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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 66

post #976 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
I should point out that I've never heard any of the DT880 variants but I already hate it because it's the headphone Beyer came up with that made them think they could discontinue the ET 1000 electrostatic and get away with it. I'm kidding about hating the 880, but had to take the opportunity to boo Beyer's draconian marketing.

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I would never buy a 880 for that reason as well. The ET1000 is a brilliant headphone, it doesn't excel at anything but is very even handed and neutral. It's also got the honor of using the lowest bias of any electrostatic headphone, 180v, but they work fine with 230v.

All the above tactics are used to create the excessive bass people like these days. Driver excursion is most valuable to us planar bunch but that is a compromise in it self because you will sacrifice the HF response for the extra bass. You can increase the bass of a bass light but accurate driver by pumping more power into them and/or designing a better housing. Planars need a lot of power for the bass region but it's more of a problem with the high voltage brother.
post #977 of 23474
I spent a little time comparing the stock YH-100's to the "Strawberry Donuts" today. It's very hard to imagine that the same drivers are in both headphones. The mids and treble of the YH-100 stock are SOOO cloudy, thick, and dull sounding, and yet in the Donuts the exact opposite is the case - they are amazingly open, clear, and detailed.

Just how is it that Yamaha could take such a nice driver and screw it up so badly with the housing they included? Wasn't this an expensive headphone when it was available new?
post #978 of 23474
Thread Starter 
It wasn't cheap (some of mine have stickers that say $99.99).

It isn't entirely the housing that messes up the YH-100, it's the lack of damping. It would be fun to put the Stage One Point Five YH-100 up against the Donuts to see what differences the housings make.

EDIT: I got tired of the difference I heard between the headphone outputs of my XR10 and XR55 receivers, so I'm recalibrating my whole setup (sigh) using the ancient Pioneer JB-21 headphone adaptor. This connects to the speaker outputs of an amp and lets you plug headphones into an amp that doesn't have a headphone jack. Immediately the bass seems different, but I'm still in the preliminary stages of what will undoubtedly be a tedious re-evaluation of the overall balance of my prime headphones (mostly Fostex and Yamaha). In a sense this is good, since listening to the modded T40v1 yesterday I noticed the bass had a touch of that "see-through" quality that indicates partial cancellation (or a lousy driver) and I wasn't looking forward to ripping the thing apart yet again. Once again I demonstrate to myself that when evaluating a headphone we need to periodically take a break from it and then, with fresh ears, confront it anew. Ho, headphone! En garde! After all, you may love your headphones, but they don't love you back.


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post #979 of 23474
I'd be surprised if the strawberry donuts are significantly better in terms of SQ than my modded YH-100 in the original housing, which can keep up with vintage stax and blow away any dynamic headphones I've ever had, and I've had many. I think Wualta's right that the key thing is the damping of the driver. Obviously the donuts look better and I'll bet they're more comfortable, though.

In other news, I'm finally in Boston and have heard my stock realistic pro 30s for the first time: a weak muddy mess, of the kind I've learned to regard as promising. I really wish I hadn't sold my stereo-terminated HP-50a (originally the mono version of the HP-3, as you could see somewhere or other in this thread) so that I could now do a 3-way showdown between modded budget orthos: Audio Technica, Yamaha, and Commie. Maybe another pair will turn up by the time I set myself to the felt and dots.
post #980 of 23474
I hooked up my SFI square mid-ranges to the receiver amp, and did a listen:
* need damping on the back to get good bass and reduce mids. without damping there was just too much mids (well, midrange speakers they are, so no surprise).
* With damping and velour pads, bass is full & very impactful, and the mids are sweet (for the lack of better words), kind of remind me the electrostatic mids. Good clarity.
* A lot of fine details are missing. The sound is smooth and pleasant though. I guess the diaphragm is too thick.
* Not much treble, so these will only work for vocal, though they play vocal very well.
* Velour pads are a must, they don't sound good K1000 style.

Have fun
post #981 of 23474
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by facelvega
In other news, I'm finally in Boston and have heard my stock realistic pro 30s for the first time: a weak muddy mess...
Glad to have you back in the States. This means the dissertation is being chewed on by the authorities and we can start calling you "Doc".

