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DIY Cable Info and Resources
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Have had these for 3 months after losing a pair of Pioneer HDJ 500s. Preferred the look and build quality of the Pioneers, but the Sonys look ok and fold up nicely. The HDJ 500s didn't fold, but...
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post your grado mods.... - Page 239post #3571 of 48767/24/13 at 4:42pmIt looks like it...and those dings in the diaphragm don't bode well either...
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #3572 of 48767/24/13 at 5:04pm
Yeah - those are practically ready for the bin.
Also nobody sends drivers in THAT sort of packaging. I'd be absolutely disgusted.
Even if you pop out the dents in the diaphragm (which is very easy with a toothpick and double sided tape on the end), there will be too many new creases that ruin the uniformity.post #3573 of 48767/24/13 at 5:09pmpost #3574 of 48767/24/13 at 6:00pmpost #3575 of 48767/24/13 at 6:29pmpost #3576 of 48767/24/13 at 7:08pm
It appears that the diaphragm has wrinkles in them, as well. I wouldn't be happy either. While I wouldn't ask for the cups back, I would try to arrange some type of compensation to the driver, in hopes that the trader in question would work something out with you in good faith.
In all truth and honesty, there really isn't a standard to "bare driver", that I know of. So there really is no trade violation that I can think of. It is, however, fairly common knowledge, among the Grado modding community, that a "bare driver" still has the diaphragm grill and cloth intact, and such driver would only be missing the shell and cup.
On the other hand, the terminology of "bare driver" vs. "liberated driver" could be thrown in there to, where a liberated driver, as we all know, always retains the grill and cloth, minus the shell and cup.
As I said, perhaps you could work something out with the trader and hope that in good faith they might be willing to compensate you for getting the short stick of the deal.post #3577 of 48767/24/13 at 11:55pmpost #3578 of 48767/25/13 at 12:42am
While there are good lessons to be learned about photos and the terminology involved in headphone disassembly, the biggest problem here is FULL DISCLOSURE, and secondly abysmal packaging.
The seller did not offer full disclosure which is considered deception.
The packaging is a joke, which I'm sure breaks some sort of consumer/customer laws.post #3579 of 48767/25/13 at 7:32amAs it was the first time the seller liberated a Grado driver he thought bare drive was striped of all plastic. I know he was not trying to screw me and has offered compensation. So............... all is good. These things happen and we all make mistakes.post #3580 of 48767/25/13 at 3:15pmpost #3581 of 48767/25/13 at 7:35pm
SERIOUS QUESTION FROM THE HORSE.
Okay, so since I installed the wood cups from 7keys (glorious job btw mate!), I feel like the bit of punchiness that punching two holes added, kinda went away with the wood. Is this possible to be the case? Im tempted to punch one more, to pull out that glorious bass in Yes's 'Siberian Khatru', but Im afraid of making them sound sloppy.
Great sounding song on punchy Grados btw!!post #3582 of 48767/26/13 at 7:09ampost #3583 of 48767/26/13 at 10:48ampost #3584 of 48767/26/13 at 11:08amThey have wooden inner sleeves, correct?
You could try the hair-dryer method that works with the SR series. It would take a little longer with the aluminum outer cups.
Lord only knows why you would want to muck about inside those headphones though....post #3585 of 48767/26/13 at 11:22amQuote:
Hi - Sorry I should have been a little clearer.
I don't want to actually take the earcup apart, I just purchased some aluminium rodbloks and gimbals from martin custom audio and I need to swap them over. Can't figure out how to take off the stock ones. I don't want to damage them.
- post your grado mods....
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