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post your grado mods.... - Page 254

post #3796 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaupakay View Post

     I really want to get some wood cups formy Grados but I would prefer to make them myself. I might finally get that done next week if I get around to it. I'm not sure if I should get some jumbo pads or not though. I have the Grado sr80i and I know most people say that the jumbos sound bad on that model but I was wondering if it would still sound overly bright and harsh if I used some wood cups with them? And possibly if I punched one or two more holes in the felt? Do any of you have experience with this?

Even with 4 holes punched, they still sound harsh and trebly with large pads - the wooden cups have almost nothing to do with this. 

post #3797 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post

Even with 4 holes punched, they still sound harsh and trebly with large pads - the wooden cups have almost nothing to do with this. 

 

I'm still not a firm believer in opening the holes in the back felt on the drivers either.  I've done my share in the past.  However, none of them were really done for myself other than my first pair.  The others were with mods that I was performing for other people.

 

We all have to note that there is bass, and there is good bass.  I'm not so sure that the method for opening a few of the holes necessarily leads to good bass.  Sure, they sound better initially.  However, is it a single note bass, or can one hear the variation in the bass?

 

I'd much rather hear quality bass.  There are ways to beat the system (e.g. opening the holes) but it doesn't necessarily mean that it will turn a pair of SR-80s into a pair of RS-2s either.

 

Enjoy!

post #3798 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

Quote:

I'm still not a firm believer in opening the holes in the back felt on the drivers either.  I've done my share in the past.  However, none of them were really done for myself other than my first pair.  The others were with mods that I was performing for other people.

 

We all have to note that there is bass, and there is good bass.  I'm not so sure that the method for opening a few of the holes necessarily leads to good bass.  Sure, they sound better initially.  However, is it a single note bass, or can one hear the variation in the bass?

 

I'd much rather hear quality bass.  There are ways to beat the system (e.g. opening the holes) but it doesn't necessarily mean that it will turn a pair of SR-80s into a pair of RS-2s either.

 

Enjoy!

I had exactly the same experience with my first Grado SR60i. After punching a couple of holes in each driver I was initially excited at the new sound signature, but quickly found that the tightness and honesty they had before was gone. 

If you're clever with earpad mods, there are ways to improve the bass after punching holes, but its always compromises.

Personally I wouldn't punch holes on anything higher up than and SR80.

post #3799 of 5768

My custom cocobolo, primary headphones, are SR-80i. I am finding them to have less harsh treble than the SR-60s I have modded for my brother, as well as my secondary headphones (also SR-60). However, they do differ from my SR-80i set in construction and how deep I went into "liberating" them.

 

Bear with me, now....

 

My SR-80i is more of a partial liberation, where the driver is still encased in it's plastic shell that the stock cup slides over. However, when I do wood cups for them, the entire driver (plastic shell and all) are in the cup, and the top of the driver sits 1/8" from the pad side opening. I have a set of "distancers" that I built (also of wood, but they are oak and padauk), which slide into the cup and the pad is secured to.

 

The SR-60 that I built for my brother is a full liberation with the Grado plastic shell removed, and the driver sits in the cup, top of the driver flush with the pad side opening, and the pad secures to the cup in a groove cut for it. A one-piece design and less complicated/time consuming to build.

 

When I first did my secondary Grado SR-60, same model as my brother's, I did a wood cup out of zapote which slid onto the stock plastic shell like the stock plastic cup did. The pad secured to the driver as it did from the factory. Very similar in dimensions to the stock plastic cup, but deeper.

 

 

I believe that the dimensions of the cup make more of an impact on high frequency control than the material. When I first did the slip on zapote cups on my SR-60 pair the treble was bright, but not unbearable. Now that they are liberated, they have the "harsher" treble. Not unbearable, but not as smooth and balanced as my SR-80i with the partial liberation.

 

My SR-80i has gone through three different wood types, and I have done SR-60 in three difference wood types as well.

 

All of my modded headphones (including my brother's) have all had four holes punched in each driver which played no part in taming the higher frequencies when it came done to giving them wood cups. Bass was stronger and more present, but treble was not affected.

 

Also, pads do make a difference. With the L-Cush pads the treble isn't as bad on the SR-60, but still not balanced. I use comfies on my SR-60s and L-Cush on my SR-80. Swap them over if need be. I enjoy the sound with L-Cush more than any though.


Edited by PintoDave - 8/26/13 at 2:32pm
post #3800 of 5768

Okay, I'm finished modding my RS1i or should I say Spiffied (If that's a real word). tongue.gif

 

It has a new headband from Turbulent Labs

It has new polished aluminum gimbals/rod-blocks from Martin Custom Audio

And a new cable from Twisted Cables (Australia)

 

These guys I mentioned above I highly recommend especially Jeremy from Twisted cables that spent more hours than I think be bargained on. If anyone in interested in using his services, he is a Headfier that goes by the name "qusp".

 

I don't think I'll ever sell this pair of headphones. smile.gif

 

 

 

 

beerchug.gif


Edited by SirBenn21 - 8/27/13 at 12:38am
post #3801 of 5768

You win this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBenn21 View Post

SNIP
post #3802 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirBenn21 View Post

Okay, I'm finished modding my RS1i or should I say Spiffied (If that's a real word). tongue.gif

 

beerchug.gif

 

Your RS1i features some mighty fine work!  I can see your reasons to say that you'll never sell it.  I can see why because after all that work, it would be hard to let go of it.  It is like fine art.

