around driver, insert.

 

Very easy.

 

That being said, that was a pair of plastics, I would assume a pair of 325's would be much harder to liberate.

I can't solder, nor do I have a tool to even do that. The cups I'm getting dont require you to solder. or so I've been told by numerous people. that you can just break the plastic around the driver and place the cup around said driver. 

 

what tool did you use to break the plastic? I've already had some experience with this though because i used to have a pair of sr125is and i had a pair of cocobolo shells which i put on them. i heated the cups with a hair dryer and simply slid them on. it was fairly easy. I'm assuming i can just do the same technique with my current headphones. i just wanted to hear how people broke and removed the plastic around the driver. I'm worried ill be to rough or make a mistake and subsequently break the driver. 

post #5321 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melvins View Post

I can't solder, nor do I have a tool to even do that. The cups I'm getting dont require you to solder. or so I've been told by numerous people. that you can just break the plastic around the driver and place the cup around said driver. 

what tool did you use to break the plastic? I've already had some experience with this though because i used to have a pair of sr125is and i had a pair of cocobolo shells which i put on them. i heated the cups with a hair dryer and simply slid them on. it was fairly easy. I'm assuming i can just do the same technique with my current headphones. i just wanted to hear how people broke and removed the plastic around the driver. I'm worried ill be to rough or make a mistake and subsequently break the driver. 

They are SR80is.

Separating the driver from the plastic housing probably was the hardest part. I used a small handsaw and a screwdriver (to pry the gap made by the handsaw) open, and just brute force to remove it. I did not damage to the drivers at all, but some of the hard glue attaching the driver to the plastic the did stay with the driver, easily solved with some sandpaper.

There are probably better ways. But for a first mod... Remarkably easy.

Soldering, though it's been a long time since I've used a soldering iron (fixing another set of cans while traveling, actually... Long story) is suuuuper easy. But if your cups don't need it all the more power to you.


Ugh I just noticed the typos. Sorry.m been up all night and I'm typing on my phone.

Edit: because I have another pair of SR80i stock cans kicking around (broken gimbal, but that doesn't affect the sound) I've been able to do comparison listening... I would never not have woodies again, personally. This ebony sounds especially fab with detailed piano work. Been doing a lot of Claudio Arrau and other things.
Edited by TigrisJK - 8/29/14 at 3:59am
post #5322 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by TigrisJK View Post


They are SR80is.

Separating the driver from the plastic housing probably was the hardest part. I used a small handsaw and a screwdriver (to pry the gap made by the handsaw) open, and just brute force to remove it. I did not damage to the drivers at all, but some of the hard glue attaching the driver to the plastic the did stay with the driver, easily solved with some sandpaper.

There are probably better ways. But for a first mod... Remarkably easy.

Soldering, though it's been a long time since I've used a soldering iron (fixing another set of cans while traveling, actually... Long story) is suuuuper easy. But if your cups don't need it all the more power to you.


Ugh I just noticed the typos. Sorry.m been up all night and I'm typing on my phone.

Edit: because I have another pair of SR80i stock cans kicking around (broken gimbal, but that doesn't affect the sound) I've been able to do comparison listening... I would never not have woodies again, personally. This ebony sounds especially fab with detailed piano work. Been doing a lot of Claudio Arrau and other things.

 

Liberating the drivers from the plastic sleeves is easy, just be patient and careful. A handsaw or a triangular file work great for making the cut. Just watch you don't cut into the driver wall. Then use pliers or something similar (like a flatheaded screwdriver) to slowly work the sleeve away from the driver. The first time I did it I was nervous, but by the second driver I was fine.

 

Getting the aluminium cups off the 325is should not be much harder than a pair of SR80i. I no longer actually use a hairdryer when I do this part, I put the handles of two spoons back to back and put the ends between the lip of the sleeve and the bottom of the outer cup. I then squeeze, and the two spoon handles push against each other and separate the two halves...

post #5323 of 5768

 

Just bought a piece of genuine Mahogany.

In this pic you can see the cross grain configuration that makes Mahogany so stable and a great tone wood. 


Edited by 7keys - 8/30/14 at 4:23pm
post #5324 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post
 

 

Liberating the drivers from the plastic sleeves is easy, just be patient and careful. A handsaw or a triangular file work great for making the cut. Just watch you don't cut into the driver wall. Then use pliers or something similar (like a flatheaded screwdriver) to slowly work the sleeve away from the driver. The first time I did it I was nervous, but by the second driver I was fine.

 

Getting the aluminium cups off the 325is should not be much harder than a pair of SR80i. I no longer actually use a hairdryer when I do this part, I put the handles of two spoons back to back and put the ends between the lip of the sleeve and the bottom of the outer cup. I then squeeze, and the two spoon handles push against each other and separate the two halves...


yeah, it's not too bad. i had a much older sr225 where they probably used industrial glue that is no longer up to safety codes since it appeared to be "soldered" on...but i eventually was able to pry it apart. just be patient.


Edited by kugino - 8/29/14 at 5:04pm
post #5325 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post
 

Just bought a piece of genuine Mahogany.

In this pic you can see the cross grain configuration that makes Mahogany so stable and a great tone wood. 

that looks great!

 

what wood should I try and seek out to put on my 325is?

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