Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 529

Yeah - HE60 stax plug, O2 Mk1, O2 Mk2, Jade, ESP950 (APS modded and stax PC-OCC cable), SR-Lambda, SR-5NB gold edition, SR-003 and now Smegma Pro (Gamma Pro drivers and headband with SR-007 earpads and Smeggy wood cups).

If they are ready for consumption, please go ahead and send them tomorrow billed to my FedEx account and using the cheapest overnight they have (afternoon delivery) to the business address that I PM'd you. They need to know that address is a business so they don't try to deliver after 6:00PM. You have my cell phone # for the shipping, and my email to have them send tracking.

But, if there isn't time to do final assembly and tweakage without compromising something, I'd rather have them done right than done on time by rushing you - Regardless of whether 5 other people are counting on you to get them here on time. Heck, I've been waiting since August, so what's another week or two

If absolutely necessary I'll make sure you have my home address for Saturday delivery, but the cost for overnight Saturday delivery will be sucky for sure.

Thanks!

Picture? You seem to have sealed it well. How about the pads then?
Also, how low does it go without damping, strips, discs, pile of goo on the magnets, etc?

No problems Larry,

pics after final assembly..







I hope you likes 'em

Cheers

OMG!! :droolsmiley:

I gots to haves my precioussssss.....

absolutely gorgeous - you are the man smeggy ..dB

this is very dependent on the individual headphone. It takes a lot of tuning and if those cups are truly sealed, you need to drill a small hole to vent them. cups make a huge difference too

I'm not about to open it up to take a picture right this minute (its a real pain in the @$$ given the pads are a b!tch to get back on, and then I have to reapply the blu-tack all around the sides underneath the pads etc etc.

and again I have no idea how low they go with no dampening, not about to remove everything I did to find out, would take hours.

The felt around the front of the drivers is solely for comfort, its hard (and sharp since I cut the plastic thingy that was there over the driver) plastic underneath and not comfortable without some fabric there.

And anyone know why sony put a Music ----- Movie switch on the sides of the cans? it's not actually hooked up to anything (and never was....)

smeggy..i am amazed every time I see one of your creations...I envy all those who have one of those babies.

I listed to Donalds's SFi smeggies and was blown away...the craftsmanship is jaw dropping.

Coming back to the SFIs, man these have a ton of bass..my pickerings now have the deepest bass me thinks..deeper than the Yh-100s...

I just finished modding the Hp2s as well.

It was interesting to note that the HP-2 had a ring of thick felt around the sides of the cup (damping the sides of the driver), then there was a ring of rubber or something similar around the center of the cup (similar to what Tomek had done for his Yh-100 with the bitumen on the back of the cup). I chose to leave those two things be and added my layers of damping..

They are sounding good..I want to evaluate them a bit further. The bass from the SFIs is mind boggling though. I have one more step to do before I am done with this set of SFis..the left cup needs to be damped a bit more mechanically (the front baffle). Gonna get some blu tack to finish the job and keep things even between the left and right cups.

The cashmere made a big difference too. It sounds a lot more controlled in the mids and the highs. But i feel It could use a little more tuning with the felt layer after the cashmere and playing with a reflex dot.

Oh,

one more thing. I feel that with a deeper set of pads and not like how it is, almost against the ear, the Yh-100s should have tremendous bass..Just a hunch..

Great, great work, as usual, smeggy. I bet they sound fantastic.

I'm stuck with finding a SR-3 or SR-5 frame.

Beautiful.

I tried blutak like that but it didn't work well. May I suggest that you get rid of all the blutak around the sides of the pads and underneath the pads? (not inside the cans of course, we haven't seen that yet...)

Instead, buy a thin sheet of air tight hobby foam, cut a baffle, and glue it onto the pads. You can use a glue-stick of paper glue. It's weak, so you can take it off easily, and use something better when you are done. (I use a different glue for things that are not meant to be taken apart...). Then you can open and close your cans as often as you want, and it will most likely work better too.

ummm I dont think that would, seeing as that would leave the big gaping 1/8-1/16 of an inch opening underneath the pads/the baffle wide open....the blutack isnt there for the pads, its there because the crappy design sony had left a big opening between the front baffle and the cans.

I think I will be removing the layer of felt altogether. The cashmere should do plenty ( as Donald aptly advised me earlier today).

The top end sparkle is gone a bit and I want it back..

However, the headphones are more easy to listen to...earlier there was too much mid and highs energy making me feel tired after listening for a while.

I've got 11 cents to my name at the moment, lol. What about say a thick layer of hot glue around the edges of the cups instead of blu-tack (prior to screwing the baffle in) then screw the baffle in creating a pressure seal around it?

or even bubble wrap...