Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › post your grado mods....
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

post your grado mods.... - Page 276

post #4126 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post

i made this prototype by just combining two of my modded headphones, this was very easy as all the parts are compatible (filter rings), and then i used two portable amplifiers to separately drive the primary and rear drivers and to adjust volume and the balance between primary and rear drivers.

.....
 
all the wooden parts for example are drilled and shaped out of solid blocks of balsa wood, always in parallel to the structure of the wood, you always need two parts, they always must or should be identical in size and shape, so this is really time consuming (but i think worth the effort).

 

 

(the wood disks shown in the pictures are not balsa wood)

 

yes, my first wooden sleeves were made putting pieces of balsa wood into the water and then bending them, but this is not very effectice, they always broke into several parts.


Edited by GermanGuy - 10/21/13 at 7:25pm
post #4127 of 5725

Austonia - here are three posts i published some time ago also mentioning the filter rings and sizes i used!

Quote:

Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

thanks for your response and interest! at the moment my mobile flat has reached its limit so everything is very slow, will start more detailed posts after 4th of may. nevertheless i want to give you some idea of what i have done in this area.

 

after a while and trying to enhance bass quality and depth not only with custom bowls and venting the driver (usually all holes, it gives you the best speed, detail and soundstage i found the plastic housings to be the problem.

 

so i looked fore something round with different diameters, expandable in length, cheap and fitting the size requirements to load a grado driver. i also did some measurement about sizes of driver, bowls etc. and found a silly easy way to build a custom aluminium housing with variable size and diameter:

 

- simply fotofilter rings and adapters !

 

 

here is a picture of my latest mod, its a grado style headphone where i used the grado headband, parts of the cable and sr80i drivers (just today i replaced them with turbulent labs x drivers).

 

it is funny that a step up adapter 49mm to 52 mm has just the size to apply bowls or g-cushions on the 52mm side while the driver just fits stable on the 49mm side.

 

 

 

if you then add a 49mm filter ring, you have a replaceable driver unit, with the next additional 49mm filter ring also with a hole for the cable. to replace the driver with another one you just have to opeb the step up ring, solder a new driver with the cable and close it again.

 

afterr a step down adapter 52mm to 49mm you can add as much 52 mm filter ring up to the length were you find your best balance between bass, soundstage and imaging. at this point you can close the housing by just using a step up 49 to 52mm adapter

 

modded sr325is

 

or as i have done (see first picture) use step up and step down rings 52mm to 67mm to have the (whats the name for the ¨Gitter¨ ?metal part at the end closing the headphone, starting with sr225i made out of metal ??) Gitter covered with wood. (comment - i have leared now that gitter is metal mesh)

 

i wanted to get samething similar to the wooden sound of the big grados so i tried different kinds of wood finally choosing Balsa-Wood (In Germany called Balsa, its the i think lightest wood on earth and easy to manufacture, sounds great, easy to get it to resonate).

 

after trying to made rings with different technics i bought all the tools and learned to produce rings out a one single massive piece of wood.

 

So after you have built the aluminium housing out of rings, connect the cable, insert the wood rings, close the housing and you are ready to enjoy a great sounding grado style headphone with complete wooden inlay.

 

 

 

Thats all.

 

By the way the result is great sounding, you can´t hear even the smallest resonance or accoustical sign that there is a housing, just music around your head. as a short note, everything i did was crosschecked and listened to by to good friends who with no respect to any friendship gave me all the critics and points of improvement you need not to run into a single corner.

 

p.s. the typing errors are mainly caused by typing this whole post with my tablet, beg your pardon for that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

just wanted to post my latest 'photo filter adapters and rings' grado mod:

 

i used the following parts:

 

- beyerdynamic t50p headband

- 2 metal rings normally used to keep keys together

- a sr225i cable

- 2 bowls

- 2 sieves normally used for tea

- 2 sr80i drivers all holes vented

 

2x from driver to sieve:

 

- step up adapter 49mm to 55mm to put the bowls over

- step down adapter 52mm to 49mm

- step up adapter 49mm to 52mm

- step up adapter 52mm to 82mm

- step down adapter 82mm to 67mm

 

the result is an excellent sounding headphone with a rich and full bodied, more on the warm side sound, enough detail is there, but not even the smallest idea of harsh highs, nice bass extension, tight and controlled, and a very good soundstage width and depth. nevertheless it has this intimate grado sound, you are sitting first row.

