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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1571

post #23551 of 23556
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post
 

Heh, it took a while for the Hifiman and Audeze ppl to find out that there's nothing comfier than a Bellini headband: http://www.head-fi.org/t/738025/new-audeze-prototype-z#post_10953629

I was always under the impression the 'suspension' headband idea came from AKG, but now that I think about it, I have no idea who first came up with it.

Was it really Bellini? 

I'm pretty sure it wasn't.

post #23552 of 23556

It may or may not be, although the split load does seem pretty unique.

But I'd be glad to be told otherwise anytime... the more I know/learn... -=☆

*cues nick for that picture*

post #23553 of 23556
Quote:

Originally Posted by GREQ View Post

 

Was it really Bellini? I'm pretty sure it wasn't.

Would be glad to be proven wrong :regular_smile : 

post #23554 of 23556

Just for the giggles, so this is what $269 get you in the dynamic world: http://www.musicdirect.com/p-119290-alpha-design-labs-h118-headphones.aspx

 

 

One of the worst earpads shape I've seen and I can hear the cheap plastic resonate just by looking at the picture :tongue: 

 

Of course the plug is rhodium plated ^^


Edited by leeperry - 10/26/14 at 6:59pm
post #23555 of 23556

Just a few thoughts to share with you guys as I am finishing a replacement HP/YH-1/2 headband. This directly applies to making new headbands of the same shape/type as the original, but could come in handy for other headphones too.

 

  1. The weight distribution of the stock headband is mainly split along the ribs (plastic covered part) and partially spread over the cloth part.
  2. Even if the rib is cracked (to some extent), the headband is still perfectly usable and comfortable.
  3. Using the length and hole layout of the original HP/YH-1/2 headband, chances are that the same headband will not fit a T50RP. It needs to be shorter for the latter.
  4. When selecting material for making the headband, do a small stretch test. Some materials will elongate too much too fast, in which case could be remedied by making the headband shorter. Even a thick, two layer synthetic leather will stretch out easily with use, possibly making the headband too long even for the adjustment sliders.
  5. If your scalp or hair tends to get greasy, synthetic leather might not be the best choice since it risks hardening (although not as badly as when used as earpads).
  6. If using neoprene for to replace the cloth part, forming a grid by triangle or other shape cutouts could increase the elasticity i.e. feels softer on the head. However, before doing this, test the neoprene by cutting an strip of the material at the average width of the grid and pulling it's two ends. If the neoprene breaks leaving just the cloth outstretched or permanently elongated, either avoid using grid form or increase width of grid strips.
  7. Using a thicker material as the middle section of the headband (the cloth part of the stock headband) such as neoprene could be comfortable but will still not give the same sensation as the stock headband. The actual part resting on the head will not be the rib, depending if you sew the thicker material over or under the rib... in which case, consider the orientation of the materials.
  8. Splitting the headband in the middle along the length can help spread the load instead of concentrating on the top of the head.
  9. The stock YH/HP-1 headband is actually thicker than the stock YH/HP-2 headband. Not too important.
  10. The ends of the headband should still be a strong enough material that can retain its shape but also thin enough. The HP/YH-1 headband is about 1.16mm thick at the ends and about 1.00mm for the HP/YH-2. Something not too much thicker is the target thickness. Too thick and the screws might not be seated properly.
  11. The ends of the headband should ideally not be too much of a squishy material. When screwing in the "JAPAN" plastic washer, a soft (and especially if thicker) material will cause it to crack right down the middle along the screw path.

 

 

And just to serve as example...

Yes, I took the picture in the washroom. The only place still bright enough at this hour.

I tried using neoprene with a textured leather rib. The textured leather isn't very thick but has little to no elasticity or stretch, perhaps because of the surface hardening to make the textured surface.

 

Most of the shortcomings are listed in my enumerated thoughts above. I couldn't cut out a grid on the neoprene because this neoprene was way too cheap quality. Dollarstore laptop/tablet sleeve. Tested a small piece and the whole thing deformed when pulled, meaning it will deform a lot in the long run if done that way.

 

The neoprene was sewn UNDER the leather rib, with the rough, textured surface facing outwards. Problem is the loading/weight distribution happens all in the middle on the neoprene. Perhaps the neoprene part been looser in the center it would have been a bit closer to the original. My previous builds (below) with two layer synthetic leather were actually a lot more comfortable, although now stretched out beyond proper usability. I might have to cut the neoprene along the length because it is quite uncomfortable in comparison to past builds.

Left: Weight split completely on two parts, with the spread adjustable. The narrower width of material meaning it stretches out more easily...

Right: Instead of ribbed design, just a headband sliced across the length in the middle. The cut bends the headband on the top of the head to conform and spread weight over head.

 

 

And now regarding the ends of the headband.

I actually added an extra layer of soft brown leather to go under the plastic washers. My reasoning was that I liked how the synthetic leather had the washer imprint it's shape on it, making it feel more permanent. It would also serve as extra material to slow down wear and tear of the leather rib. BAD idea.

It is hard to see it in the picture but the washer cracked. I looked around at my HP-2 shell that has a synthetic leather headband and surely enough it is also cracked although not as badly. The combination of thickness, spongy material, and screw layout makes tightening the screws bend the washer outwards to it's left and right. 

 

 

TL:DR? No worries I feel ya.

Just a few observations that will hopefully come useful to anyone replicating the Yamaha headband design.

I have yet to replicate again the foam & elastic one.

post #23556 of 23556

Thanks a lot ! Very usefull post ! :)

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