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post your grado mods.... - Page 255

post #3811 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

How does Grado service them when a driver fails? Do they replace the entire cup with the driver or do they extract and replace the driver?

I would assume extraction, so they could troubleshoot/diagnose possible solder issues, or replace the cable.

Or do they replace the entire unit wth the RS series woodies?

 

I hardly think that Grado would destroy a pair of their exotic mahogany cups for such a process.  Through some research, I was looking into methods for dissolving glue.  There was some good information on the the Titebond site.  But, it really depends on the type of glue that is utilized.  Some glue will soften with just the use of a little drop of water.  Other glues might require the use of a small amount of acetone.  I'll keep looking.  I'm confident there's a capable way of doing so without making toothpicks out of pair of Grado cups. eek.gif

post #3812 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

How does Grado service them when a driver fails? Do they replace the entire cup with the driver or do they extract and replace the driver?

I would assume extraction, so they could troubleshoot/diagnose possible solder issues, or replace the cable.

Or do they replace the entire unit wth the RS series woodies?

 

I hardly think that Grado would destroy a pair of their exotic mahogany cups for such a process.  Through some research, I was looking into methods for dissolving glue.  There was some good information on the the Titebond site.  But, it really depends on the type of glue that is utilized.  Some glue will soften with just the use of a little drop of water.  Other glues might require the use of a small amount of acetone.  I'll keep looking.  I'm confident there's a capable way of doing so without making toothpicks out of pair of Grado cups. eek.gif

I think I read somewhere that Gradolabs have a special very-low-heat oven they put the cups in to melt the glue away very slowly. 
I'm almost certain I read that around here.

post #3813 of 5431
That sounds very familiar to me too...
post #3814 of 5431

That's how we used to separate the plastic cups, too.  People would make a small water bath, where the hot water would steam a bit and the glue would release.  Also, I've done it before on plastic cups with my heat gun.  I used a low heat setting and kept rotating the cups.  Though, I'm not sure what the effects would be if the wooden cups were handled this way.  I'd hate the heat to mess up the finish.

 

I'll keep looking.

post #3815 of 5431
I never implied that Grado would destroy anything. The purpose of my post was that there must be SOME was to go about extracting the driver without damaging anything.
post #3816 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

Also, by chance, do you have any advice on how the driver removal process from the RS1i took place?  Was the glue softened, so the drivers could be extracted from the wooden cups?  I'm interested in finding this information because my own pair of RS1i headphones on their way to me will require a cable replacement.  Thanks!

 

 

I removed a pair of drivers from some GS-1000's recently. You wouldn't believe how easy they were to remove. All I had to do was slowly peal the glue back around the edge of the driver and then they literally almost fell out. One of them "caught" on the lip of the cup (driver would only go about half way out) as I was trying to remove it so I used an xacto knife to clean up one little nick. I think it took about 5 minutes to remove them and I was very careful. These were not the i model so I don't know if the glue has changed or maybe loosened up over time...maybe I just got lucky.

 

I've been meaning to post some pictures. I'm almost done. So far I recabled them with a Cardas headphone cable and furutech carbon fiber plug. Has a Jmoney headband. I still want to upgrade the gimbals, chrome the screens, add a braided wrap to the cable, and possibly play with the damping.

 

 

 

post #3817 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

 

I removed a pair of drivers from some GS-1000's recently. You wouldn't believe how easy they were to remove. All I had to do was slowly peal the glue back around the edge of the driver and then they literally almost fell out. One of them "caught" on the lip of the cup (driver would only go about half way out) as I was trying to remove it so I used an xacto knife to clean up one little nick. I think it took about 5 minutes to remove them and I was very careful. These were not the i model so I don't know if the glue has changed or maybe loosened up over time...maybe I just got lucky.

 

I've been meaning to post some pictures. I'm almost done. So far I recabled them with a Cardas headphone cable and furutech carbon fiber plug. Has a Jmoney headband. I still want to upgrade the gimbals, chrome the screens, add a braided wrap to the cable, and possibly play with the damping.

 

*snip

 

that's great man!

