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post #4351 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeDoe View Post

After finally purchasing some decent (and now very obviously necessary) soldering materials the Ebonied 225is are done!

Many thanks to wje for the guidance and 7keys for the cups!

 

Real Beauties!

post #4352 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeDoe View Post

And now the Cherried MS1s!


Who made those cups?
post #4353 of 4875
Take a guess! :-)

7keys as per usual
post #4354 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by TekeRugburn View Post


That looks insane... How does it sound?

 

 I don't know, anyone try oak as a tone-wood?

post #4355 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeDoe View Post

Take a guess! :-)

7keys as per usual

Should have guessed lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

 I don't know, anyone try oak as a tone-wood?

It's just so pretty.... Excited to try out the walnut when the cups get to my turn.

I want a dark, earthy sound that has some rough edges.... Hopefully I'll find it.
post #4356 of 4875


Ye Old Oak work bench.  For those vintage drivers.

 

This is the way I'm used to seeing Oak.

 

 

 

Not like this

post #4357 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post
 


Ye Old Oak work bench.  For those vintage drivers.

 

This is the way I'm used to seeing Oak.

 

 

 

Not like this

 

wow... kinda amazed by it right now.  I don't want to jump the gun without hearing the other tone woods but wow.  

 

Hopefully it'll sound amazing!  my Grado pinks are just waiting..... thats just soooooo pretty.  

post #4358 of 4875

Hi everyone. About a year ago I purchased some mahogany cups and magnum v5 drivers from turbulent labs, as well as some nice cable from toxic cables, and set about modding my grados (sr80s). Since then I've been thinking about the mahogany cups and would love to spend some time making my own cups, as a friend of mine has his own lathe.

 

I've read so much information on this forum about cups and how different woods give the headphones a different sound. I'd really like to delve a little deeper with regards to what the cups actually do, and it would be great to hear some opinions. When I say "what they actually do", I mean technically what they do, how they physically work. The cup is open at the back, so the aim is to let sound waves/ pressure waves emanating from the rear of the driver escape rather than rebound off a closed back and cause issues.

 

So the drum of the cups shouldn't allow any waves that are meant to escape bounce around and reverberate instead, so longer cups might cause problems. In fact as well as a shorter cup length, perhaps non-parallel walls would be beneficial (eg slightly conical, widening as they get further from the driver, thus funnelling waves outwards). The finish on the inside of the cups should simply be smooth to allow the pressure waves to escape without issue.

 

With regular speaker housings the goal seems to be all about dampening. Are wooden cups used exclusively for dampening purposes? To quote What Hifi's review of the ps1000s, "The combination of [a mahogany inner core with an alloy outer-casing] self-damps to give the revised unit a solid low-resonance base to work from.

Mahogany is a tone wood though, which is likely to resonate when exposed to sound waves. But that's not what dampening is all about. Some of the other good tone woods are spruce, cedar, maple and rosewood, all with different levels of warmth (or otherwise brightness).

So with the use of wood, is the goal actually to add a little warmth to the sound by transmitting vibrations physically from the driver to the wood (by the driver being tightly fitted to the cup), thus allowing the wood to react to those vibrations and impart its own tonal additions? If pure dampening were in order then a tone wood wouldn't be that useful.

 

People have been talking on the forum about different woods, and have seemed in general to lean towards the much harder woods such as cocobolo, ebony, zebrawood, mahogany, but the theories always seem to be about the density and hardness, not about how well regarded they are as a tone wood (or indeed the opposite, how well they dampen).

 

I'd love to hear some opinions and gain a little more understanding of this subject, and if you know of any other interesting pieces of literature then I'd love to be pointed in their direction.

 

As a cheeky addition, maybe people just choose whatever wood looks the most beautiful when polished nicely?

post #4359 of 4875
Have a look at this thread for some thoughts on conical cups:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/601690/grado-sr60i-cup-tuning

Interesting discoveries...

This one is also rather long, but fascinating as well:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/592921/cup-tuning-basics
Edited by fleasbaby - 11/19/13 at 5:21pm
post #4360 of 4875
+1 on "cup tuning basics", that thread is a great read

All the harder woods you mentioned above: cocobolo, ebony, zebrawood, and mahogany are also tonewoods albeit harder denser ones. If you do a google search for tonewood properties you will pull some great articles, especially from guitar builders, about the various properties of these woods.

That said, I don't think dampening is the goal of wood cups, but rather resonance due to the open cup design. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken, but dampening is better served in a closed back design.

I like you am traveling down the same road at the moment researching different woods, finishes and cup dimensions. Good luck ... wink.gif
post #4361 of 4875
What happened o everyone stating black limba was the optimal wood? Its cheap, easy to get on the bay, and is used by a lot of instrument makers. And if you get the right cut, its beautiful. Ill post a pic of a toy I made for my son in a bit.
post #4362 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by hemipowered007 View Post

What happened o everyone stating black limba was the optimal wood? Its cheap, easy to get on the bay, and is used by a lot of instrument makers. And if you get the right cut, its beautiful. Ill post a pic of a toy I made for my son in a bit.
I'm all for limba, but it seems different wood gives different effects in different drivers so there is not one solution for all.
post #4363 of 4875
Im just commenting on the fact that it doesn't get mentioned at all anymore on any grado or magnum thread. Its lost...
post #4364 of 4875
post #4365 of 4875

Right, my grados are currently vinyl headband-less and I need a replacement. What options do I have that are low cost? will this do the job? Also can anyone recommend me any 3.5mm jack to jack cables that dont cost a lot that wont break with 2 weeks of usage?

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