Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › post your grado mods....
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

post your grado mods.... - Page 13

post #181 of 4875
The tools used are pretty basic. I used a lathe with a rough gouge, a straight chisel, an angled chisel and a parting tool to turn the cups, and a hand saw to finish separatiing the pieces. The lathe is definitely the tool that takes the most getting used to, and is probably the most dangerous. I've broken a gouge turning a maple burl bowl, and seeing pieces of metal flying around isn't fun. So I'd definitely suggest finding someone to show you the basics if you can. But it's also the tool that allows you to be creative, and turing really is a lot of fun. I used a drill press with a 1 5/8" diameter forstner bit for the outer hole and a 2" diameter forstner bit for the inner hole, and some smaller bits for the cup mounting holes and cable opening. A table saw or router is nice to take the corners of the square blank, which makes it easier on the chisels and your arms. And some clamps are necessary to hold the cups for drilling... We've used double-sided tape and sand paper on the ends of the clamps to secure the cups with minimal pressure. But beyond that it's just having fun and being creative with the shapes carved on the lathe and being careful centering the bits on the drill press. The 1 5/8" hole needs to be centered because it's the one you see, and the 2" diameter hole in particular is critical because you're left with chamber walls that are less than 1/8" thick, so being off at all can cause major problems down the road.

Other people have done write-ups on doing wood cups without a lathe, and I'll leave it to them to explain how it's done. I was lucky enough to have an amazing craftsman in the family who showed me how to use a lathe. Then my luck continued, finding an amazing deal on craigslist for a used lathe and a friend kind enough to give up a corner of his shop to set the lathe up. And then the folks followed up with a birthday gift of a nice set of turning chisels. So along the way I've gotten a lot of help... But it's been a very rewarding journey. I've turned a number of bowls, and my next project will likely be legs for an end table I've had bouncing around in my head for a while.

All of the cups I've done have been deeper than stock. I can't say how much the increase in chamber size or the choice of wood has to do with the change in sound, but each time I've done it, there has been definite improvement. Because you can get 2 or 3 sets of cups out of a single 3"x3"x12" blank, you can experiment and figure out what sounds best. Just measure up the stock cups you take off to make sure everything will fit, adjust the depth of the chamber and anything else you want to that won't affect how they go back together and have fun.
post #182 of 4875
en480c4,

Well wow, thank you very much for all that information!!! It is really appreciated , I can find someone to help me out without a problem. It surely sounds really fun! Whenever I find the time (which I doubt I will anytime soon) I will investigate/read more!

Charles
post #183 of 4875
Yea... I have a family member with a lathe the only problem is they live 5 hours away...

Ill have to find some writeups on lathe-less or search craigslist
post #184 of 4875
i got a pair of 325's that the previous owner tried to remove the buttons and left some glue behind



anyone have any ideas how to clean this up any? alternatives?
post #185 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by unseen View Post
i got a pair of 325's that the previous owner tried to remove the buttons and left some glue behind



anyone have any ideas how to clean this up any? alternatives?
well i had that mess when i debadged my 325i's, took me a bloody long time as initially i wasnt going to open them up, so was just dealing with the glu from the outside, soon figured out that wasnt any good as the glue is soaked through the mesh with large bubbles of it the other side of the mesh, and i wasnt about to push it through onto the drivers.

anyway, i opened up the the driver casing using the spoon method, in my case a fork.

eventually got in there, i had already soaked it with white spirit, turps, but in hindsight this was a bad idea as this made the glue soft and slimy, and harder to work with. after a few hours i managed to get the glue completely off one of them, using a very small micro headed flat head screwdriver, simply oushing between each grill section, then doing it from the inside, with it being hard on one still (the glue) thismade it easier to snap and push through and peel off with tweezers

unfortunately i scraped all the black paint off whilst doing this, so decided in the end to simply wire wool and white spirit the whole mesh from the top (as i couldnt get the mesh out) - masked off all around the housing, save it getting discoloured and worn, and now i have the mesh a nice silver colour with no glue on.

a lot of hassle for such a small thing, but in your case you need to remove that mess!!!!
post #186 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by unseen View Post
i got a pair of 325's that the previous owner tried to remove the buttons and left some glue behind
[pic removed]
anyone have any ideas how to clean this up any? alternatives?
Yikes! I hope that they seller informed you of that mess they before you bought the cans from him/her. The seller obviously was not aware that there was a blob of glue holding the buttons in place. I hope they gave you a good price, at least.

Yeah, as stated by the other poster, you will have to crack apart the cups to get access to the backside of the grills. I would use a hairdryer to heat the SIDES of the cups for a minute or so and then quickly pry apart (by hand) the two halves of each cup (inner black plastic half, outer silver metal half). DO NOT blast hot air into the inside of the cups or on the side that goes against your ears as this will damage the drivers. I would be reluctant to use a spoon the pry the cups apart as this will mar the aluminum cups.

Luckily, the adhesive that Grado uses is water-soluble hot glue. After disassembling the cups, I would drip very hot water on it. The glue mess should slowly dissolve away.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaddy
unfortunately i scraped all the black paint off whilst doing this, so decided in the end to simply wire wool and white spirit the whole mesh from the top (as i couldnt get the mesh out) - masked off all around the housing, save it getting discoloured and worn, and now i have the mesh a nice silver colour with no glue on.
I guess you now have a silver grills with the gold cups. That would look kind of odd. Anyways, the mesh is just hot glued in place. Heating it with a hairdryer will soften the glue allowing you to remove it. You can now paint it black with spray paint if you want to restore it back to "normal."
post #187 of 4875

Leather-zebrafied re-cabled Black Dragon 325i!