 

the only point i think of is to add a ring of foam rubber to have sligthly more highs.

 

 

 

 

 

 


(the felt disk on the headband was just placed there to remember me not to forget to dampen the driver)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

this is the continuation of my last post http://www.head-fi.org/t/119314/post-your-grado-mods/3300#post_9564376 with a more detailed description of the construction and some finetuning:

 

 

this is the driver side. the driver exactly fits between a step up adapter ring 49mm to 55mm, followed by a step down 52mm to 49mm and a step up 49mm to 52mm adapter ring.

 

the following step up 52mm to 82mm and a step down 82mm to 67mm adapter ring are then used to hold the sieve used as mesh. you can see that the metal (key)ring to hold the headband just fits into the slit between the two adapter rings.

 

 

this is a top view of the driver unit.

 

.

if you remove the step down 82mm to 67mm adapter ring, the sieve placed above the driver can be seen. i made a small slit in the outer ring of the sieve for the cable.

 

if you remove the sieve you can see the driver and how the cable is placed. in addition you can see two felt discs glued onto the driver, the inner one has holes on each side not to cover the driver magnet holes.

 

finetuning:

 

after some listening i found there were some bass resonances and also i wanted slighty more treble and detail.

 

 

i added a small foam rubber ring around the driver and

 

a large foam rubber ring to absorb resonances caused by reflections on the metal.

 

after placing the sieve in the middle and closing the driver unit with the step down 82mm to 67mm adapter ring the driver unit is ready.

 

i did this with both drivers. the result is an even more deep but dry bass, also treble and detail is increased to a level that while the overall sound is on the warm side the sound is coherent from the low to the top end ( beg your pardon for my limited ability to descibe sound in english words).

 

in one of my next posts i will write something more detailed about driver dampening an materials i tested.


Edited by GermanGuy - 10/22/13 at 2:22am
post #4128 of 5725

Austonia and wje  - and here a post with links to some of the tools i used.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

"EF88 - I just have one question...how did you make the wooden sleeve inside the cup? Thanks for this great contribution!"

 

i bought all the tools and learned (the hard way) how to make sleeves. have to retrieve a lot of english words to explain it correctly, at the moment i just post some of the tools i used:

 

http://www.amazon.de/MICROMOT-Bohrst%C3%A4nder-MB-140-S/dp/B000209ZAE/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250481&sr=8-36&keywords=proxxon

 

http://www.amazon.de/Proxxon-28128-Tischbohrmaschine-TBM-220/dp/B002K9XR18/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250481&sr=8-42&keywords=proxxon

 

http://www.amazon.de/Teilapparat-f%C3%BCr-Microfr%C3%A4se-MF-70/dp/B0016KFVVG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250571&sr=8-2&keywords=proxxon+teilapparat

 

http://www.amazon.de/Proxxon-27100-MICRO-Koordinatentisch-KT/dp/B000S81MHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250602&sr=8-1&keywords=proxxon+kt70

 

http://www.amazon.de/Wolfcraft-5474000-Lochs%C3%A4ge-komplett-Sechskant-Schaft/dp/B001S2R4HG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250685&sr=8-4&keywords=holz++kernbohrer    in different sizes

 

http://www.amazon.de/Br%C3%BCder-Mannesmann-M-352-550-Pr%C3%A4zisions-Gehrungss%C3%A4ge/dp/B000B9RJXG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250761&sr=8-1&keywords=gehrungss%C3%A4ge

 

http://www.amazon.de/Metabo-602137500-Akku-Bohrschrauber-Impuls-Akkus/dp/B0029ZX0UQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250870&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=metabo+lt14+handbohr

 

http://www.amazon.de/Wolfcraft-5027000-1-Bohrst%C3%A4nder/dp/B003TWVBEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250895&sr=8-2&keywords=wolfcraft+bohrst%C3%A4nder

