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post your grado mods.... - Page 305

post #4561 of 5186

Nicely done :)...

post #4562 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

I've been working on tweaking a pair of Padauk cups for a bit of a different appearance.  My goal was to get a finish applied that would take the wood tone a bit further away from the standard reddish / orangeish finish.  I sanded out the cups to remove the wax that had been applied for the purpose of finishing up the cups after cutting them on a lathe. With this pair of cups, I actually used about 5 coats of a dark Mission stain that came in the form of the Polyshades brand which included a satin poly mixed into the same can.  Between coats, I would take down the finish to smooth out any imperfections created by applying the finish.

 

I feel that I was able to achieve what I set out to do as my goal.  I have a pair of cups that is quite visually pleasing to me.

 

post #4563 of 5186
LMAO
post #4564 of 5186
Guinea pig pair of aluminum gimbles on my experiment set of Sr-60 cans. Rings are aluminum, rods are steel with stainless cup pins.



And these are for a fan of my work.

post #4565 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

Guinea pig pair of aluminum gimbles on my experiment set of Sr-60 cans. Rings are aluminum, rods are steel with stainless cup pins.



And these are for a fan of my work.

Those look great. How did you make them?

Also I should be getting a beta stage print from the 3D printer tomorrow! Expect some bright red plastic cups amongst the wood and aluminum!
Edited by Transformatron - 1/14/14 at 9:45pm
post #4566 of 5186
I source the appropriet size of 1/4" wall pipe and cut it to 1/4" rings with a 14" metal saw. That's the hard part, keeping the entire cut straight without it coming out angled, easier with longer sections of pipe.

Next I setup the drill press table to drill the rod hole at the same angle as grado has theirs. Then its just a mattter of lining up cup mounting pin holes and drilling them straight through, also on the press, and about two hours of progressive sanding from 100 to 800 grit to remove imperfections and finishing with aluminum mag polishing compound.

Cup pins are 1/8 rod material of choice cut so that 1/8" peptides out the size of the ring once installed.

I can get a pair done a day, but I did three sets in 8 days using all of my spare time.
post #4567 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

Guinea pig pair of aluminum gimbles on my experiment set of Sr-60 cans. Rings are aluminum, rods are steel with stainless cup pins.



And these are for a fan of my work.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

Guinea pig pair of aluminum gimbles on my experiment set of Sr-60 cans. Rings are aluminum, rods are steel with stainless cup pins.



And these are for a fan of my work.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

Guinea pig pair of aluminum gimbles on my experiment set of Sr-60 cans. Rings are aluminum, rods are steel with stainless cup pins.



And these are for a fan of my work.

Nice work!

post #4568 of 5186

Joining the club with some SR60 (not SR60i) I got off ebay. Recabled with a German Maestro cable until I get some better cable (soon), 4 vents open on the back of the driver, sanded the paint off the lettering, dynamat on the back of the driver, quarter modded, white fabric covering the grill off and i took the back grills off, but didn't have any mesh to replace it with (soon as well) so I used some old thin PX100 pads, cut down to size.

 

 

 

post #4569 of 5186
Do the older sr-60 drivers have holes on the back of the magnet assembly?
post #4570 of 5186
Yep, covered up with dynamat though.
post #4571 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by squallkiercosa View Post
 

I already talked to kopral21 to make B&W ebony cups and wanna try the px100II drivers inside. For now the whole idea is just in progress.   

hai there...

this my first atempt making black Ebony  cups design the inner cup. 

 

 

 

right now i,am still working group buy maple cup for some grado head in my country and making vented cup. hope next week all can be done .

*

 

*

post #4572 of 5186

That's excellent to hear! They look awesome to be honest. Keep me posted

post #4573 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by squallkiercosa View Post
 

That's excellent to hear! They look awesome to be honest. Keep me posted

this group buy make me tired.. making 20 set cup in 10 days. and this some finished cup :D

 *


Edited by kopral 21 - 1/16/14 at 10:57am
post #4574 of 5186

I uncovered the holes on the driver that were covered in the picture above. After looking at other peoples which have the holes uncovered.

post #4575 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by ostewart View Post

I uncovered the holes on the driver that were covered in the picture above. After looking at other peoples which have the holes uncovered.


 



a good decision - these two small holes must be open so that the membrane can move, the holes vent the inner part with the coil.
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