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post your grado mods.... - Page 202

post #3016 of 5629
Quote:

The ideal case (for me, because I want to hear what my wooden cups sound like, in other words to have the mechanical vibrations of the driver transferred to the cups) is when the driver fits snugly into the wood of the cup itself.

 

If I don't have that, I would try to achieve a very snug fit with different rigid tape/paper-like materials, at best a stripe of damp wood (with properly calculated length / width / thickness) wrapped, pressed and dried around the driver.

 

I think wood glue would be a really good candidate.  It has been used musical instruments particularly cellos and Gibson guitars.  Sound transfer to the tonewood really works in both cases.  You don't get the same effect with bolted on components even with maximum contact between wood parts.
 

post #3017 of 5629

The thing is, you're trying to fill a gap between the wooden cup and the plastic driver, which is not exactly like gluing two wooden parts/faces of a musical instrument together.

 

But it could be a good idea if you don't plan on ever taking out your drivers and you want a permanent result, to add a layer of a special glue before the final insertion, to make sure everything is “bonded”.

post #3018 of 5629
I was going to sell my SR80is after finishing my magnums, but the SPC cable I bought was a little too short for my magnums, so I decided to try it on the SR80i. The result was more than satisfying, and I do think they change the sound a little. So I decided to keep these for portable purposes.
The result is a little more open and detailed sound, a little on the bright side. Psychological or not, I like it. Besides, the look and feel of the headphones/cables is worth the trouble smily_headphones1.gif





About the wood; I like the approach of vibro labs. They use a foam tape between the driver and the cups. Don't you think it will absorb some of the drivers vibrations, leaving the sound colored only by the wood? (Hope this makes sense in English)
Edited by orangecr - 5/22/13 at 7:59am
post #3019 of 5629

Yeah no, I think the contrary actually :/, no matter how practical this solution may be, I think that the foam tape is going to absorb the mechanical vibration of the driver and that without this “mechanical contact” / “cups and driver making one” / snug fit, you will get less of the coloration of the wood of your cups. You will get to hear more of the driver itself, enclosed in a cave made of what, plastic/wood/metal, it doesn't know (or doesn't stand much a chance of knowing). I think that having a good mechanical contact between the driver and the cup is one of the more important ways to hear/have cup-related sonic effect... if you know what I mean?

 

That's how I conceive it, but I never done any listening test. And save for the RS-1, I never listened to any “woodies”... so I'm not 100% certain.

 

ThelostMIDrange however does recommend a tight “press-fit” (the driver held very securely by the cup itself) for more “mojo” to quote his exact word used. And now he did do multiple comparative tests between different driver-fit before drawing this conclusion. My “conceived” ideas of cup mechanics were strengthened (but not caused) by his results.


Edited by devouringone3 - 5/22/13 at 4:08pm
post #3020 of 5629
I see your point. I wish I could compare. For now I am satisfied with my magnums inside vibro cups; they sound and look great. Maybe in the future I will order a different set of cups from some other maker and compare. I am curious now.
post #3021 of 5629

It's also quite possible that the driver get some sonic effects from being surrounded (as opposed to being “held tightly”) by this specific cup geometry and material.


Edited by devouringone3 - 5/22/13 at 4:15pm
post #3022 of 5629

Butt Ugly?

post #3023 of 5629
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post



Butt Ugly?

dunno about ugly as so much as odd... The grain looks goofy on that right cup like its been filled with wood putty lol... What kind of wood were they made from?
post #3024 of 5629
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post



Butt Ugly?
Depends on the butt I guess.

get it?
post #3025 of 5629
^well played
post #3026 of 5629

Here is my first mod.

 

I just bought a RS1i and found the bowl pads a little uncomfortable. I decided to go with the reverse comfy pads, but I did not like my ears touching the driver grill. So I made "spacer rings" to just give it that extra distance. I'm very happy with the result. I bought high density foam rubber. I got two thicknesses 2mm & 5mm, but found 2mm best.

 

This is now way more comfotable!

 

The sound is amazing especially the bass. I found with my ears touching the grill that there was a harshness, but that is gone now.

 

Tools used: 41mm & 55mm WAD punches and a hammer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by SirBenn21 - 5/24/13 at 12:12am
post #3027 of 5629
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaco17 View Post


dunno about ugly as so much as odd... The grain looks goofy on that right cup like its been filled with wood putty lol... What kind of wood were they made from?

These are made with African Mahogany, someone asked me to put some red stain on them and this is what happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpawluk91 View Post


Depends on the butt I guess.

get it?

Yes. Ha!

post #3028 of 5629
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7keys View Post

These are made with African Mahogany, someone asked me to put some red stain on them and this is what happened.
Yes. Ha!
depends diapers lol
post #3029 of 5629
Anyone have any good suggestions for me?
Want to hide the cabling from each cup but can't think of any good ideas. I tried running it through the headband but it's almost impossible without cutting it open and I don't want to do that.


IMG_20130524_230428_zpsfba69a19.jpg
post #3030 of 5629

If you attach your cable to the end of a thin metal rod, can't you push it through the headband and then push though the headband metal arch through after? (or just tape your cable to the metal arch and push them through together)


Edited by lawrywild - 5/25/13 at 3:51am
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