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post your grado mods.... - Page 261

post #3901 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by westinlennox View Post

 The trouble I have run into is finding the wood for the project.

Here's another guy looking for wood near Seattle. 

 

 

((( I too am always on the lookout for hardwoods. Here are my thoughts. Edensaw in Tacoma is veneers only, no dimensional lumber (at least that was what I was told). Edensaw in Pt Townsend is a candy store for the woodworker. If you have a business lic, register with them and get a nice discount and tax free if for resale. The other stores usually buy from Edensaw, at least I know the Sumner Woodworkers Store does, so you’ll beat their prices by going to Pt Townsend. Now, if you want turning stock (and some dimensional) look at theboardhoarder.com in Kirkland (not far from Totem Lake area). Steve has a very nice selection and you can’t beat his prices. He works out of his garage. You won’t be disappointed. I was looking for some 14” maple burl peppermill blanks online and found several at Steve’s for a fraction of the price online. Trust me, worth the trip. Give him a call.)

-- Jim Roberts, Port Orchard Washington

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post #3902 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

If you try this...don't do it free hand like this guy, use a drill press.

I did my cups freehand (avatar pic), and carved out most of the inside shape freehand with a rotary tool.

I can testify that this isn't the best way to do it, but if it's just scrap wood (like mine) and you're just testing different styles or colours for fun, it can work out.

 

Because I cut my cups straight through in one go - not meeting in the middle from both sides. 


Edited by GREQ - 9/3/13 at 12:54pm
post #3903 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

I did my cups freehand (avatar pic), and carved out most of the inside shape freehand with a rotary tool.

I can testify that this isn't the best way to do it, but if it's just scrap wood (like mine) and you're just testing different styles or colours for fun, it can work out.

 

Because I cut my cups straight through in one go - not meeting in the middle from both sides. 

Yes, but you didn't make a lip for the screen.

You can make a lip for the screen cutting only one side, you don't have to meet in the middle like this guy does.

He does it the hard way.

 

I made this cup using the hole saw method....cutting only one side.

notice the size of the inner and outer lips.


Edited by 7keys - 9/3/13 at 2:19pm
post #3904 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

I did my cups freehand (avatar pic), and carved out most of the inside shape freehand with a rotary tool.

I can testify that this isn't the best way to do it, but if it's just scrap wood (like mine) and you're just testing different styles or colours for fun, it can work out.

 

Because I cut my cups straight through in one go - not meeting in the middle from both sides. 

Yes, but you didn't make a lip for the screen.

You can make a lip for the screen cutting only one side, you don't have to meet in the middle like this guy does.

He does it the hard way.

 

I made this cup using the hole saw method....cutting only one side.

notice the size of the inner and outer lips.

 

Oh but I did - I carved it out tediously with a rotary tool. :rolleyes:

 

I basically cut two different size holes leaving myself with a wooden cylinder. 
Then I used a 'cutter' rotary bit to carve out on one side leaving the 'lip', then I used a rotary sander when I was happy with most of it being carved out to smooth things out. 

 

That's how I got my woven grills to stay in place.

post #3905 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Oh but I did - I carved it out tediously with a rotary tool. :rolleyes:

 

I basically cut two different size holes leaving myself with a wooden cylinder. 
Then I used a 'cutter' rotary bit to carve out on one side leaving the 'lip', then I used a rotary sander when I was happy with most of it being carved out to smooth things out. 

 

That's how I got my woven grills to stay in place.

I see.

 

There's many ways to skin a cat. :smile:

 

I always have trouble with those cool cats that don't want to be skinned.;)


Edited by 7keys - 9/3/13 at 2:34pm
post #3906 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 

Also don't forget about Vibro-labs/Turbulent-labs they make a beautiful (classic) wooden cup for $110.00U.S. I put them on my SR80i's, and they are really, really nice!!!

You must liberate the drivers.

 

Actually, if you check out Ebay, you can get the same cups for $95.00 with free shipping. Buy them direct from the creator.  Virbro Labs / Turbulent has to make a bit of profit, so the costs are slightly higher.  BTW, nothing against Turbulent Labs -- I think they're  a great company.  However us audio enthusiasts need to save a few bucks because our next upgrade is usually just around the corner and we'll need all the coin we can get to fund the upgrade.

post #3907 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

 

Actually, if you check out Ebay, you can get the same cups for $95.00 with free shipping. Buy them direct from the creator.  Virbro Labs / Turbulent has to make a bit of profit, so the costs are slightly higher.  BTW, nothing against Turbulent Labs -- I think they're  a great company.  However us audio enthusiasts need to save a few bucks because our next upgrade is usually just around the corner and we'll need all the coin we can get to fund the upgrade.

I wasn't quite sure how Turbulent labs came into the picture, when I bought my cups I don't believe they where mentioned at all, but now going on the site it seems the two companies have joined together (I'm not sure), but anyway they make a really nice (classic) style cup, I thought for the price.

post #3908 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post
 

Also don't forget about Vibro-labs/Turbulent-labs they make a beautiful (classic) wooden cup for $110.00U.S. I put them on my SR80i's, and they are really, really nice!!!

You must liberate the drivers.

 

I put these on my SR325i's,plus their brown leather headband.They sound much better and look great...:gs1000smile:.

post #3909 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by wallace View Post
 

I put these on my SR325i's,plus their brown leather headband.They sound much better and look great...:gs1000smile:.

 

Plus, your SR-325is is also a bit lighter, too. This can be a big bonus!

post #3910 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by wallace View Post
 

 

I put these on my SR325i's,plus their brown leather headband.They sound much better and look great...:gs1000smile:.

How about a picture?

post #3911 of 5740

Hi,my SR325i's now..I am using TTVJ Flats on them at the moment.


Edited by wallace - 9/7/13 at 12:56am
post #3912 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by wallace View Post
 

Hi,my SR325i's now..I am using TTVJ Flats on them at the moment.

 

*SNIP*

 

 

Nice!  :beerchug:

post #3913 of 5740

Those "Vibro" cups look really nice.  They really up the appearance by 10 bonus points.  Plus, the improved sound adds more points.  I was going to opt for a pair, but just had the thought that I'd have to use the driver rings to fit into the cups to hold the drivers, too.  This is a bit different than liberating a driver or buying a Magnum driver to press into the wooden cups.

post #3914 of 5740

How are the TTVJ pads?

post #3915 of 5740
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

Those "Vibro" cups look really nice.  They really up the appearance by 10 bonus points.  Plus, the improved sound adds more points.  I was going to opt for a pair, but just had the thought that I'd have to use the driver rings to fit into the cups to hold the drivers, too.  This is a bit different than liberating a driver or buying a Magnum driver to press into the wooden cups.

 

You have to liberate the drivers to fit the Vibro cups.wrap them in foam tape and press in,same as the magnum driver.You just need a hacksaw,pliers and nerves of steel.

:eek::D

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