 

I was also thinking of what Grado uses for repairing their woodys. All I could think about was some special solvent or heat, but I kept feeling like in all these years nobody has been able to replicate this? Surely we must be over thinking and outsmarting ourselves...

 

On the other hand, most owners of the RS and Gs series cans are happy with their cans as is! 

 

 

 

 

...on another note, being that they are the older version, i'm sure it definitely plays a role on how stubborn the glue will be. Anyhow, congrats! Not many (if any) of the ones who have tried have achieved this level of success with cleanly removing the drivers from their woodys!

 

I would've liked to try it on my old Rs1...but unfortunately, I'm gonna have to let them go very soon due to purchasing a new house...


Edited by wormsdriver - 8/27/13 at 10:56pm
post #3818 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post

Even with 4 holes punched, they still sound harsh and trebly with large pads - the wooden cups have almost nothing to do with this. 

 

 

    So is there anything I could do to pull of the jumbos?

post #3819 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

I found one reference to the process which I remember seeing before.  This was from back in the day when I would work on trying to mod the SR-80 and work with some of the initial wooden cups that were created.  I'm not sure how the reference to the RS1i got worked into that thread, nor am I too sure that I'd follow the process described because it does seem to chew up the insides of the cups where they are glued to the driver. 

 

I'll keep up the search to see how we can best do this.

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/508459/sr60-mod/2460#post_7359978

 

I suspect we'll need to look for a smaller, but still strong tool to make the necessary step of creating an opening within the glue that bonds the drivers to the cup.  However,

Looks like at least the glue off the top will come right off with your fingernail(I just tested it on a small section on my Rs2 which was recabled by grado over a year ago).

 

if your are really lucky like jonbmet, the driver will mostly come right off and you'll be in business!....ok, it's probably unlikely both drivers will just fall off on both sides after removing the top glue without getting your hands dirty, but hey, who knows!smile.gif

post #3820 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post

that's great man!

 

I was also thinking of what Grado uses for repairing their woodys. All I could think about was some special solvent or heat, but I kept feeling like in all these years nobody has been able to replicate this? Surely we must be over thinking and outsmarting ourselves...

 

On the other, most owners of the RS and Gs series cans are happy with their cans as is! 

 

 

 

 

...on another note, being that they are the older version, i'm sure it definitely plays a role on how stubborn the glue will be. Anyhow, congrats! Not many (if any) of the ones who have tried have achieved this level of success with cleanly removing the drivers from their woodys!

 

I would've liked to try it on my old Rs1...but unfortunately, I'm gonna have to let them go very soon due to purchasing a new house...


Thanks man. I was actually in the same situation as WJE and purchased these cans needing a recable. I don't think I could disassemble any of my other 'higher end' grados....although the RS1's posted earlier have me considering it.

 

Now I just need to figure out a good glue to put them back together. I want to be able to remove them again in the future without too much hassle. Right now the pads are holding them in and they sound pretty good.....but on songs with heavier bass they can rattle.

 

I haven't found any information on modifying the GS1000's...probably not done very often. If anyone does have any info or links I'd appreciate it. I think these cans might be my favorite Grados. The bass is awesome, mids are really smooth, highs are more 'relaxed' than most other grados. I don't like them with the g-cushion pads....just puts the driver too far away from my ears (even though they are incredibly comfortable).....L-cushions are the way to go.

post #3821 of 5431

I used a gun cleaning pick like the ones below to initially peel the glue back. The cheaper picks will bend pretty easily. A nice set can be had for ~$15. These with an xacto knife and a good beer are a pretty good place to start if removing drivers from wood cups.

 

778870.jpg

post #3822 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

*snip

Now I just need to figure out a good glue to put them back together. I want to be able to remove them again in the future without too much hassle. Right now the pads are holding them in and they sound pretty good.....but on songs with heavier bass they can rattle.

*snip

I've done hot glue (could get messy as hell though!) on my previous pair of Sr125's. I kept the glue to a minimum though to minimize the mess and to be able to pop the drivers out if need be.

 

I've also used foam tape around the driver and/or some rigid aluminum tape I found (on previous magnum builds/assemblysmile.gif), but then again there was more space between the river and the wood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

I used a gun cleaning pick like the ones below to initially peel the glue back. The cheaper picks will bend pretty easily. A nice set can be had for ~$15. These with an xacto knife and a good beer are a pretty good place to start if removing drivers from wood cups.

