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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1545

post #23161 of 24682

I didn't want to go through the pain of modding both the T20V2 and the YH-100 as from what I've read both are notoriously tough to damp to satisfaction. Also, I can't afford the YH-100 (something I realized 3 hours before the end of the auction) even if I topped up the money in my paypal. Oh well, maybe I'll get one in the future. For now I gotta be happy with what I have :o

post #23162 of 24682

They have been around for decades, another couple of years there should still be some.( at least it sounds like a good argument )

post #23163 of 24682
I bid on it and was snipped at the last second. Kinda glad because my pair were uncomfortable on my ears after long listening and it took away from the experience. I am also pretty much over vintage/old gear unless it's super cheap yard sale find or something. Still a great deal, almost like a yh1000 going for 800 at today's crazy dealings.
post #23164 of 24682

For what it's worth here is a Soviet build ( stock condition post here minus goofy decals and deflated hard vinyl pads http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/22980#post_10562013 )

 

Next project after this one is that Sony thing I posted using HP-50S drivers. But that has a billion small parts.

I used a Koss 6/LC something. Something.
 

  • Replaced hard black exposed foam headband with contact cemented leather and new foam inner, edge corners rounded off on top of original plastic strip.
  • Twaron Angel Hair at the magic 5 grams per liter rate
  • Nothing added on driver rears but stock dust guard material
  • Echo H16-40C drivers secured to baffle using Dynamat.
  •  

[ A friend redid this first picture for some period photo effect so it is here in place of the original , looks like it came right out of an old catalog or something :)  ]

 

 

 

  • Fabric cord from the parts bin, stock overhead wires, was going to dual entry this thing but easier to use stock cup holes.
  • Still need to dry brush the lettering black better after dabbing badges with some silver paint on a bit of foam. Painted lame brown baffle edges black.
  • Front of Koss baffle center cut away with a ring of holes drilled around the outside letting the obscured outer driver holes breathe ( driver rests a few mm behind baffle rear surface) Baffle mounts with no screws and a simple twist, but need to pry out a little tab top and bottom with a thin screwdriver and twist

 

  • A stock open slot on the cup bottoms under the mesh I added. Took out the felt insole material I had blocking that.
  • Fostex T50rp pads to bring ears closer to driver, tried a few pads that were slightly taller but  this hits the zone where pressing on cups sounds the same, the others needed to be pressed to hit this point

 

 

 

 

 

hmmm what else, well there are no nasty resonances, they don't sound closed, I call this one done. First attempt if you don't count removing the insole felt in rear vents. Drivers are waking up after their long sleep to Nina Hagen's Volksbeat album.

Comfortable as anything.

Nice even keeled signature.


Edited by nick n - 6/13/14 at 6:46pm
post #23165 of 24682

Good lord. A project where  Fostex pads are actually useful. Who'd a thought?:)

 

You did a terrific job on those vents.

 

Nina rendered by a Soviet headphone, there's something really ironic about that.:)

post #23166 of 24682

Finally something the T50 pads are great on:)

 

Going to whip in and seal off that ring of vents I drilled on the baffle hole perimeter so that will act as a sort of bass lens.

Also maybe seal off the 2 rectangular baffle face holes by where the headband attaches to the cups. They are under the pads so a quick fix.

 

 


Edited by nick n - 6/9/14 at 12:49am
post #23167 of 24682

that looks great , way to go Nick..dB

post #23168 of 24682

So, I received the Fostex T20V2 today. How do I go by modding it?

post #23169 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by BucketInABucket View Post
 

So, I received the Fostex T20V2 today. How do I go by modding it?


I like them even in stock form. But will try some mods later - at this moment I have HP50A to play with :)

post #23170 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Igenich View Post
 


I like them even in stock form. But will try some mods later - at this moment I have HP50A to play with :)

They sound bass-light and a bit peaky in stock form imo. Even the Argentum has more bass than them which is strange.

post #23171 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by BucketInABucket View Post

 

They sound bass-light and a bit peaky in stock form imo. Even the Argentum has more bass than them which is strange.

I think the pair you received needs re cabling and then seal the cups. Also change the pads, shure840?

Then you can think of any damping scheme... 
 

post #23172 of 24682

Will HM5 pads work too? Just wanna leave my options open.

post #23173 of 24682

There are two different versions exists - bass light (with thin letters on the cups) and bass heavy (with bold letters on the cups). I think my are bass light, but still they has more bass then my TDS H16-40, Yamaha HP/YH-2, TDS 5M.

I tried HM-5 pads and sound became flat( no bass at all) and mute with them, I think because of big space inside pad comparing to original ones.

I think better to start with recabling and next dumping for you. For dumping I want to try Faust2D  scheme.


Edited by Igenich - 6/9/14 at 4:55am
post #23174 of 24682

I think mine are bass-light too. Drat! Yea, I'll recable them first and then see what to do next.

 

UPDATE: I've decided to sell them. I can't be bothered to mod them so out the window they go (not literally :ph34r:).


Edited by BucketInABucket - 6/9/14 at 10:45am
post #23175 of 24682

Fostex T30 went for $255,00 :basshead: 
 

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