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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1590

post #23836 of 23842
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

was reading some posts and they seemed to say it will stick to your tip and be hard to get off, possibly wreck the tip, but so long as you get it all off without obviously heating up the tab too much, apparently yes you can replace it with other solder once clean. Not many posts to search through actually ( 2 pages worth ) best have a look to be sure, I just searched " aluminum solder "


need tips for alum solder? read my previous posts about reconnecting the loosing solder connectivity of my previous T10..all you need is an oil (from car or motorcycle machine oil) to make it work with conventional solder tools, Nick..wink.gif
Edited by iQEM - 3/2/15 at 5:26am
post #23837 of 23842
Pulled the vinyl donuts back off of the yhd-3 in favor of the foam donut & fabric for comfort reasons.

Removed one of the viva layers because i felt they were over-damped.

Sound is good but oddly harsh? Piano can be kinda painful.

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes
post #23838 of 23842

thanks iQEM !

 

ericj 

 

It is strange that those are harsh. They should be the same drivers as the YHE-50's but I noticed a bit of edginess also in stock form still here. I was going to toy with making the pads shallower like the stock YHE-50 are, I  THINK I pressed the small vinyl pads closer and it edged off that edge  a bit more. YHE-50 I find stock are not like that at all. Wonder if it is production variances or>??

the housings are identical, drivers seem identical.

I have not yet remounted the pleather pads so that the pad bottom rests on the baffle face and the flaps fold out and over, this seems to drop it a bit closer but is it enough, unsure yet.

 

Did you add the plastidip spray maybe that...

 

Thoughts?

 

They sure look good.


Edited by nick n - 3/3/15 at 1:56pm
post #23839 of 23842

I took one of the donut holes and sprayed it with plasti-dip. the results were not good - the foam absorbs the dip and becomes hard. 

 

So, no. just makeup sponge donut w/ fabric. 

 

I found my black felt so I will cut some circles soon. fwiw i have been testing these with the mini-rig used at work -- foobar2k flac -> amb y2 dac -> o2 amp. 

 

They sounded harsher with the Total Bithead i have knocking around by this laptop at home, but that's probably just because the chips in that amp are kinda shouty. 

post #23840 of 23842

Unfortunately I think that the cable on my Yamaha HP1s has come to the end of it's life. can anyone suggest the easiest way to recable HP1s? it would be good to replace the cable with a high quality one that isn't too expensive.

 

Sam

post #23841 of 23842

You should try to find one that has the same thickness where they split off and where they enter the cups, so you can slide on the old strain reliefs again and make them seal up properly without having to modify that point on each cup. Don't have to but it makes it easier.

  I use whatever is around generally, but I know someone in here must have a preference. \

Maybe leeperry he is big on this series.

 

Please check back in when you do it. Pictures preferrably !


Edited by nick n - 3/3/15 at 9:51pm
post #23842 of 23842
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrytrainhp1 View Post
 

Unfortunately I think that the cable on my Yamaha HP1s has come to the end of it's life. can anyone suggest the easiest way to recable HP1s? it would be good to replace the cable with a high quality one that isn't too expensive.

 

Sam


Is your cable actually damaged or are you concerned that it is old? The original cables actually impart some of the character to the HP1 so I have stopped trying to replace them if I can. Mogami quad mic cable is a pretty good fit in the US ( in order to reuse the strain relief ) .

 

..dB

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