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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 432

post #6466 of 21644
12/28/08 at 11:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post
Well that was an interesting auction.
Ok who beat me, own up
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post #6467 of 21644
12/29/08 at 1:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis
Well that was an interesting auction.
A T30 with original box going for $140 shipped? Sure was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis
What do people think of the T40RP MkII (whatever that is)? Does it have any potential to be good? Do you think the pads also changed in some way?
As far as we can tell without actually hearing one, it looks for all the world like a T50RP with different graphics and maybe some of the little vents filled in.

But so far, no one has gotten a freshly-minted T40RP mk II to find out if its pads have had their firmware upgraded, to coin a phrase. In fact, I don't think anyone here has even seen, much less owns, a T40RP mk II.

If you spot one, examine it closely/ask for photos. Otherwise, grab it only if you have a good idea where you're going to get some suitable Head-Fi Quality-Approved pads for it. Last I checked, Fostex's online store was out. Of everything. With a big sign that said "Take your filthy money and go away, why don't you. We were doing just fine til YOU showed up".


Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis
Just wondering if the current gens can be as good or even better.
Right now, all we have is hope based on Fostex's willingness to step up and give the T50RP the pads it should've started with. We can guess, but we know nothing for certain.

All it would take for a T40RP mkII to have a more Team-Ortho-Approved sound would be for Fostex to reduce its diaphragm's tension. Perhaps a neck massage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis
Also, if the T20RP MkII and the T50RP have the same drivers, are they just BSing the frequency specs and power handling capability?
Not at all. Not necessarily, anyway. As we know, pads can affect frequency response, and power handling in a planar with an etched voice coil is partly a quality control function. However, headphone specs very seldom tell us what we really need to know. The basically define the limits of what the company is willing stand behind as far as their product's "merchantability" is concerned. They don't want us to hold them responsible for our toes failing to tap.

Public Service Announcement: Team Ortho faces the sad prospect of not knowing anything about an ortho type headphone that's easily obtainable and currently in production. Won't you help save them from this embarrassment? Next time you see a T40RP mk II or even a T20RP mk II, step up and say "Mister Vendor, I, yes, I will purchase this headphone to help my fellow orthocists, whose teeth are e'en now gnashing in the darkness." Buy, yea, buy everlastingly. Thank you.
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post #6468 of 21644
12/29/08 at 1:37am
Yes, that auction would be the one. It certainly looked to be in very good condition, and I could also see why it would be uncomfortable to wear. I just bought a T50RPv2 (hopefully) so I didn't even bother bidding.

Thanks for all the help, wualta. If I come to really like the T50RP I might pick up a T40RP MkII for the heck of it. Then I'd be up to my ears in Fostexen. None of the really vintage ones, though.
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post #6469 of 21644
12/29/08 at 1:48am

fixing headband on Yamaha HP1s

the headband with the suede like material has broken in two places along the outer plastic that the suede like material is glued to. is there any known repair for this inner headband on these cans?. I would also like to consider rewiring these too. I saw another thread earlier recommending APureSound - Where The Music Is Always Pure - APS Audio LLC. for rewiring. any other ideas? thanks.
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post #6470 of 21644
12/29/08 at 2:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcginc View Post
the headband with the suede like material has broken in two places along the outer plastic that the suede like material is glued to. is there any known repair for this inner headband on these cans?. I would also like to consider rewiring these too. I saw another thread earlier recommending APureSound - Where The Music Is Always Pure - APS Audio LLC. for rewiring. any other ideas? thanks.
Refurbish Yamaha HP-1 headphone
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post #6471 of 21644
12/29/08 at 3:51am
Now that's cool! thanks so much FAUST2D. I got to about page 123 of the 647 thread tonight. My HP1s have never sounded so good. I have Senn 650's with equinox wiring and the HP1s invoke more emotion within the music. Can't wait to mod the padding and wiring... hoo hoo! Gotta go, Peter Frampton's in my ear!
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post #6472 of 21644
12/29/08 at 4:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcginc View Post
Now that's cool! thanks so much FAUST2D. I got to about page 123 of the 647 thread tonight. My HP1s have never sounded so good. I have Senn 650's with equinox wiring and the HP1s invoke more emotion within the music. Can't wait to mod the padding and wiring... hoo hoo! Gotta go, Peter Frampton's in my ear!
As for cable, there's a technical explanation why cables have little influence on orthos, but I keep forgetting it. Wualta has repeated it at least twice, you will stumble upon it while browsing the thread.