The Pro 30 undergoes a transformation not unlike the YH-100's, though not as total.

I should point out that the primary hope I hold out for the Donut-type housing is the restoration of a dipole birthright, wide headstage, but without messing up or trading off the other qualities. Full open dipole headstage is something even the T50 doesn't have, so if one of Steve's designs can deliver it, we will have reached the next evolutionary step.

But yes, the main step up in pure sound quality is damping and to a lesser extent dotting.

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post #982 of 23474
Bahhhh

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=140151812452

I didn't even bother to bid on it, the price jumped by a factor of 100 as I was bidding. Damn I really wanted those they look just like magic.....

I really did wish that the museum would post more listening impressions.

I'll just be in the corner with my cheep shrill little pro30s muttering if you need me for anything.
post #983 of 23474
Thread Starter 
What manner of headphones those Sansuis be?

Maybe WertherDVX will tell us.



The Pro 30 is supposed to be a cheap thrill, not a cheep shrill. There should be plenty of bass if you use the cheap-thrill acrylic felt. Let us know what you did to mod them and we'll troubleshoot it until... (forgive me).. The Shrill is Gone.

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post #984 of 23474
Ok there not shrill they're excellent I'm just being overly dramatic and trying to keep at least one Ortho undervalued. So just to be clear the pro 30s are not shrill but they do have very sharp points on the headband that cause intense pain when you wear them for more than 10 minutes.

I'm curious actually to find out what the good doc will think of them with a bit of felt and a dot. We'll just have to see what werther has to say when he gets them. It would be nice because it appears that they have all the right stuff.
post #985 of 23474
The earcups (eardiscs, really) are reminiscent of the Pioneer SE-700 but the construction is so different that i don't believe they contain HPM piezo drivers.

They don't look like toshiba back-electrets, either.

I'm curious, but suspect that they contain the same shallow mylar cone driver as so many other thin headphones of the era.
post #986 of 23474
That's crazy expensive even by my standards. The only thing I could find out about them is that they are omni-dynamic, whatever that means...
post #987 of 23474
the winner seems to be into headphones, maybe he is lurking around in the forum as we speak......
post #988 of 23474
I thought due to the lack of info I could scoop those ss-100s up for under $80. With such a high selling price maybe some will get flushed out of the closet.

Back to the lowly Pro-30s I can't remember who it was who had suggested that removing metal plate on the back may be a good thing to try. I did do a bit of disk removal on one of my pairs and it has given it more "head-stage" and open air sound. From looking under the cap one could remove the inner plastic disk and replace it with mesh, that may be the next step I take.

I can imagine that the original design and molds for the pro-30s were designed to be like this and somewhere a design decision was made to lessen the amount of venting. One can see where a smaller badge would have fit perfectly on the headphone.
post #989 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by JadeEast View Post
Back to the lowly Pro-30s I can't remember who it was who had suggested that removing metal plate on the back may be a good thing to try. I did do a bit of disk removal on one of my pairs and it has given it more "head-stage" and open air sound. From looking under the cap one could remove the inner plastic disk and replace it with mesh, that may be the next step I take.
Might have been me - it's something I've considered doing.

How'd you get them off?

I've got some scraps of perforated aluminum that i use for various projects - could dremel out the inner circle there on the back of the earcup and fit a disc of perfed aluminum into the back of the cup.

But, have you felted these at all?

btw, the inner ring of vents does open up to the outside - just a tiny bit around the edge of the aluminum.

At any rate they seem to be a close relative of the ATH-2.
post #990 of 23474
Yeah, the SS-100 is an iso of some sort. It's listed as a foreign version of the Амфитон ТДС-15 (Amfiton TDS-15) in a chart of Soviet headphones that was posted by a Russian head-fier earlier in this thread.



The SS-100 drivers can be bought here for $15 each, btw.

http://www.woodang.net/OtherParts.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by JadeEast
I thought due to the lack of info I could scoop those ss-100s up for under $80.
Sorry to dissapoint, but the days of obscure headphones (and good deals) don't really exist anymore. Even I was hunting for these months ago and I don't even like orthos that much.
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