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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1532

post #22966 of 23474

Yes, you might need bigger screws.

post #22967 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by BucketInABucket View Post

So I replaced the wool donut with arctic cotton today, unsealed the driver from the baffle and made a small hole in the pads. I'm going to reseal the driver later today along with drilling the above holes as I suspect that it's the main reason why the bass quantity hasn't really changed. I don't have any access to open-cell foam at the moment so I have to improvise with what I currently have.
All foam with reasonable density that I have had access to has been packing foam, such as the ones that hold some headphones in place inside their retail boxes (i.e. Grados).
You will likely be able to find the sponge wedges in the cosmetic aisle of the supermarket, the non-scratch scrubber too.

Cheers.
post #22968 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by c61746961 View Post


All foam with reasonable density that I have had access to has been packing foam, such as the ones that hold some headphones in place inside their retail boxes (i.e. Grados).
You will likely be able to find the sponge wedges in the cosmetic aisle of the supermarket, the non-scratch scrubber too.

Cheers.

 

Talking about foam, anyone knows where to find 1,5-2,5 mm black/grey open cell foam to put in front and back of the driver? Large sheets or roll would be preferrable. I've found sheets for drying dishes, but only white or yellow.

post #22969 of 23474

Continuation from my current project. I took some of the suggestions from all of you and used them in this mod.

Picture diary. (Click to show)

I bent the metal headbands to increase the clamp as I noticed that pressing the cups on to my ears also improved the bass response. I also got sick of the anemic bass that I couldn't coax out so I drilled a hole in the cups in the place which I thought would least ruin them. I need some acetone to get rid of the white stains though...

Close-up of one of the cups.

Arctic bamboo in the back of the cup to damp the bass port.

A donut of foam I dredged up from packaging on top of the AB.

A donut of arctic cotton (sorry for the blur).

And a donut of arctic bamboo to round it off.

This is the front of the baffle. Sealed the holes I drilled into the baffle earlier, put a ring of paxmate along the driver diameter and put a piece of arctic bamboo in front of the driver.

Changes: much better bass (still sub-bass-light and obviously not comparable to my D2K but at least it can thump quite well with EDM now) and a darker sound signature.

post #22970 of 23474
Glad you made it work ; )
post #22971 of 23474

Hi there !

 

Asking for your help here once again. Just acquired a DUAL DK 830. Anyone ever here opened the baffle on this enclosure?

 

I'd like to replace the original foam behind the driver, that is well known to decay with time.

 

Tried to search for this, but no luck.

 

Here is how it looks:

 

 

Could any of you tell me how am I supposed to lockpick this without breaking the plastic baffle?

 

A nice drawing with paint on this above picture is the best I can hope for...

 

Thanks in advance!

 

szerecsen

 

edit1: forgot to mention that I have found the manual, it is just that it won't help me see how this thing is assembled exactly

 

edit2: ooops, I did found help in this thread: link


Edited by szerecsen - 5/15/14 at 8:15am
post #22972 of 23474

Four holes, four latches. Put a toothpick or similar in each of them to release the latches, then pull.

 

 

 

post #22973 of 23474

My maximum respect to you, MDR30.

 

I already used your pics posted earlier in this thread to disassemble this beauty. Was pretty hard to do it.

 

before:

 

 

after:

 

 

I am putting them together at this moment.

 

Best, and thank you again!

 

edit: Can I ask why did you glue the driver to the baffle? 

szerecsen


Edited by szerecsen - 5/15/14 at 1:26pm
post #22974 of 23474

I'm designing a new baffle in sketch-up for my latest project as the current ones are getting rather sad, worn and broken. I'm going to drill the holes for the yokes once I actually get the things in the post.

Baffles. (Click to show)

I'm thinking of reinforcing the circular upright ring further but keep debating whether that would be necessary or not.


Edited by BucketInABucket - 5/15/14 at 1:48pm
post #22975 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by szerecsen View Post

My maximum respect to you, MDR30.




I am putting them together at this moment.

