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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1590

post #23836 of 23847
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

was reading some posts and they seemed to say it will stick to your tip and be hard to get off, possibly wreck the tip, but so long as you get it all off without obviously heating up the tab too much, apparently yes you can replace it with other solder once clean. Not many posts to search through actually ( 2 pages worth ) best have a look to be sure, I just searched " aluminum solder "

need tips for alum solder? read my previous posts about reconnecting the loosing solder connectivity of my previous T10..all you need is an oil (from car or motorcycle machine oil) to make it work with conventional solder tools, Nick..wink.gif
Edited by iQEM - 3/2/15 at 5:26am
post #23837 of 23847
Pulled the vinyl donuts back off of the yhd-3 in favor of the foam donut & fabric for comfort reasons.

Removed one of the viva layers because i felt they were over-damped.

Sound is good but oddly harsh? Piano can be kinda painful.

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
post #23838 of 23847

thanks iQEM !




It is strange that those are harsh. They should be the same drivers as the YHE-50's but I noticed a bit of edginess also in stock form still here. I was going to toy with making the pads shallower like the stock YHE-50 are, I  THINK I pressed the small vinyl pads closer and it edged off that edge  a bit more. YHE-50 I find stock are not like that at all. Wonder if it is production variances or>??

the housings are identical, drivers seem identical.

I have not yet remounted the pleather pads so that the pad bottom rests on the baffle face and the flaps fold out and over, this seems to drop it a bit closer but is it enough, unsure yet.


Did you add the plastidip spray maybe that...




They sure look good.

Edited by nick n - 3/3/15 at 1:56pm
post #23839 of 23847

I took one of the donut holes and sprayed it with plasti-dip. the results were not good - the foam absorbs the dip and becomes hard. 


So, no. just makeup sponge donut w/ fabric. 


I found my black felt so I will cut some circles soon. fwiw i have been testing these with the mini-rig used at work -- foobar2k flac -> amb y2 dac -> o2 amp. 


They sounded harsher with the Total Bithead i have knocking around by this laptop at home, but that's probably just because the chips in that amp are kinda shouty. 

post #23840 of 23847

Unfortunately I think that the cable on my Yamaha HP1s has come to the end of it's life. can anyone suggest the easiest way to recable HP1s? it would be good to replace the cable with a high quality one that isn't too expensive.



post #23841 of 23847

You should try to find one that has the same thickness where they split off and where they enter the cups, so you can slide on the old strain reliefs again and make them seal up properly without having to modify that point on each cup. Don't have to but it makes it easier.

  I use whatever is around generally, but I know someone in here must have a preference. \

Maybe leeperry he is big on this series.


Please check back in when you do it. Pictures preferrably !

Edited by nick n - 3/3/15 at 9:51pm
post #23842 of 23847
Originally Posted by ferrytrainhp1 View Post

Unfortunately I think that the cable on my Yamaha HP1s has come to the end of it's life. can anyone suggest the easiest way to recable HP1s? it would be good to replace the cable with a high quality one that isn't too expensive.



Is your cable actually damaged or are you concerned that it is old? The original cables actually impart some of the character to the HP1 so I have stopped trying to replace them if I can. Mogami quad mic cable is a pretty good fit in the US ( in order to reuse the strain relief ) .



post #23843 of 23847

Figured I had best rescue this thread before it got to page 5 and started attracting flies ( which really should never happen in a sane world ).


So there was a TH700 up today Buy It Now I was sorely tempted by but frugality prevailed and while I hummed and hawed it sold, nice box, every manner of connector cable imaginable. Typical white flaked away pads and sadly the price factor was a big deterrent.

I will not say in case it was someone here.


Right now I am toying with a TDS-5M ( not mine ) that I was rather shocked to find out was a bass light one. Light as in very light. I guess production variance, there is no accounting for that on these things. Guessing it was a different run or factory.

Luckily I know someone who has done one of thes bass "lite" already that provided a basic guideline to bring up the low end a bit to satisfactory levels. I will substitute some magic Angel Hair in place of one material that should get better results ( might be time to stock up on that again ).


Gorgeous looking driver anyhow. Like new.

 These had a ring of typical yellow foam between the driver and baffle so that particular leak had to be plugged.

Cleaned off the foam and used a thin strip of Dynamat around the base to seal that off and secure the driver. Not much room since the cup screw posts need to get fit/slide back against the baffle ridges again, but I got it all secured.


It's getting late so might call it a night, depends on what the Shiraz ( tuning juice ) says to me.




Anyone got any new finds/ purchases/ tweaks/ thoughts about the current new crop/ etc etc?



Seem to have nailed these,  the drivers are tight so things are very fast.


- I did the seals like shown above,

- put a ring of adhesive felt in rears,

- 0.5 grams Angel Hair per side,

- 50 mm disc of Arctic Cotton on back of drivers flush against driver rear fuzzier side to driver (cut a slit to slide it past the middle contact tab),

- Sony 150/200 pads to keep it all low profile ( soft HD25 pads dropped bass a bit due to height),

- disc of a denser black foam cut from pad inserts placed in ear opening ( from Wang Yifei on ebay ).


==>  I'd call these done but I see from outside that the Angel Hair is visible in the vents. I stuffed the stock dual felt strip vent felt in the baffle sides to make sure it stayed put while reseating things, but I guess I should really try to get it down at the vents.

 Will do that tomorrow night. Certainly NOTHING wrong with the way these sound now. So at least I can elminate that "what if " aspect by moving the stock damping felt strips down to the vents themselves and see what changes.

Worst case I put them back to this again. not really such a bad thing if ya ask me.


Didn't think I could get these up like this after hearing them stock. Someone should be very happy.

Edited by nick n - 3/9/15 at 1:13am
post #23844 of 23847

I spent a couple weeks wearing the yhd-3 exclusively at work. powered by an O2 amp with a y2 dac behind it (so neutral it's gone 'round back again, through colored, and back to neutral again). 


With the cloth-over-makeup-sponge-donut pads they are more comfortable than with the stiffer of the pleather donuts, but clamping force is still surprisingly strong. 


My current damping strategy and pad combination results in an unavoidably congested sound. 


I think i am back to the drawing board for a while. 

post #23845 of 23847

so you manged to tame the top end a bit more comfortably then?

post #23846 of 23847

Oh it was some other headphone that had a harsh top end.


Certainly the K270-Playback when i tried it w/o the fabric-covered foam facing. Damn those are good cans. 


I will have to try a few things on the YHD-3. Someone at work commented that every time they see me i have a dfferent pair of headphones so maybe it's time to re-tune the T10. 

post #23847 of 23847

Hi everybody. I scanned through some (but not all 1590 pages!) of this thread, and even used the special search link in the first post, but I'm still having difficulty finding the key posts that explain just exactly how to disassemble, mod, and reassemble my YH-1 headphones for the modifications being discussed. I've read enough to see that there is some variation in the mod itself, so I guess I'll have to figure out how to sort through that, but the last thing I want to do is destroy my YH-1. They are in wonderful condition and I'd like to see what sort of improvement can be had. If someone could guide me in identifying the crucial posts I'd be very grateful.

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