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post your grado mods.... - Page 266

post #3976 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritterkreuz View Post
 

 

Anyhelp please? Also, should I pick L cush for sr80i or G cush?

 

Of the 3, Afzelia xylocarpa is used in musical instruments.  Assuming you're talking about wood cups, I'd go with that one.

 

7Keys, I'm very interested in hearing your results.  I'd love a comparison, especially when I get ready to woody my Grados.

post #3977 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

No I don't:/

That's too bad, I'd like to have you involved............but........... can't really afford to send drivers with the cups.

post #3978 of 5768

3D printed some parts to mount my RS2i onto a beyer headband..Pads are from headphile.

 

 

 

 

post #3979 of 5768
I'll see what I can do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

No I don't:/
That's too bad, I'd like to have you involved............but........... can't really afford to send drivers with the cups.
post #3980 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeSwag View Post

3D printed some parts to mount my RS2i onto a beyer headband..Pads are from headphile.












Very nice!
post #3981 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaco17 View Post


Very nice!

 

There's a vendor on Ebay that sells the components to mount the grey Beyerdynamic onto the discs which adhere to the Grado cups.  The cost is $99.00 though.  I'm not sure if the pads are included.

post #3982 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidzoo View Post
 

 

Of the 3, Afzelia xylocarpa is used in musical instruments.  Assuming you're talking about wood cups, I'd go with that one.

 

7Keys, I'm very interested in hearing your results.  I'd love a comparison, especially when I get ready to woody my Grados.

 

I thought it was pretty obvious that I'm talking about wood cups material.

 

Quote:

 Go for the L cush. The G cush will change the sound too much.
 Probably L Cush. G Cush gives more space but at small loss in detail and bass. L Cush is a happy medium.
 
That settled it.
 
Thanks alot guys :wink_face:
post #3983 of 5768

I was going to mod my own SR60i headphones that I am receiving next week, and I do not have access to any other grado phones. I may have a chance to make wood cups  this weekend, but I do not have the headphone to measure out. I want to alter the design below as I want to make a full cup design, with a fully liberated driver.

 

I was wondering:

-Recommended total length for these types of cups are

-The inner Diameter to hold the fully removed driver

-If the part of the cup near the back that holds the pads (the channel) needs specific dimensions or will any dimensions work

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ch4rAss View Post
 

GRADO SR80i - Cover.png

I made drawing of SR80 cover.. Enjoy


Edited by gamefreak054 - 10/2/13 at 3:08pm
post #3984 of 5768

I used those drawings for reference when I did my first set of wood cups. They came out well!

 

Now working on a set of custom aluminum gimbals. :)

post #3985 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post
 

I’m not sure Yellow Birch should be in with this group but what other North American tone-wood is up there with Maple, Walnut and Black Cherry?

 

 

 

If you look at common woods used in guitars, there are the tone woods used primarily for the backs and sides and then the tone woods for the soundboards (which have an even bigger impact on the overall tone). But, they may be too resonant, but if you want to try: Sitka Spruce, Western Red Cedar, Adirondack Red Spruce.

 

One wood I would highly recommend trying is Koa from Hawaii. It is regularly used for backs and sides and is strong enough for soundboards when the boards are cut with the best quarter sawn heart wood. 

For your work, even chunks from the stumps left over from the Koa trees could work very well. 

 

Myrtle wood is also a tone wood that has grown in its use as a tone wood: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umbellularia

It is a Pacific Coast wood from CA and OR. 

post #3986 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by notben View Post
 

 

If you look at common woods used in guitars, there are the tone woods used primarily for the backs and sides and then the tone woods for the soundboards (which have an even bigger impact on the overall tone). But, they may be too resonant, but if you want to try: Sitka Spruce, Western Red Cedar, Adirondack Red Spruce.

 

One wood I would highly recommend trying is Koa from Hawaii. It is regularly used for backs and sides and is strong enough for soundboards when the boards are cut with the best quarter sawn heart wood. 

For your work, even chunks from the stumps left over from the Koa trees could work very well. 

 

Myrtle wood is also a tone wood that has grown in its use as a tone wood: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umbellularia

It is a Pacific Coast wood from CA and OR. 

Thanks!

Myrtle wood sounds interesting but I have to go with what is available to me.

 

I can't use Koa in the North American Tone-Wood cup review, I would like to give it a listen though.


Edited by 7keys - 10/3/13 at 9:41am
post #3987 of 5768

A little update on the Grado tone-Wood cup review.

 

I cut the Walnut cups down so they’re all the same size, fit the cups for drivers and ear-pads then put a little oil on them.  Need to oil thee up for the big competition. In the next couple of day I’ll drill hole for the headband and cut slits in the side for easy driver switching. I’ll give them a listen for a couple of days and then ship them out to Ahorsenamedfeff .

 

And then it will be sent to either coladdic or Kvtaco17.

 

Once the first review is finished we'll start a new thread.

post #3988 of 5768

Well, I have small sketch made up. Right now I need a confirmation on the outer diameter of the driver (not the plastic housing). From what I read it is 1.5 inches, can some one confirm this? Also the width of the driver would helpful, but I think I can design a cup without needing it.

 

Otherwise I will be making a drawing on autocad tonight, and will be share the drawing of a full cup design. Instead of the half cups most people have drawn on here.

post #3989 of 5768
The Turbulent X drivers are meant to be 45.8 mm wide and 11.1 deep (had someone measure a pair with digital calipers. Wje also posted some measurements...I forget where though...silly me.
post #3990 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleasbaby View Post

The Turbulent X drivers are meant to be 45.8 mm wide and 11.1 deep (had someone measure a pair with digital calipers. Wje also posted some measurements...I forget where though...silly me.

 

Thanks for the help. This is quite a bit different than the other measurement I read. 

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