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Modding my ONEAC Power Conditioner

post #1 of 37
Thread Starter 
*SNIP* [Removed quote]

If you want to look at the specs of my ONEAC, follow this link. It is the CP1105 model.

So anyways, I figure that changing the screws, removing the circuit board, doing a rewire and installing the auricaps should not be all too difficult.

I also bought a hospital grade wall outlet and was thinking about pulling the two outlets from the ONEAC and installing it in their place. I only need to plug two devices into it anyways, so I can leave the other slot empty [or perhaps hardwire some Quail PC's there].

I figured that I could pull the stock power cord from the ONEAC and replace it with a Quail PC as well. I plan on removing the ferrites from my Quail PC's that I will be using with components, but should I leave the ferrites on the one on the ONEAC? Biggie mentions that his higher end ONEAC has a ferrite somewhere, would I get the same effect if I left the ferrites on the cord? I know that people say that ferrites limit dynamics and such, but will this be an issue if the ferrites are in between the wall and the power conditioner?

Any suggestions or ideas would be welcome. I will probably try to mod it this weekend. I still need to get the auricaps off of Biggie though, so I will probably do that part later.

Thanks in advance,

- Jason
post #2 of 37
A Class X, X1 or X2 capacitor should be used when connecting across the live and neutral wires.
It should give you the same effect as an Auricap but wouldn't burst into flames if anything should happen.
Alternatively, a Y1 capacitor can also be used but that's more for Live/ Neutral to Earth.

For the X1/ X2 capacitor, you can get an Evox Rifa or Wima piece for relatively low-cost. Happy modding!
post #3 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamslacker
A Class X, X1 or X2 capacitor should be used when connecting across the live and neutral wires.
It should give you the same effect as an Auricap but wouldn't burst into flames if anything should happen.
This is a possibility with the Auricaps? Yikes!
post #4 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by philodox
This is a possibility with the Auricaps? Yikes!
Class X & Y capacitors have bodies that don't burn up if the capacitor breaks down and shorts out. Not so if you take a lighter and try to burn it.

The Auricap and other boutique caps aren't made with such bodies.
post #5 of 37
Anyway.. I'll quote from Wima's website:

Quote:
In addition WIMA MP capacitors are fully impregnated under vacuum and encapsulated with self-extinguishing material. There are no air pockets and contact of the capacitor paper with oxygen is not possible.

Extensive tests have shown that, even when high energy pulses are applied, WIMA metallized paper capacitors are not actively flammable because of the high breakdown strength and significantly better regeneration behaviour of the metallized paper.
post #6 of 37
Thread Starter 
Cool, thanks for the help.

Anyone have any idea about if I should leave the ferrites if I hack up a Quail PC to replace the stock one on the ONEAC?
post #7 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by philodox
Cool, thanks for the help.

Anyone have any idea about if I should leave the ferrites if I hack up a Quail PC to replace the stock one on the ONEAC?
Some people feel that the ferrites do limit dynamics like the EMI filter you'd be removing..
I'd say it's your call.. They can help clean up noise a little but I'm not too sure if they'd limit the dynamics on your system.
post #8 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamslacker
Some people feel that the ferrites do limit dynamics like the EMI filter you'd be removing..
I'd say it's your call.. They can help clean up noise a little but I'm not too sure if they'd limit the dynamics on your system.
That is what I figured... I guess I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around how they could limit the dynamics if they are placed before the transformer. Maybe I should just install an IEC on the back of the ONEAC so that I can try both.
post #9 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by philodox
Ok, so I'll start off the thread with the mods that were recommended to me by forum member NotoriousBIG_PJ:If you want to look at the specs of my ONEAC, follow this link. It is the CP1105 model.
What is the exact use of this, the equipment behind it?

Quote:
So anyways, I figure that changing the screws, removing the circuit board, doing a rewire and installing the auricaps should not be all too difficult.
Not difficult and not useful unless it had been defective or falling apart from (shelf rot?).

Quote:
I also bought a hospital grade wall outlet and was thinking about pulling the two outlets from the ONEAC and installing it in their place.
Hospital grade adapter = complete waste of $$ relative to any good outlet, good meaning simply, electrically fit for the amperage.


Quote:
I only need to plug two devices into it anyways, so I can leave the other slot empty [or perhaps hardwire some Quail PC's there.

I figured that I could pull the stock power cord from the ONEAC and replace it with a Quail PC as well.
Waste of time unless cord was damaged or insufficient.


Quote:
I plan on removing the ferrites from my Quail PC's that I will be using with components, but should I leave the ferrites on the one on the ONEAC?
Why use a line conditioner if you're just going to disassemble it? You're just UNconditioning the filter and allowing more noise through.


