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post your grado mods.... - Page 346

post #5176 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by huckfinn View Post
 

Ok, thanks.

Because I can't find the youtube video mentioned before...:confused:

....but...pouring boiling water?

won't it damage the plastic casing?

 

No, it should be fine. If you are worried though, you can just push out the metal grill and put that in some boiling water.

post #5177 of 5186

ok, thanks!

post #5178 of 5186

Wow, that worked just fine!!

Now the glue, but: pouring boiling water on it just doesn't seem to do the trick...alcohol?....white spirit??

hhhmmm


One thing I'm curious about: is the plastic grill (60 and 80) as easy to get out as the metal one?
Edited by huckfinn - Yesterday at 12:42 pm
post #5179 of 5186
I found that just using a blow dryer to soften up the glue while using tweezers worked well.
post #5180 of 5186

ok, thanks

I'll give it a go

post #5181 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by huckfinn View Post
 

Wow, that worked just fine!!

Now the glue, but: pouring boiling water on it just doesn't seem to do the trick...alcohol?....white spirit??

hhhmmm


One thing I'm curious about: is the plastic grill (60 and 80) as easy to get out as the metal one?

 

Not in my experience! It's glued in place, but seems to be a different glue from the heat-activated stuff they use elsewhere. I had to break and rip out the screen, which left little bits still stuck in the inside 'lip'. 

 

I've only tried it once, though, so maybe some Grados use the heat glue and will be easier to remove?

post #5182 of 5186

Well......I suppose I'll think twice before doing it then...:D 

P.S.: excuse me for my doubts sinnottj: I know you and quite a few other have suggested gently steaming the cans to open them, and it is the method I used. Then I thought: would the steam damage somehow the drivers?

I tried other ways (hairdryer, spoon) but none worked as well, but..........:confused:


Edited by huckfinn - Today at 1:06 am
post #5183 of 5186

It's definitely a different type of glue, to remove it from the grills of my 325s I had to rip the button off, then put the grill into my fireplace for 10-15 minutes to completely melt off the glue. Obviously you can't do that with plastic grills though, so I'm guessing you'll need to use some kind of alcohol or glue remover.

post #5184 of 5186

Fireplace?

WOW!

....any thoughts about steaming the cans, maybe damaging the drivers?

post #5185 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by huckfinn View Post
 

Fireplace?

WOW!

....any thoughts about steaming the cans, maybe damaging the drivers?

 

A lot of people have described doing it this way in this (and other) threads and say it's fine.

 

I had the same concerns as you, so I've always used the haridryer method myself!

 

Also, I think emoe was talking about the glue holding the buttons to the grill (which IS hot glue, in my experience, just a lot of it) whereas I was talking about the glue that holds the plastic grill in the cup on the SR60-125, which ISN'T hot glue, as far as I can tell.

post #5186 of 5186

That's what I did to separate the metal cups from the headphones originally. I poured boiling water into a metal cooking tray, then set the metal cups into the water (about 1cm deep so the grill was submerged but it didn't reach the drivers), waited a couple of minutes, and it melted the glue keeping the driver cups inside the metal cup. Clearly, this isn't the safest method though. It worked fine for me as I didn't have a hair dryer, but I would suggest using the hair dryer if you have one available.

 

I tried the same thing for the button glue, I removed the grills and buttons, then submerged the grills in boiling water, but that didn't do the trick and I had to resort to the fireplace to get the glue off completely.

 

You might wanna try rubbing alcohol, vinegar, or a commercial glue remover. Your best bet though, in my opinion, is to just go out and buy a sheet of plastic grill, cut it to size, and replace it entirely. It'll be much easier and it's what I should've done myself for my 325s.

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