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DIY Cable Info and Resources
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post your grado mods.... - Page 179post #2671 of 543112/28/12 at 10:12amHmmm...and it needs to hold its shape, or it will be useless for keeping the headphones on your head. Have you considered spring steel from hardware store like Home Depot or its Canadian equivalent?
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #2672 of 543112/28/12 at 1:20pm
I think I found something that might work:
Those K&S strips seem the right dimension; the leather headband is a little under 12 inches long, and the opening in the rodblocks is right over 1/4". I'm not sure for the thickness though. Does anybody have an idea?post #2673 of 543112/28/12 at 1:28pmpost #2674 of 543112/28/12 at 1:29pmpost #2675 of 543112/28/12 at 1:35pmpost #2676 of 543112/28/12 at 2:11pmpost #2677 of 543112/28/12 at 2:11pmpost #2678 of 543112/28/12 at 3:32pmpost #2679 of 543112/28/12 at 3:36pm
Wide ;) (*edit: D'oh!)
Grado uses stainless steel and that darn headband is the only piece we aren't successfully making for ourselves yet (*edit, but the guy above me found a decent solution!). Magnum modders starting from scratch usually buy another headphone's headband (such as Sony 7506 or 7502 replacements) and we who prefer Grado-style hardware are left out of luck. Personally I would either try to find an equivalent material like you're doing, open a Want2Buy the part, or find a real cheap, used up SR60.
The dimension of the strip is about 1 mm thick, 5 mm wide, and 30 mm long; but you should ask Jinteddy7 for more precise numbers if you need.
I would also advise against removing that white cheese clothe; it's the driver's last line of defense. I have also read report of people having tried it saying it didn't change anything to the sound.
Edited by devouringone3 - 12/29/12 at 10:46ampost #2680 of 543112/28/12 at 3:53pmQuote:Originally Posted by thelostMIDrange
btw, I agree, stain has no affect on sound because it doesn't change the wood's properties, but stain is not 'finish'. Maybe that was the confusion. Finish changes the wood's properties without exception. Bang two raw wood cups together and then do it with the same finished cups. Totally different sounds will be heard.
Maybe it was finish as that makes sense. Thank you for the clarification.post #2681 of 543112/28/12 at 6:38pmQuote:
No resoldering and destroying the plastic air-chamber.
The Bamboo housing is basically the same design as the stock plastic housing...so the driver+airchamber fits right in.post #2682 of 543112/29/12 at 4:54amQuote:
Okay, thanks. I remember seeing it in bill's videos and wanted to try it.post #2683 of 543112/29/12 at 7:09ampost #2684 of 543112/29/12 at 8:24amQuote:Originally Posted by wavid
Found some old hole saws and some floorboards in my dads shed and figured id try and woody my sr60s to replace my 325 cups....Lets just say i was not very successful lol.
But i will def try again, maybe with some new hole saws and better wood. I have some nice blocks of mahogany but ill wait till i have some better hole saws and a more powerful drill.
Made one more for the left cup. Smoke everywhere and black sawdust haha, now im sure i need a better hole saw for when i make the mahogany ones.
Anyway here it is...
4 Vent holes, felt on driver and oak cups. Need to find some mesh and will def need to redo the wood.
Havent really sanded these because i kind of like the look but these wont be staying on for long, just practice cups
Edited by wavid - 12/29/12 at 8:28am
- post your grado mods....
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