But there's a difference in sound when you recable old Yamahas, probably due to the old cable being oxidized. Most of us use Canare mini quad cable, which is good quality and reasonably cheap. Expect more details, more air and a cleaner, slightly brighter sound if you recable them.
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post #6473 of 21644
12/29/08 at 5:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ludoo View Post
As for cable, there's a technical explanation why cables have little influence on orthos, but I keep forgetting it. Wualta has repeated it at least twice, you will stumble upon it while browsing the thread.

But there's a difference in sound when you recable old Yamahas, probably due to the old cable being oxidized. Most of us use Canare mini quad cable, which is good quality and reasonably cheap. Expect more details, more air and a cleaner, slightly brighter sound if you recable them.
See here and I'll quote wualta on this; I think this came from the 6th post in this epic story of orthos (which, once you've read about 300 pages in, you've become dedicated and obsessed with advancing ortho research, regardless if you have a pair or not).

Anyway, here is the quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta
I remember seeing those outputs on '70s Yamaha receivers and wondered if they'd actually optimized the outputs for the impedance and efficiency of the Orthodynamics. Not that they really had to: like Magneplanar speakers, the Yamas present an essentially resistive load to the amp. That is, this type of headphone is the easiest kind of load, nearly pure resistance, able to be driven properly by any amp with enough power, and unaffected by the varying stray inductance and capacitance of exotic cables and boutique amps.
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post #6474 of 21644
12/29/08 at 7:13am
I promise I'll buy a T50RP.... one day

It is pretty strange we're all paying over the odds for old orthos when there's brand spankin new ones filling the shelves of every pro music shop on the planet. Personally I blame wualta for trashing them early on in this thread and putting us all off

However, with their latest tweaks and new pads it might well be worth a look as soon as I can dig up a spare $65 or so. At the very least I'll have another driver to dismember.
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post #6475 of 21644
12/29/08 at 7:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post
Ok who beat me, own up
who me? noooooo... i am but a humble peasant.



or am i
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post #6476 of 21644
12/29/08 at 8:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv View Post
who me? noooooo... i am but a humble peasant.



or am i
Hahaa, out-ninja'd, . Good play sir!

Also, does anyone have any Stax electret, SR-X, or Realistic Pro 30 style pads spare?
I would like to buy a pair for a Smeggy SFI creation being made...

Thanks.
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post #6477 of 21644
12/29/08 at 9:48am

Desktop SFI speakers

With my last set of SFI drivers, I would like to build a pair of very small desktop speakers to use with my computer/laptop. They will play from very near (about 40-50cm), I will power them with a headphone amp and I don't need much quality nor volume from them, but I would like to preserve as much bass as possible. Since I'm a total noob at speakers design, I would appreciate any input or pointers from you all.
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post #6478 of 21644
12/29/08 at 10:39am
While you people are shopping inferior western technology headphones, I have just received the pinnacle of eastern european ortho headphone technology from Stixx. W/o pads, but with some damping, it appears. Most obvious bass roll-off occurs around 55-60 hz.

The HOK80-2 is rather uncomfortable w/o the pads. Instead of pads, Stixx sent me two foam sheets so that I can make new pads.
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post #6479 of 21644
12/29/08 at 11:23am
I've been listening to the YHD-1 for the past week or so, and I really like the sound unmodded. Comfort leaves a lot to be desired though. The thin foam really does not do much and the inner edge of the cups dig into my ear cartilage. It needs very slightly more padding. I think even the traditional Yamaha pads might be a little too thick. I should get to working on them one day this week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
I promise I'll buy a T50RP.... one day

It is pretty strange we're all paying over the odds for old orthos when there's brand spankin new ones filling the shelves of every pro music shop on the planet. Personally I blame wualta for trashing them early on in this thread and putting us all off

However, with their latest tweaks and new pads it might well be worth a look as soon as I can dig up a spare $65 or so. At the very least I'll have another driver to dismember.
The Guitar Center near me stopped carrying Fostex headphones. I was disappointed.
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post #6480 of 21644
12/29/08 at 12:02pm
I can highly recommend soft leather. It did miracles to my Grundig pads.

Outside of the cup, the HOK-80 goes quite high at the 22db mark on the xcan (far too high volume to use for listening), but if turn it up more, the sound start to distort.

The HOK80 was easy to take apart, following the instruction from ericj, and out fell the annoying ring dingus.

It looks like these could be difficult to seal properly.
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