Quote:
Biggie mentions that his higher end ONEAC has a ferrite somewhere, would I get the same effect if I left the ferrites on the cord? I know that people say that ferrites limit dynamics and such, but will this be an issue if the ferrites are in between the wall and the power conditioner?
Ferrites do not limit anything useful. It's power, it's not signal. If you like power noise polluting your signal then sure, remove any or all parts of that filter.

Quote:
Any suggestions or ideas would be welcome. I will probably try to mod it this weekend. I still need to get the auricaps off of Biggie though, so I will probably do that part later.
The useful advise is to leave it alone if it works as the manufacturer intended it. If it lets through too much noise then you could upgrade it. The concept of what you're doing is voodoo at best and not based on any solid principles. IF you find the sound different then you either A) Still had noise getting through it, or B) Like the sound of distortion/
post #10 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
What is the exact use of this, the equipment behind it?
I will be connecting my CD player and headphone amp to it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Not difficult and not useful unless it had been defective or falling apart from (shelf rot?).
Sorry, what isnt usefull? Removing the circuit board gets something out of their that is not needed and rewiring with better wire should be good, no?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Hospital grade adapter = complete waste of $$ relative to any good outlet, good meaning simply, electrically fit for the amperage.
It cost me $15 so I think its a pretty good deal really. These ONEAC units are old and this one is used, I figured that replacing the outlet wouldnt hurt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Waste of time unless cord was damaged or insufficient.
I would assume that the Quail PC is of better quality as the one that is in the unit standard looks like a computer power plug.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Why use a line conditioner if you're just going to disassemble it? You're just UNconditioning the filter and allowing more noise through.
Allowing more noise through? How is that? And how am I unconditioning the filter by upgrading the parts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Ferrites do not limit anything useful. It's power, it's not signal. If you like power noise polluting your signal then sure, remove any or all parts of that filter.
Ok, how do you explain all of the people that say that ferrites limit dynamics?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
The useful advise is to leave it alone if it works as the manufacturer intended it. If it lets through too much noise then you could upgrade it. The concept of what you're doing is voodoo at best and not based on any solid principles. IF you find the sound different then you either A) Still had noise getting through it, or B) Like the sound of distortion
Who the hell pissed in your cornflakes this morning? Thanks for your critique, but if you don't have any actual advice to post you needn't bother visiting this thread.

My motivation behind this was to tweak and possibly improve a component in my system. Nothing more.
post #11 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by philodox
I will be connecting my CD player and headphone amp to it.Sorry, what isnt usefull?
Better question is, What IS useful?


Quote:
Removing the circuit board gets something out of their that is not needed
And this is important because you need the extra room?
You are certain this "is not needed"?

Quote:
and rewiring with better wire should be good, no?
No. It's pointless unless there was a physical problem with it. That is, that it was not as the manufacturer intended.


Quote:
It cost me $15 so I think its a pretty good deal really. These ONEAC units are old and this one is used, I figured that replacing the outlet wouldnt hurt.
Nor help, unless there was a problem with it.


Quote:
I would assume that the Quail PC is of better quality as the one that is in the unit standard looks like a computer power plug.
Then you probably assumed wrong, unless you have a specific need that isn't addressed by the original... which isn't "quality" per se, it's a functionality issue.


Quote:
Allowing more noise through? How is that? And how am I unconditioning the filter by upgrading the parts?
You have not thoroughly described what you're going to do, but what you've described so far is not useful to the extent it's been described. You mention no problem you're trying to combat and it seems you have jumped to a flase conclusion about the role of equipment power. If you have not measured the input power to the device with a scope and found it bad, nor see any electical problems with it, I recommend you not touch this at all, leave it alone.


Quote:
Ok, how do you explain all of the people that say that ferrites limit dynamics?
Because they're clueless? It's power. It needs be (relative to the equipment)) clean, that's it, all.


Quote:
Who the hell pissed in your cornflakes this morning?
Would you rather I lied and pretended these were useful tings to do? I suppose it would stroke the ego but still be a disservice to you. Rather than be offended you might consider re-evaluating the whole situation. Just because you CAN mod something doesn't necessary make it a good idea nor useful. What couldn't be modded? You need a clear goal, some scientific principles about why your potential mods might help. Understand the needs, the role of that part in the system and determine if it meets them. Power <> signal.

Further, you reported no noise problems, as if you're trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

Quote:
Thanks for your critique, but if you don't have any actual advice to post you needn't bother visiting this thread.
That WAS advice. Spend the time and money where it's of benefit.

Quote:
My motivation behind this was to tweak and possibly improve a component in my system. Nothing more.
How will you be improving it? What specific gain will there be as it applies to the purpose of the part?

