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post your grado mods.... - Page 245

post #3661 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

I've been looking at them and for a cheap and small amp the shipping is close to $50...how much do these things weigh? 

I purchased my LD1+ from a U.S. dealer from eBay, seller : jg6556 from Florida, with Siemens 6AK5W tubes and cages for the tubes as an upgrade for 135.00 + 25.00 shipping, if you are interested. 

post #3662 of 5725
That's not too bad... Plus those tubes are gloriously crunchy... Awesome for rock.. Just wish they has the bottom end that the Voskhod 6ZH1P-EV has...
post #3663 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by joseph69 View Post

I purchased my LD1+ from a U.S. dealer from eBay, seller : jg6556 from Florida, with Siemens 6AK5W tubes and cages for the tubes as an upgrade for 135.00 + 25.00 shipping, if you are interested. 

 

That sounds like a good price, I'll keep my eye on that seller. I just bought a DAP today so I'll have to put off buying a tube amp  for another day.  

post #3664 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

 

That sounds like a good price, I'll keep my eye on that seller. I just bought a DAP today so I'll have to put off buying a tube amp  for another day.  

 

I bought a pair of Stax today... you can snag that little dot... you have my permission lol (Actually it doesn't count... the old Stax electrets aren't expensive...)

post #3665 of 5725

So I opened up the SR60i's I got today, and I see the marker for which side is left/right, but where is the part I solder the wire to? Is it just that yellow thing? Or is there something else that is covered up by solder?

post #3666 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

So I opened up the SR60i's I got today, and I see the marker for which side is left/right, but where is the part I solder the wire to? Is it just that yellow thing? Or is there something else that is covered up by solder?

 

You can see where the end of the old cable is still attached. 

 

post #3667 of 5725

So you just kept all the solder on there and cable on there? Or did you take solder wick to it?

post #3668 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

So I opened up the SR60i's I got today, and I see the marker for which side is left/right, but where is the part I solder the wire to? Is it just that yellow thing? Or is there something else that is covered up by solder?


I believe if you look closely there are two small leads going from the cable solder points around to the voice coil. I just re-cabled a pair of grados and this video helped me out. Granted it's a turbulent labs driver, but it's the same procedure as the grado driver. Let me know if the link doesn't work.

 

http://vimeo.com/52774575

post #3669 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

So I opened up the SR60i's I got today, and I see the marker for which side is left/right, but where is the part I solder the wire to? Is it just that yellow thing? Or is there something else that is covered up by solder?


I believe if you look closely there are two small leads going from the cable solder points around to the voice coil. I just re-cabled a pair of grados and this video helped me out. Granted it's a turbulent labs driver, but it's the same procedure as the grado driver. Let me know if the link doesn't work.

 

http://vimeo.com/52774575

That helped a lot, thanks! Now do you recommend using solder wick to take the solder off? Or just solder away? Or use that solder, melt it, and put the cable on?

post #3670 of 5725

I forget what type of solder it is....eutectic or non-eutectic that solidifies at varying temperatures, but I noticed the grado solder solidifies slowly. At least it did on the older pair of GS-1000's I was re-cabling. I wasn't able to get a good solder (nice and shiny) because of how long it took to set up....and my unsteady hands.

 

 

Because of that I used a wick to remove most, but not all, of the grado solder and then added my own.

post #3671 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

I forget what type of solder it is....eutectic or non-eutectic that solidifies at varying temperatures, but I noticed the grado solder solidifies slowly. At least it did on the older pair of GS-1000's I was re-cabling. I wasn't able to get a good solder (nice and shiny) because of how long it took to set up....and my unsteady hands.

 

 

Because of that I used a wick to remove most, but not all, of the grado solder and then added my own.

Cool, thanks! Anything I should be aware of while using the wick? I hate using wick, it makes everything move around and I could melt something.

post #3672 of 5725

I think you'll be ok. Just look out for the voice coil wires. You could probably get away with re-using the grado solder with good results if you don't want to use the wick. If you don't like the way it turns out then break out the wick. At least that's what I did.

 

What are these drivers going into?


Edited by jonbmet - 8/14/13 at 7:25pm
post #3673 of 5725
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbmet View Post

I think you'll be ok. Just look out for the voice coil wires. You could probably get away with re-using the grado solder with good results if you don't want to use the wick. If you don't like the way it turns out then break out the wick. At least that's what I did.

 

What are these drivers going into?

7Key cups:). I'll try wick first, see if I can do it.

post #3674 of 5725

So I got the cable off of my drivers but I melted a tiny bit of that plastic ring around the drivers, is this bad?

post #3675 of 5725

Are you talking about the black plastic near the magnet and around the outside edge of the driver, or the clear plastic diaphragm?

 

Clear diaphragm - no no, don't mess with it.

 

Black plastic - fair game, for me so far at least. I have melted a tiny bit near the driver magnet and have had no issues. anything done to the plastic driver shell shouldn't do much harm, it's messed around with a lot during full liberation.

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