 

Also, by chance, do you have any advice on how the driver removal process from the RS1i took place?  Was the glue softened, so the drivers could be extracted from the wooden cups?  I'm interested in finding this information because my own pair of RS1i headphones on their way to me will require a cable replacement.  Thanks!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by alv4426 View Post

You win this thread.

 

I didn't realize there was a race.  biggrin.gif   But, I will certainly agree with you that this recent posting of the RS1i certainly has to be one of the finest modifications of that Grado variant that I've seen to date.  Maybe Grado should take note of the final work.  Then again, maybe they shouldn't because if they did, the RS1i would then be selling at $1,300 instead of the $695 where it is priced now.

post #3803 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

Your RS1i features some mighty fine work!  I can see your reasons to say that you'll never sell it.  I can see why because after all that work, it would be hard to let go of it.  It is like fine art.

 

Also, by chance, do you have any advice on how the driver removal process from the RS1i took place?  Was the glue softened, so the drivers could be extracted from the wooden cups?  I'm interested in finding this information because my own pair of RS1i headphones on their way to me will require a cable replacement.  Thanks!

 

 

*snip

I very recently saw a pair of rs1 for sale that needed a cable... It was very tempting! 

 

Please do share if you guys find out a good way of removing the glue without any damages to the cups. I've been wanting to recable my classic Rs1 but wouldn't dare having them massacred just for a re-cable. I did contact Grado and they quoted me $100 for a new stock cable (8 conductor vs the 4 conductor in my classic Rs1).

 

Anyhow, if it's the same pair of rs1i's I saw, congrats! I'm happy a great fellow Head-fier got them. good luck with the re-cable, and I would love to see them when you're all done with them!beerchug.gif 

post #3804 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post

I very recently saw a pair of rs1 for sale that needed a cable... It was very tempting! 

 

Please do share if you guys find out a good way of removing the glue without any damages to the cups. I've been wanting to recable my classic Rs1 but wouldn't dare having them massacred just for a re-cable. I did contact Grado and they quoted me $100 for a new stock cable (8 conductor vs the 4 conductor in my classic Rs1).

 

Anyhow, if it's the same pair of rs1i's I saw, congrats! I'm happy a great fellow Head-fier got them. good luck with the re-cable, and I would love to see them when you're all done with them!beerchug.gif 

 

Yes.  I believe it was me who was able to secure that pair of headphones.  wink.gif   However, I also had to sell my pair of GS1000 Grados to get there, too.  I'm just not sure if I like the G-Cush more than the L-Cush pads.  This is what kind of drove me towards the RS1i instead of staying with the GS1000.  However, make no mistake, the GS1000 is still a very comfortable headphone.  After all, it is still about 1/3rd less weight than a typical pair of HifiMan or Audeze headphones.  That makes a huge difference and with the GS1000, one could hardly realize they were wearing them.

 

As I go through the process of the RS1i driver removal, I'll be sure to note the steps, as well as provide photos.  


Edited by wje - 8/27/13 at 4:39am
post #3805 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post

 

Yes.  I believe it was me who was able to secure that pair of headphones.  wink.gif   However, I also had to sell my pair of GS1000 Grados to get there, too.  I'm just not sure if I like the G-Cush more than the L-Cush pads.  This is what kind of drove me towards the RS1i instead of staying with the GS1000.  However, make no mistake, the GS1000 is still a very comfortable headphone.  After all, it is still about 1/3rd less weight than a typical pair of HifiMan or Audeze headphones.  That makes a huge difference and with the GS1000, one could hardly realize they were wearing them.

 

As I go through the process of the RS1i driver removal, I'll be sure to note the steps, as well as provide photos.  

- absolutely! that's a big reason that turned me away from the LCD2's.

 

- awesome, I'm glad you'll be doing this tutorial. I look forward to checking it out... Best of luck, and be careful with these damned things!! friends don't let friends do this to their Grados:

 

smile.gif

post #3806 of 5768

New headband for my precious.

 

post #3807 of 5768
I'm liking the look of that headband, Keys;)
post #3808 of 5768
That's got to make those cans intolerably heavy. Can you remove the creepy little grey fellow for portable use?
post #3809 of 5768
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormsdriver View Post

- absolutely! that's a big reason that turned me away from the LCD2's.

 

- awesome, I'm glad you'll be doing this tutorial. I look forward to checking it out... Best of luck, and be careful with these damned things!! friends don't let friends do this to their Grados:

 

 

smile.gif

 

I found one reference to the process which I remember seeing before.  This was from back in the day when I would work on trying to mod the SR-80 and work with some of the initial wooden cups that were created.  I'm not sure how the reference to the RS1i got worked into that thread, nor am I too sure that I'd follow the process described because it does seem to chew up the insides of the cups where they are glued to the driver. 

 

I'll keep up the search to see how we can best do this.

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/508459/sr60-mod/2460#post_7359978

 

I suspect we'll need to look for a smaller, but still strong tool to make the necessary step of creating an opening within the glue that bonds the drivers to the cup.  However,

post #3810 of 5768
How does Grado service them when a driver fails? Do they replace the entire cup with the driver or do they extract and replace the driver?

I would assume extraction, so they could troubleshoot/diagnose possible solder issues, or replace the cable.

Or do they replace the entire unit wth the RS series woodies?
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