Here it is my very modified Grado's which I love to death!

They are re-cabled by Moon-audio with Black Dragon and I have made adapters out of zebrawood with 8 holes ports next to the pad backing for best sound. They are also finished with tung/teak oil to show up the nice grain of the wood.

The adapters are made to fit the famous Beyer leather pads (they do not fit the same way as the velours, the edges need to be thinner). This is my 3rd set (they took me a good 3 hours per pair) and I have achieve what the best result possible. It not only look good it also sound so much better to my ears. Bigger soundstage, excellent bass impact and definition and the mids are even better. So here is the pictures.

Charles





post #188 of 4875
Thread Starter 


WOW!!! There you have it, the first DIY c-pad mod!!

Nice work, how hard is it to work with zebrawood? is it rough to work with and hard on tooling?

Quaddy...
to get that glue off, you need to pull the earcups apart. Hair dryer/spoon method works well. I use a square wood chopstick instead of a metal spoon. IMHO its less likely to dent-gouge the plastic driver housing.

Next remove the wire mesh grille screens with a hairdryer to soften the glue.

Once you get the screens out, soaked them in enamel paint-stripper and the glue will soften. Use a toothbrush to scrub the glue off completely and re-assemble.

post #189 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by kramer5150 View Post


WOW!!! There you have it, the first DIY c-pad mod!!

Nice work, how hard is it to work with zebrawood? is it rough to work with and hard on tooling?
Hello kramer5150,

Thank you for your comments.. I am honored, especially coming from such a great DIYer! I do not a lot of posts but I have read for many hundred hours on this forum and you made a few really interesting threads.

This is my first wood project so it is hard to say, I have been using a router. I would say it is pretty hard on the tools, I bought a new blade bit after my first 2 sets as the blade was sort of burned.

To me, the hardest part was to figure out all the measurements and my ultimate goal was to make it in zebrawood to match my Darth's that I love so much. I can now say I love those Grado as much as my Darth's!!!

I wanted full thickness of exotic wood, no glued layers. The sanding process was quite hard also since I had to make shaped edges for perfect pads fitting.

Basically I had to use a press drill and turn the cups. It doesn't show but there is a lot of work involved.. and when you worked 3 hours on something you better not make a mistake or you be pissed forever. But at the end it is really really rewarding, you know the feeling

This is certainly not my last wood project. I can say I am eying a nice piece of snakewood and burl which I may use to make cups, I wanna fully woodify a Grado can. Now I need a used SR-60 for testing purposes. I am also considering doing something with PortaPro's.

Thanks,

Charles
post #190 of 4875
My mods: I put on the flat pads a long time ago, taking off the bowls. This reduced the brightness by filling out bass and mids. )I run it on "off" EQ on an iPod 8GB Mini, or on my home setup.)

However, this exacerbated a problem the Grados have: lack of imaging. The sound seemed to be mostly in my ears, rather than out in space as with my HD650s.

I have since added a small "gasket" ring of thin foam (1/8") under the inner rim of the flats, and this reduced the slightly excessive bass fullness, and gave a slight sense of imaging.

I had pulled off the SR-125 labels a long time ago. No clear difference. Fortunately, mine came of cleanly, not common it seems.

I just took the cans apart and added light-to-medium weight foam to the cavity behind the drivers. Filled the cavity. (I had trouble seeing where the sound radiated from... there is a slight ring of rubber that seems like a suspension, and maybe that is it. Around the rest of it is a felt-backed solid surface.) I also added a sticky of felt to the back of the diaphragm. Too lazy to try blue-tac or anything heavier. This produced a nice effect of reducing a hashy vagueness to midrange on up. Imaging seemed to improve and distortion seemed lower. I then tried a heavy felt stuck around the inside of the perimeter, but that took up too much volume and reduced the bass a bit with no discernable improvement, so I went back to the foam alone.
post #191 of 4875
Sweet work everyone.

Maybe some day I'll post my addition to this thread.
post #192 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Towert7 View Post
Sweet work everyone.

Maybe some day I'll post my addition to this thread.
You better be!

EDIT: My next project is new Grado cups made of Claro Walnut highly figured burl. I will try this on a lower end Grado as a start! I have a blank in the mail coming 9"x9"x3" that should be enough for a few prototypes. This is when I find some time and some used SR60-80!

Charles
post #193 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by en480c4 View Post
Needless to say, I too am a big fan of the zebrawood...

HF-1 with my latest cups and black grills installed:


Working with wood is so much fun!
Very nicely done. I'm doing something similar with rosewood cups, but smaller - closer to the stock plastic cups but contoured a bit to be flush with the pads. I don't want my SR-60's to get too heavy.
post #194 of 4875
Hi all... I just realized I didn't post my modded SR-60 in the grado-mods thread (wwhile I did post them in the cable gallery). But as I think it is nice to have a big thread showing all possible mods, I'll post a shorter version (for more info on stuff used etc, check out the post in the cable gallery) of my post here as well.

SR-60, rescreened and recabled (+/-1m, 4 conductor spc cable)



Some closer pics of the plug and Y-split




and of the strain relief and screen



and finally one beauty shot to finish:


I had been thinking about reinstalling the SR-60 buttons as they did come off without any damage... but without them the phones do look very clean and match my MS2i much better
post #195 of 4875
Quote:
Originally Posted by Televator View Post
...

Some closer pics of the plug and Y-split



...
Nice job on the re-cabling! Damn, love how nicely the shrink tubing? fits so nicely and clean with the cable itself.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › post your grado mods....