Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 524

I think you just need denser stuff to tame the bass even more. I have a thick Australian wool felt that might work as an intermediate layer. Will try to send it in the next trans-oceanic shipment.

Yeah, that sounds very good to me Ludo, let me know how much it is. These 'phones seem to need as much damping as they can get. BTW, do you have any idea what kind of deflection you see on your bass heavy HP-3 diaphragm when you blow on it?

How much? Nothing. Unless you need 1 sq mt.

As for the HP-3, I hear the diaphragm flapping and crinkling just pushing lightly on the cups when wearing them, when there's no music playing. When I opened them to check on what the noise was, I could clearly see the diaphragm moving inside the small holes when blowing on the driver or flapping it.

I am with you on this. It's exactly how I felt when owning them. Maybe very thick and dense cashmere felt would do the trick, were it easy to find. Someone should rape some navy coats.

Otherwise, what I am thinking is that you could try some specific pads, like Grado pads among those giving the brightest response (GS1000?)

Oh my, I just had a thought!! The crazyness of Tony's NAD's bassyness. And how difficult it is to achieve treble.

Now its possible Cetoole that you might require a level of treble that goes way beyond my comprehension . BUT, My guess/theory is that you have a corroded cable, just like my HP-50S, causing it to have some crazy bass that wont go away.

The NADs probably have that Aluminium solder warning, but I think the higher ups here said that you can use normal solder.....or Cardas...?

What do you think?

(actually something that flies in the face of my theory is that your set is boxed and in mint condition....but who knows...)

Ludo, you are too good to us orthoheads. I think my HP-1 is the only headphone that doesnt have your felt in it, though I think I do need to slightly revisit it. Dont get me wrong, I absolutely adore the HP-1, but it is a hair slow. Currently craft felt against the driver, stock felt against the vents, ericj superfelt against the back of the enclosure, with open cell foam keeping everything tight. No driver gasket either, though I dont have any complaints about the bass really.

I hear no driver crinkling, but I would estimate at least 1mm deflection in the center of the diaphragm. Of course, mine is larger (hehe) and not clamped in the center, but it isnt subtle. I actually had a weird sound sort of like you describe coming from my HP-1 (which I have on right now), but it turned out to be the pivot for the earcup, and cleaning it out temporarily fixed the issue.

I dont think Grado pads would be the best, but I could try a quick test with some flats. I gave some thought to a SR-225 last night, but passed. The AT leather pads should be about perfect though, and if you remember, Steve (swt61) used L3000 pads on his donuts, which are basically the same shape with a different surface finish on the leather.

Not a fan of bright sound, which is part of what I like with the 'stats, hyper detail and fast, but no spikes in the treble at all. I get this from orthos too, and as they tend to be even a bit more rolled off, it is a very non fatiguing sound. Most dynamics, and this is, of course, music dependent, bother my ears.

I will be recabling these, if for no other reason than to get away from a spiral cable, but it actually is in the best shape of any of my ortho cables. I didnt notice an aluminium solder only note inside, but not really worried about it. My preference for solder is Kester 44, 63/37.

Colin, let us know how the flat pads work.

I think you are doing right in heavily modding the housing/cable of the RP18. They wonderful shape has turned off almost anyone from raping them, but it's about time to bring them to their full potential.

I would highly recommend converting it to stereo and making a mono adapter for the organ. My HP50A's have greater depth and "musicality" compared the YP1 or YP3, this holds true for Yogi's pair too. They are not as technically good as the YP1 however (read stat like speed - but no slouch either), so it depends what the comparative basis is..dB

The great thing is you can heavily mod these without raping or even modding the housing. The driver baffle is, IMO, brilliant, and would be easy to transplant to another frame without damaging anything, so it is easy to go back to stock. Its a pretty headphone, but not one I find overly comfy still, and this is the ortho I want to try and take as far as it can go, just to see how it reacts.

Man it is tough to get into orthos now with the eBay prices floating around. If anyone is feeling generous and wants to sell me an unmodded pair for me to tinker with let me know

edit: The Kenwood KH83 headband is awesome. I would have probably modded my grados to fit 'em.

BLASPHEMY !!!

but it is a free world and each to his own

You should try the Fostex T50RP ..dB

Agreed, T50rp should be the default first ortho for new folks, unless they happen to get lucky on another pair. Local classifieds are where it is at, even if they arnt local to you. My HP-50A came from canada, found a listing on Kijiji in London, Ontario, and it ended up costing me only $20, shipped. Takes a lot of hunting though to find these, when you can find and order an excellent T50rp in about 30 seconds.

Yeah I have my eye on them right now. I think I will start looking into ortho more seriously once I get some respectable speakers.

oddly, they; fostex t50rp's were on my doorstep when i got home. such mixed reviews on this model. my first orthos. buying used is risky, good to see your happy and lucky!
now, who got the kenwoods? beautiful...

You bought used T50rp? Risky, that, hopefully you got new style pads.