Best, and thank you again!

edit: Can I ask why did you glue the driver to the baffle? 
szerecsen

That's blutak. I also used thick tape to cover the holes on front of the baffle. Improves bass response markedly.
post #22976 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDR30 View Post


That's blutak. I also used thick tape to cover the holes on front of the baffle. Improves bass response markedly.

That it does.

 

 

HP 10000 headphones coming up in a little bit, a mod yes but to my mind it is always something I always wanted to use as a shell since it looks like a logical progression to the modern day of the Yamaha HP 100.

Since I got the donor shell free, and since I have a filthy HP-50S imported from Japan here simply in need of a new TRS end, why not, the Planar Dimensional gods are shining on me here. Let's see what happens.

 

Stock this thing has 40 mm angled drivers. HP1 or YH1 will not fit without serious baffle tweaking. There is a gap around the perimeter of the baffle-to-cup joint where the pad lip slides into. I will use that gap to an advantage by applying a ring of black felt using that area as similar damping found in the HP-1 vents. Might work might not. Then there is the driver variation in the HP-50 series will have to see what happens there also with this particular set of drivers, I do have some other HP-50S  drivers to try if it comes down to it. ( Japan is nice for those..:ph34r: )

Either treating the inside of the shallow cups with Plasti-dip spray or Dynamat overlaid with thin adhesive felt and the obligatory bit of Twaron Angel Hair. Plus whatever is on the driver rears.Maybe try a round version of the T50rp mod damper pads I came up with?

Donor shell is this, already ripped off the extendable microphone, and will remove white writing possibly replaced by proper looking Yamaha HP 10000 decal if i can convince a sign maker pal to do that up.

The top of the headband is a silvery metallic band. What the heck its on the cheap this one. If it is no good for a shell at least i got this silly little idea/ dream out of my system .

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

 

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2


Edited by nick n - 5/16/14 at 1:06am
post #22977 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDR30 View Post


That's blutak. I also used thick tape to cover the holes on front of the baffle. Improves bass response markedly.


Oh, I see now, Blu-Tack it is.

 

Would you, guys, suggest only to cover the holes marked with the red circles on MDR30's drawing, or all of the larger ones, or even those small ones around the centre hole on the baffle?

 

From what you say, I feel you suggest to cover all the holes, like this:

 

 

 Am I correct?

 

szerecsen

post #22978 of 23474

I ended up covering all the holes.

My reasoning aside from the typical "seal off the baffle as much as I can " type of thinking, 

was that sealing those smaller round holes in that ring on the edge of the driver hole would act as a sort of small bass lens to focus and bring up the bass more. The outer holes on the driver there are still able to slightly breathe because  if I recall correctly the driver sits up on some raised bits that are on the baffle rears.

At least that mod of covering varying degrees of holes is easy to tweak by simply taking off the pads and changing it . No need to open them up for that if you do it from the outside with tape or decals.


Edited by nick n - 5/16/14 at 12:54am
post #22979 of 23474
Quote:
Originally Posted by szerecsen View Post
 


Oh, I see now, Blu-Tack it is.

 

Would you, guys, suggest only to cover the holes marked with the red circles on MDR30's drawing, or all of the larger ones, or even those small ones around the centre hole on the baffle?

 

From what you say, I feel you suggest to cover all the holes, like this:

 

 

 Am I correct?

 

szerecsen

 

I tried several different ways, but they are also dependant of the pads - most PMB pads have lost their pleather, and it's difficult to find good replacements.

 

I kept the "white pads" (pleather gone) and made sure the blutak covered all openings around the driver. Taped over all holes in the baffle, covering also the small crack between the baffle's two plastic parts,  except the small round ones around the inner rim. This sounded best to my ears. I also tried fixing the pads with double sided tape, but this made the sound too closed in - the pads need to breath a Little.

post #22980 of 23474

Think I ended up using HM5 pads. From the old  catalogs the modern MB Quart pads sure look the same as stock. Thomann has them I think as do MB Quart or whatever their company is called now. I lose track on that one.

Photo courtesy of Wikiphonia:

On a side note be careful if you decide to bypass that inline volume control the wiring in the cable is strange and doesn't like different solder very much.


Edited by nick n - 5/16/14 at 1:15am
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