 

http://www.amazon.de/Wolfcraft-3410000-Universal-Schraubstock-Backenbreite-100/dp/B0001P19HC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1370250895&sr=8-4&keywords=wolfcraft+bohrst%C3%A4nder

 

... i stop here ...  not posting all the small tools i bought and use, spent about 3500 Euros not only for wood working, but also general tools, everything around soldering and electronics, cableling and recableling ... and even a MilliGramm(resolution 0.001 gramms)  scale to have exactly the same amount of dampening material one both sides of the headphone (when i use for example cotton wool):

 

http://www.amazon.de/Kalibriergewicht-Feinwaage-Juwelierwaage-Pr%C3%A4zisonswaage-Digitalwaage/dp/B003KN4TD8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1370251080&sr=8-10&keywords=waage+milligramm

 

So the sleeves are made in the same way as other people may do it:

 

- cut large rings out of a solid piece of wood

- shape it using the tools above

 

- the only difference is that i have no CNC system, so everything is done manually. Will post some pictures later in this thread


Edited by GermanGuy - 10/21/13 at 7:01pm
post #4129 of 5725

@GermanGuy - this is just the most novel and interesting mod I've seen in a very long time.  Just really neat.  So odd, yet the most creative and outside of the box audio device I've seen.

 

If I find the time, I need to try this.  I think I have some spare 80's drivers sitting around.  You Crazy.

 

Quote:
 LL
LL
post #4130 of 5725

subscribed

post #4131 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlantinen View Post
 

@GermanGuy - this is just the most novel and interesting mod I've seen in a very long time.  Just really neat.  So odd, yet the most creative and outside of the box audio device I've seen.

 

If I find the time, I need to try this.  I think I have some spare 80's drivers sitting around.  You Crazy.

 

oh wow!

to hear this from you, as i think you are Martin from Martin custom audio, a site i am always looking at because of your unbelievable manufacturing skills, quality and outstanding looking products, more a kind of art than only headphones, i feel really really more than only honored (have to go to the small lake nearby today in the evening  to test if i now can walk over the water :smile:).

 

Thank you all VERY much for the appreciation of my ideas !!!

 

GermanGuy


Edited by GermanGuy - 10/22/13 at 2:24am
post #4132 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

 

yes, my first wooden sleeves were made putting pieces of balsa wood into the water and then bending them, but this is not very effectice, they always broke into several parts.

 

Thanks for confirming that you use blocks of balsa wood.  I think here in the U.S. I'm just used to seeing the flat and smaller pieces of balsa that they sell in the craft stores.  They don't have a heavier or bulkier stock and suspect one would have to order online to get something sufficient.

 

Your handy work with the drill press is pretty impressive ... and accurate.  Perhaps, you should consider a career in brain surgery?  

post #4133 of 5725
Subbed
post #4134 of 5725
Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeDoe View Post


 

This Headphone looks really beautiful!

post #4135 of 5725
Well thank you! It's for sale too!
post #4136 of 5725

a question to all the wooden cup makers:

 

i tried different ways to make the inner wooden parts and the sleeves for my headphones and finally drilled and shaped the parts out of massive blocks of balsa wood, but finally always

 

- in parallel to the fiber structure of the wood

 

because so the resulting wooden parts are absolutely homogenous, the fiber length is always the same. drilling and shaping them at an angle of 90 degrees would result in for example long wood fibers left and right, but short wood fibers top and bottom (looking down to the metal mesh side)

 

if i look at the pictures of the very nice and beautifuly made cups, most or all of them are drilled or shaped out of solid wood but at an angle of 90 degrees to the wood fibre structure.

 

- is there a reason for that?

- anyone made wooden cups drilled in parallel to the fiber structure?

- any sonic differences?