I could upgrade it to have motorized alloy wheels powered by solar panels, but if it's not going to be on a lunar expedition that might not be such a good idea either. Not trying to be a downer about mods, but if you're moddin' just for the sake of "changing something", it's all on your eye, if you like the looks of what you're doing. We can't help you there.
post #12 of 37
Thread Starter 
All of the mods that I listed above were suggested to me by another member. He has performed similar mods on his ONEAC and noticed improvements. That is my motivation. These mods arent going to cost a bunch of money or anything and it is my time. The fact that you don't think power makes any difference to the audio signal and that you call such believers clueless is another example of your bad attitude. It is possible to express your opinion without being an ass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
We can't help you there.
You speak for the entire DIY forum now?
post #13 of 37
Thread Starter 
Well, Murphy's Law just struck.

Looks like I will have to replace the power cable on the ONEAC after all as the ground just broke off in my wall socket.

I think I will replace the socket pair in the ONEAC while I am at it and maybe save the ones that I take out of it to use in my Condo as a couple of mine arent in the best shape.

So there you go, I've got a motivation now.
post #14 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by philodox
All of the mods that I listed above were suggested to me by another member. He has performed similar mods on his ONEAC and noticed improvements. That is my motivation.
Ok, so now you have another person disagreeing with that, and this person suggests actually looking at this from a more logical perspective, determing WHY you need WHAT instead of just doing it then letting the mind play tricks.

It's commonly held that if somone spends a lot of money and time, if the end result is that it looks good, it's then better. True only if better looks were the goal. Pyschologically they may even think it sounds better- and maybe it does, if there was a problem and the mods were to address that problem. So far you write of no problems?


Quote:
These mods arent going to cost a bunch of money or anything and it is my time.
You are entitled to spend your time and money any way that makes you happy, within electrical codes per your geographic region. You ask for feedback and expect everyone to tell you it's the best plan since sliced bread? OK, i can do that if it'll make you happy, that's what is important in the end.


Quote:
The fact that you don't think power makes any difference to the audio signal
Didn't write that did I? Jumping a bit too far I think.
I suggest you determine the power needs of the components and whether you have met them. Determine if there is excessive noise present and if what you're doing is expected to improve that. If you simply WANT to do these mods, so be it. That doesn't mean you will actually get any benefits that some other person claims unless there was a specific problem being rectified.

Quote:
and that you call such believers clueless is another example of your bad attitude. It is possible to express your opinion without being an ass.You speak for the entire DIY forum now?
You broght it up, put the issue out there. No wonder you don't know what you're doing if you reject feedback when it doesn't support your goal. I can see it now, the forum would be really useful if every thread was something like "hey I'm about to do this, shower me with praise", then everyone replied "that's wonderful".

When you get done moddin' this is might end up really nice, but that doesn't mean it was necessary or useful in the context you're placing on it. It'll be FANCY, maybe more durable, maybe not. If those were the expressed goals my post would've address them as well.
post #15 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Ok, so now you have another person disagreeing with that, and this person suggests actually looking at this from a more logical perspective, determing WHY you need WHAT instead of just doing it then letting the mind play tricks.
Logic vs. personal experience. It is a tough choice, both are valid I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
It's commonly held that if somone spends a lot of money and time, if the end result is that it looks good, it's then better. True only if better looks were the goal.
I understand your argument here, but I don't agree with it myself. If I change a component in my system I trust my own ears to hear if there is a difference. I don't see how this is any different. Part of the draw to DIY is experimentation is it not?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
You ask for feedback and expect everyone to tell you it's the best plan since sliced bread?
Nope, I just expect some civility.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
Didn't write that did I? Jumping a bit too far I think.
You wrote "Because they're clueless? It's power. It needs be clean, that's it, all" which seems to be saying that... maybe I am just misunderstanding what you meant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
I suggest you determine the power needs of the components and whether you have met them. Determine if there is excessive noise present and if what you're doing is expected to improve that. If you simply WANT to do these mods, so be it. That doesn't mean you will actually get any benefits that some other person claims unless there was a specific problem being rectified.
Thanks, that seems like good advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
You broght it up, put the issue out there. No wonder you don't know what you're doing if you reject feedback when it doesn't support your goal. I can see it now, the forum would be really useful if every thread was something like "hey I'm about to do this, shower me with praise", then everyone replied "that's wonderful".
I will say again that I do not mind your advice or that you do not agree with me, but I do not appreciate your general attitude. Maybe I am just reading your comments with more of a negative connotation than you intend, but it doesnt seem like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mono
When you get done moddin' this is might end up really nice, but that doesn't mean it was necessary or useful in the context you're placing on it. It'll be FANCY, maybe more durable, maybe not. If those were the expressed goals my post would've address them as well.
Hey, fancy is good.

Anyways, thanks for your comments. I will consider what you have said before attempting anything that is not necissary. Right now I'm swapping that cord though [read my above post... the ground broke ].
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