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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1555

post #23311 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarsonis View Post
 

I'm just curious if I could get it more perfect with the "old" drivers and their housing or if it's wasted time.


Sharp angles create tons of stray inner-cup resonances and plastic buzzes while wood resonates, IMHO and IME many vintage ortho drivers are worth more than what their crappy stock enclosures might lead to believe as these very beefy drivers are utterly crippled by tiny plastic cups. The original Thunderpants took the market by storm for that very reason, no more square angled el cheapo plastic cups buzzing along with your music.

 

All those Fostexens you mentioned used rectangular cups made of the cheapest and thinnest plastic, rehouse or go home IMHO.

post #23312 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post
 

 

It would be interesting to see how its drivers were soldered, just to know if that old hifi magazine mentioned on wikiphonia was right when they said that wires were inverted on the pair they reviewed.

I'll do it tomorrow, it's too late over here :o

post #23313 of 23978

No need to rehouse in my opinion. I got the sound and as an extra the impulse/fr response that is well beyond the thunderpants with my mod. Looking at the innerfidelity charts. Those distortion and square wave results look really weak. Can imaging thats a fun phone but I'm aiming towards a different goal. Of course they look nice with that housing. Anyway my question goes more towards the T40v1 driver incl. housing if they perform and measure more balanced than the T40MKII in stock.

post #23314 of 23978

I'm afraid you cannot measure subjective SQ and we all hear differently so I've always been vastly dubious regarding all those fancy graphs.

 

http://www.davidgriesinger.com/headphones.htm

Quote:
the coupling of high frequencies to the eardrum varies greatly among individuals.  It is influenced by the volume of the concha, the diameter and geometry of the ear canal, the eardrum impedance and other factors.

 

And distortion figures will change quite a bit depending on the size of your skull, the shape of your ear canals, the placement of the drivers over the pinnas, how old the earpads are etc etc.

 

It's IMHO quite undeniable that wooden cups don't buzz along with your music, even Beyer use ABS in most of their audiophile phones for a good reason. All those Fostexens use the cheapest kind of plastic they could get away with and that's very audible.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by spbach View Post
 

Since J$ pads aren't being produced any longer, is there another circumnaural option for these?

 

Not sure, but I guess you could try offering $50 for this pair: http://www.head-fi.org/t/724353/jmoney-lambskin-earpads-v2


Edited by leeperry - 6/26/14 at 5:45pm
post #23315 of 23978

Just FYI NexxTech made or makes a wireless phone whos velour pads are a dead solid circumaural fit for the Fostai T Series.

post #23316 of 23978

ham sfi making of

 

post #23317 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by BucketInABucket View Post
 

Are they SFI tweeters or actual SFI headphone drivers?

 

Either way, good to know that they sound good to you :) 


1. what difference can you tell? 32 ohm version - same magnets, same membrane and tensioning on it's frame, same spacing between magnets. holder sometimes can be thick plastic rinng instead of alluminium in some oem headphones and different dust covers - had even couple of oem headphones (dynasound or whatever) with fancy metal mesh.

2. still don't believe, it seems. not just for me. i always test my headphones on humans. mostly rich ones - who can buy (and do so) any cans they want and can compare.

and i really started to like those small SFI's. one thing they really need - rigid, stiff construction, no plastics or thin parts, ewerythig tight - then they start singing. earpads with no reflections inside too.

post #23318 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Ah... I recognise the bottom left (red wood cups) headband.

I guess you painted the brushed aluminium?


yes, posted them earlier. anodizing would be better, maybe some day when more alluminium parts will gather make them really nice.

post #23319 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballhead View Post
 


1. what difference can you tell? 32 ohm version - same magnets, same membrane and tensioning on it's frame, same spacing between magnets. holder sometimes can be thick plastic rinng instead of alluminium in some oem headphones and different dust covers - had even couple of oem headphones (dynasound or whatever) with fancy metal mesh.

2. still don't believe, it seems. not just for me. i always test my headphones on humans. mostly rich ones - who can buy (and do so) any cans they want and can compare.

and i really started to like those small SFI's. one thing they really need - rigid, stiff construction, no plastics or thin parts, ewerythig tight - then they start singing. earpads with no reflections inside too.

The ones designed for headphones tend to be a lot more bassy than the tweeters judging by what I've already heard. Takes a really good tight damping scheme to bring out the bass for the tweeters while the headphone drivers require much less effort. I can't work out why either, there's really not much visible difference between the SFI tweeters and headphone drivers.

 

Also, I'm not implying that they don't sound good, it's just interesting for me to see that you made them work in the crystal radio headset shell. New innovations and ideas are always welcome.

post #23320 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by BucketInABucket View Post
 

The ones designed for headphones tend to be a lot more bassy than the tweeters judging by what I've already heard. Takes a really good tight damping scheme to bring out the bass for the tweeters while the headphone drivers require much less effort. I can't work out why either, there's really not much visible difference between the SFI tweeters and headphone drivers.

 

Also, I'm not implying that they don't sound good, it's just interesting for me to see that you made them work in the crystal radio headset shell. New innovations and ideas are always welcome.


dipole version is exactly the same thing; and can be really bassy with added mass, as i mentioned before. those ham's are street style, plenty of tight deep bass. bass is fast, maybe not so layered and detailed as from bigger drivers, but overall exellent cans, very detailed and musical, good for brutal dense music too. there are two bass ports on the sides (top and bottom), not completely closed.

post #23321 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballhead View Post
 


dipole version is exactly the same thing; and can be really bassy with added mass, as i mentioned before. those ham's are street style, plenty of tight deep bass. bass is fast, maybe not so layered and detailed as from bigger drivers, but overall exellent cans, very detailed and musical, good for brutal dense music too. there are two bass ports on the sides (top and bottom), not completely closed.

what drivers you put into Pioneers? SFI or something bigger? 

post #23322 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by Igenich View Post
 

what drivers you put into Pioneers? SFI or something bigger? 


all four are with SFI drivers; but I did another pioneer l-40 with 55mm pmb's, there is enough space for them.

 


Edited by ballhead - 6/27/14 at 9:55am
post #23323 of 23978
So, some YH-1000's I was bidding on up until $300 finally sold for $926. Maybe next time...
post #23324 of 23978

Are there any impressions of YH-1000?

post #23325 of 23978
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballhead View Post
 


all four are with SFI drivers; but I did another pioneer l-40 with 55mm pmb's, there is enough space for them.

 

How does they sound? Sound of which one do you like more? PMB55 or SFI ? How does this SFI Pioneer comparing to HAM SFI ? ALL your headphones are very beautiful, you makes me to want  do something like this :)

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