Edited by GermanGuy - 10/26/13 at 2:27am
post #4137 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

After a long time of not beeing active in this thread i wanted to post my latest grado mod i did some month ago:

 

based on a very similar mod i posted before with sr80i drivers i wanted to do a kind of final mod optimized for

 

- soundstage

 

- bass quality and depth

 

- linearity

 

- better drivers for improved highs, resolution, imaging and detail

 

 

 

as i did not want to disassemble another headphone with sr325is drivers, i bought two turbulent lab X drivers for this headphone (all holes vented):

 

 

 

<br />

 

 

 

as usual the complete aluminium housing is made out of photo filter rings and adaptors, here you see both sides of the headphone:

 

<br />

 

This time i used two small tea filters as mesh:

 

<br />

 

i used a sr225i 8 wire grado cable, removed the outer cable sheath on both sides of the y-split and used some shrink-on tube to apply the new one:

 

<br />

 

<br />

 

This time i made a complete inner balsa wood sleeve from driver to mesh:

 

the ring and wooden sleeve around the mesh improves soundstage width, in the same time the precision and quality of both bass and highs, but the overall sound slighty moves to the brighter side and the higher the ring around the mesh, the more 2 dimensional the soundstage will be, you loose soundstage depth, so some testing and listening required to find a good compromise:

 

<br />

 

<br />

 

i spent a lot of time optimizing the wooden parts. for example the inner sleeve's thickness and shape is important for a good balance between bass and high frequencies, the best solution was a sleeve with round inner shape you can see here:

 

<br />

 

at first i had the problem that i missed soundstage depth when the rings around the mesh were just ideal for the overall precision and soundstage width until i learned that the soundstage depth can be improved and adjusted by a wooden disc above the driver so not only damping the driver with one felt disc. after a lot of testing and listening i found this combination as optimum. if you add too much length here you loose precision, the highs are absorbed and also soundstage width is decreased.

 

Also you can see the filter rings filled with a foam rubber ring to have a resonant free and fixed contact between alumininium housing and wooden sleeve:

 

<br />

 

the complete headphone can be disassembled, the only fixed connections are the four soldering points for the drivers:

 

<br />

 

soundwise, the resulting headphone is very linear from top to bottom end, has a very deep and precise, highly textured bass and also a really good resolution, imaging and fine detail, i think limited by the Turbulent Lab X drivers. the imaging is slightly less pinpoint-like than my t5p or the hd800.

 

the soundstage is clearly wider than the soundstage of my hd800, the overall presentation nevertheless is more grado-like, you are sitting first row, all the objects are slightly larger as when listening with the hd800, where i have the feeling to sit in the 10th row.

 

For me this is my perfect headphone (at the moment?) as it has the soundstage, bass quality and depth i always wanted but nevertheless sounds like a grado. the only point of improvement i could think of at the moment is to implement some sr325is drivers or to wait until i get my hands on some rs1i drivers.

 

Interestingly i have stopped modding grados as i am really happy now.

 

but

 

- last week bought and extracted the drivers of an iGrado to build a low cost low weight portable open grado

 

- and i made and had a prototype of a CLOSED grado running with no sound degradation compared to an open one so now i know how to do it but have to improve my manufacturing skills to build something i can post here.

 

I am a Grado neophyte. I do not like the exaggerated highs from SR-80. I assumed All Grados were voiced the same until I heard PS-1000 which sounds wonderful to me.

 

I am intrigued by your Grado mods and have something in mind if I can get the sound approaching/matching the PS-1000 drivers without having to buy the complete headphone. 

 

Does anyone know which Grado driver the Turbulent X driver most resembles?

 

Many thanks!

post #4138 of 5725

GermanGuy - appreciate the link to your old posts. this is a lot to think about..... I see you used Turbulent X drivers, what is your opinion of them? would you do more custom builds with them, or would you rather use genuine Grado drivers?

 

at the moment i am  interested in improving comfort between pads and ear. i used some 225s the other day for about 12 hours and the back part of my ear kept getting irritated. the 225s are pretty light, and there's not much clamping force so I am wondering if foam is just not the ideal material, for long sessions anyway. i usually settle on reversed Sennheiser 414 pads. the G cush pads are not irritating, but they act like earmuffs and my ears get too warm.

 

i'm curious, has anyone tried to make pads out of supple leather (or similar material), as with some other high end models? i haven't seen a single example for Grados

post #4139 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

I am a Grado neophyte. I do not like the exaggerated highs from SR-80. I assumed All Grados were voiced the same until I heard PS-1000 which sounds wonderful to me.

