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post your grado mods.... - Page 96

post #1426 of 5323

My SR80, and I managed to do this;

22.jpg

 

 

But ended up with this :(

 

24.jpg

 

Probably the heat was too much it also melted the glue which holds the magnet in place, and when the voice coil vibration was too hard, bammm....


The magnet pop off when I accidentally drop the damaged driver...funny considering magnets use to be so glued in place, the actually wont pop off so easily...the fall was 10-inch the most...

 

27.jpg

 

Now I have to find a replacement driver, probably I'll get the SR60 and chop it off...biggrin.gif

post #1427 of 5323

Sorry to hear about the driver...but @#$% those are beautiful. Incredible work.

post #1428 of 5323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

I was thinking of doing the jack mod while I've got my headphones open. Then I can change the cord out or go dual mono whenever I want. Is this a good jack to use (Switchcraft #41): http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SC238-ND


Switchcraft makes great plugs but to my opinion not the coolest looking. Check out this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/410135/ultimate-diy-the-3-5mm-1-8-mini-jack-plug-collection-thread My favorite is viablues mini jack.

post #1429 of 5323

Did a resheathing of my cable as well as some aesthetic touchups to my plain-looking woodies.. Here are my SR60s.

DSC08259.JPGDSC08264.JPG

DSC08261.JPG

Mods:

4 Holes vented

SPC recable, 4-braid into 2, terminated with Pailiccs 3.5mm

Quarter mod

Replacement of plastic back

post #1430 of 5323

Quote:

Originally Posted by anthonyhong View Post

This is what I spent a productive day at work doing Hauled in a bag of tools and got to work



Just the ol' mesh replacement, recable, single sterio plug from the phones and rod lock


Yes, this picture is from an old post... But this picture is awesome.

post #1431 of 5323

I think the small Grados are too light to be equipped with such a onesided bulky cable. I did exactly that once for a customer, the looks were indeed very big-balls, but the wear feeling was sub zero.

post #1432 of 5323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

Did a resheathing of my cable as well as some aesthetic touchups to my plain-looking woodies.. Here are my SR60s.

DSC08259.JPGDSC08264.JPG

DSC08261.JPG

Mods:

4 Holes vented

SPC recable, 4-braid into 2, terminated with Pailiccs 3.5mm

Quarter mod

Replacement of plastic back

That looks great with the "engraving" have you burned it into the wood?

post #1433 of 5323

Looks "sharpie"ish to me. Nightslayer, are your cups one or two pieces? that looks similar to what I am going for after staining and finding some suitable grille material. What wood is that?

post #1434 of 5323

Can someone explain what a "distancer" is?

 

I got my piece of cocobolo today. I was planning on attempting an original RS1-looking cup in one piece. Or, is two pieces a better plan? Here are the measurements I plan to use. Obviously, I'm not sure about how tall to make them still:

 

 

   
total cup height (not driver) 37mm?
overall cup diameter 55mm (consider 56-58mm)
interior cup diameter (fits around driver) 50mm
wall thickness  2mm  (consider 3-4mm)
driver contact depth 9mm
lip height 9mm
overall lip diameter 60mm
interior lip diameter (mesh) 38mm
lip thickness 8mm + 2mm interior chamfer
post #1435 of 5323

I believe a distancer is made to extend the cup's length and to bring the drivers closer to your ears. I could be wrong on that though. Anyone care to chime in?

 

Also, I think you're going to want to make your wall thickness a little larger than 2mm since you're a novice turner, getting down that thin would be hard even for an experienced turner without shattering the wall. I'd double that. 

 

Also, make sure to get your inside hollowed out before you hog off the outside wood, you're less likely to shatter your wall if you do the inside first. 

 

Oh also, try to make your cups one solid piece, that way you don't have to worry about glue lines and your cups failing at a weak point.

post #1436 of 5323
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post

Can someone explain what a "distancer" is?

   

 

 

xP1010088.jpg

 

xP1010013.jpg

 

_P1010084.jpg

 

Thread

 

 

 

post #1437 of 5323
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Looks "sharpie"ish to me. Nightslayer, are your cups one or two pieces? that looks similar to what I am going for after staining and finding some suitable grille material. What wood is that?

Yeap, was done with a sharpie heh (: And they're two pieces, with the top part (that the grille is connected to which basically keeps the grille in) being a separate piece from the rest of the shell. The wood is Red Oak, was sent by someone else. Am still looking around for a woodworker who could hopefully make cocobolo or mahogany cups for me (:
 

post #1438 of 5323

Looks like they're actually meant to bring the driver further away from you're ear. Interesting. 

post #1439 of 5323

Yeah...I think that is the point is to get the driver away from your ear to open up the sound stage. You get the same effect by using Jumbos although I don't think it is nearly as much as using the distancer or the two together. I am not sure if the distancer has the same effect as the Jumbos as far as loosing some of the mid range though. I would like to give some a try one day.

post #1440 of 5323

Jumbos don't work on normal Gradessandros they weren't originally built for, kills the mids section, and the soundscape thing from GS1K or PS1K doesn't work. The distancer as such adds a bit soundscape, but nothing spectacular. But the distancer in the bundle with Jumbo has an astonishing synergy, you get very audiophile AGK sort of mids, an additional deep bass layer and a cathedral-like soundscape. But you also get a bit more treble, to compensate this, you have to do pad lining in the Jumbo. Before reformulating my whole MS1000 thread (link in signature), I simply quote that part here. Punch hole mod for those who want even more bass slam.

 

Quote:
FURTHER MODIFICATIONS
 
  • Punch hole mod

 

You open the back of your MS1 (best method is warming it with up before, by means of a hairdryer from sideways) so that you get access to the rear side of the driver. You'll see that it's covered with some black fleece stuff. Now you take a pencil or something similar and punch 4 holes into the fleece.

_P1010131.jpg?t=1287227069

 

The result is an increase of the bass amount, especially the kick bass section. I do not recommend more than 4 holes, unless if you are a severe basshead. That mod is only suited for the smaller models having the plastic sound chamber as to be seen on the pic above (MS1, MS2, SR60-325), do not do it with higher tier models (MS Pro, RS1 etc.) as you'll end up in a rumbling midfi mess!

 

 

  • Pad coating

 

It turned out that coating of the inner parts does not only increase the comfort (I personally find the foam a bit scratchy). It also has a similar (but better) effect to undesired brightness as putting felt or fleece thingies on or in the distancer. In difference to that fleece- or felt thingies, you don't put a barrier in the way, hence bass amount and detailling do not get damaged. In addition, you'll get much more warmth into the overall sound sig.

_P1010132.jpg?t=1287227068

 

Material of the coating and its ability still to provide sufficient breathing matters though. It's a fine line with the pad lining between the smooth and "real" sound it brings and it slipping over in to muffled and too thick a sound. NoXter & me had the best results with ordinary T-shirt textile material, you may experiement a bit before the final fixation. A provisorical fixation of the test pattern may be done by means of needles, final fixation may be done with ordinary paper glue.

 

I personally haven't tried it, but I guess by means of pad coating it will be possible to do the MS1000 with the shriller models (MS2, SR325, etc.) as well, as its effect can be really mighty, dependend from choice of coating material.

 

 

Allover, the punch-hole-mod and the pad coating are a very nice bundle. You'll get 98% of the nicer MS-Pro "Ultimate" tonality when applying both modifications together. Not the sheer resolution and blackness though, there's still a gap between the 99$ and the 700$ model...

 

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