 

778870.jpg

thanks for the tip!^^


Edited by wormsdriver - 8/27/13 at 10:54pm
post #3823 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaupakay View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post

Even with 4 holes punched, they still sound harsh and trebly with large pads - the wooden cups have almost nothing to do with this. 

 

 

    So is there anything I could do to pull of the jumbos?

I've read around here that others have reported good results with jumbo-pads after punching ALL THE HOLES - but I've never tried this and don't intend to either. I can only imagine how much that ruins the bass quality. 

post #3824 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by PintoDave View Post

I never implied that Grado would destroy anything. The purpose of my post was that there must be SOME was to go about extracting the driver without damaging anything.

 

No.  No.  I didn't mean for the message to sound that way.  I had just added a comment with some thoughts.  I've sent many a product to Grado on Brooklyn for repair.  They have been great to deal with.  Plus, their costs are somewhat reasonable for the excellent service.  The SR-80 was about $35.00, the SR-325 was about $45.00, but I've heard the GS1000 could be about $150.00 if service is needed.  But, still, not a bad deal.  I don't think I could repair a pair of GS1000s for $150.  Plus, that includes the shipment back to you which happens in under 10 days.  Excellent service and turn-around on their part!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

I removed a pair of drivers from some GS-1000's recently. You wouldn't believe how easy they were to remove. All I had to do was slowly peal the glue back around the edge of the driver and then they literally almost fell out. One of them "caught" on the lip of the cup (driver would only go about half way out) as I was trying to remove it so I used an xacto knife to clean up one little nick. I think it took about 5 minutes to remove them and I was very careful. These were not the i model so I don't know if the glue has changed or maybe loosened up over time...maybe I just got lucky.

 

I've been meaning to post some pictures. I'm almost done. So far I recabled them with a Cardas headphone cable and furutech carbon fiber plug. Has a Jmoney headband. I still want to upgrade the gimbals, chrome the screens, add a braided wrap to the cable, and possibly play with the damping.

 

 

 

Thank you!  The experience and information you've shared is truly exceptional.  It makes me feel better that the task should be not too bad.  Then again, I have a garage full of tools if needed.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post

Looks like at least the glue off the top will come right off with your fingernail(I just tested it on a small section on my Rs2 which was recabled by grado over a year ago).

 

if your are really lucky like jonbmet, the driver will mostly come right off and you'll be in business!....ok, it's probably unlikely both drivers will just fall off on both sides after removing the top glue without getting your hands dirty, but hey, who knows!smile.gif

 

Yes, the procedure and your test sounds wonderful!!  This is the best news to year.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

I used a gun cleaning pick like the ones below to initially peel the glue back. The cheaper picks will bend pretty easily. A nice set can be had for ~$15. These with an xacto knife and a good beer are a pretty good place to start if removing drivers from wood cups.

 

 

 

The precision tools seem like the right equipment to use.  As I say "Why fix it with a 10 Lb. hammer, when just a 2 Lb. hammer is needed?"  - I guess there might be some truth in that.  However, sometimes it just feels good to use that 10 Lb. hammer just to smack something that isn't of value.  evil_smiley.gif

post #3825 of 5431
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post

that's great man!

I was also thinking of what Grado uses for repairing their woodys. All I could think about was some special solvent or heat, but I kept feeling like in all these years nobody has been able to replicate this? Surely we must be over thinking and outsmarting ourselves...

On the other hand, most owners of the RS and Gs series cans are happy with their cans as is! 




...on another note, being that they are the older version, i'm sure it definitely plays a role on how stubborn the glue will be. Anyhow, congrats! Not many (if any) of the ones who have tried have achieved this level of success with cleanly removing the drivers from their woodys!

I would've liked to try it on my old Rs1...but unfortunately, I'm gonna have to let them go very soon due to purchasing a new house...

Ouch...I feel your mortgage/new home blues my brother...went through the same thing 5 years ago. Things have never quite been the same in my audio world since.
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