I am intrigued by your Grado mods and have something in mind if I can get the sound approaching/matching the PS-1000 drivers without having to buy the complete headphone. 

Does anyone know which Grado driver the Turbulent X driver most resembles?
Many thanks!

Keith,

After being able to finally afford the RS1i and the PS-500 as well as having owned the GS-1000 and many of the other models, I don't think that the Turbulent Labs "X" driver really comes close to sounding like any real Grado driver in particular. I've owned previous generations of Magnum drivers (v. 3.5 and v. 4) which is why I've had a wanted ad in the F/S forum looking for a pair of drivers from that era. I wanted to run them through a test to be able to see, and hear, what it was that I so gloriously loved a few years back. To me, they sounded above what the SR-225i could produce, yet I'm not sure if I'd rank the refinement of the Magnum driver up where the RS1i sits.

The Magnum really works hard at trying to do a stellar job at giving us a lot at each frequency point, but then there are times when I feel that such an approach by a driver kind of overshoots our goals. With that said, I'm almost convinced that the RS1i really does a lot of things right. It's polite when it has to be, but then it can really shine when vocal depth, string instruments or percussion get called upon. The PS-500 has been labeled the "little brother" to the PS-1000. But, I think the PS-500 might try a bit hard, too. I feel that it is an agressive driver and there are times when I can feel that the sound being produced is a bit thick. I don't notice this in the RS1i. I'm curious, though, and would love to hear the PS-1000 next to my PS-500 to see how they really compare. I didn't properly put my PS-500 through the necessary paces to compare it to the Magnum X. but feel that there "may" be some similarities - when I go from memory on sound capability of each driver. The PS-500, to me, sounds like an overachiever just like the Magnum X.

With my PS-500, I use them with the G-Cush as the PS-500 has a very good amount of bass and being that the G-Cush can negate some of the bass in your typical Grado headphone, the PS-500 does well with those pads since it has a bit of bass to spare. I'm not as fond of the PS-500 with the L-Cush, TTVJ Flats or the Sennheiser HD-414 pads when used in the reverse quarter modification scenario.
post #4140 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by austonia View Post


i'm curious, has anyone tried to make pads out of supple leather (or similar material), as with some other high end models? i haven't seen a single example for Grados

Actually, this has just been discussed a bit recently. There used to be a great tutorial with pictures on encasing a pair of Grado pads in leather. The unfortunate part, however, is that the thread and the images, no longer exist.

However, the following thread has some great information in the first post about leather covered Grado pads, along with pictures.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/611982/the-stratokosster-a-closed-diy-headphone-based-on-the-koss-ksc-75-driver-and-grado-cup-design

Here's is also a thread where some leather Grado ear pad covers were sold with a pair of headphones. These leather covers were produced as a prototype by Turbulent Labs as I think they were seeking to find a manufacturer who could produce enough of these to be avaiable for purchase. I don't know the exact answer, but I think it had something to do with the production of such covers couldn't be done by the vendor that was being reviewed.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/644684/grado-sr80i-l-cush-leather-ear-pads-beyer-headband-fits-on-grado

Also, I think Modular is looking into a project of working with materials to cover a pair of Grado L-Cush pads. I read a post of his about 3 weeks ago to reflect that information. He's the guy who basically took the JergPads for the HifiMan HE-400 and then worked on several pair of modified pads to make them available by forum members at a cost that basically just covered the materials, as well as the shipping to get them to you. The unfortunate part is that it's hard to be able to commit to more than 15 or 20 members at a time since this is basically a hobby for a lot of members here and not their full-time job. This past weekend, I was able to procure a nice section of upholstery quality suede. It is black in color, but resembles the type of material used by Audeze in their vegan-style ear pads for those who don't want leather pads.

I think there's going to be more information in this area over the next month or so. Whether it equates to people being able to purchase such a pad / product, or whether a tutorial gets posted here on the forum ... the likelyhood is quite good.

Stay tuned ...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › post your grado mods....