It is a quilt batting material, there is A.Cotton ( 80% Cotton-20% Polyester ) and an A. Bamboo version (50% Natural Bamboo 50% Cotton) , basically a fuzzier felt type material, around the same thickness as felt. A.Bamboo is a little more transparent and slightly thinner, A.Cotton is slightly thicker and fuzzier.
They are my go-to in one form or another between the two of them usually things work out well, and of course in combination with other things often.
The first link is the safest and cheapest i would guess ( hard to find decent links! )
If it is a real pain in the butt to source out PM me and I can send a bunch out to you on me since it is relatively cheap and i get it by the metre/yard. Same two types as have been used in here to decent result.
I will make a point of going out tomorrow and getting another yard or two of each to ensure I have enough for a lifetime of mods.:)
It was part of one of the crucial keys in the main Memory Foam Mod T50rp damping recently posted in the Incremental Mods Thread
By the way have you ever opened the TDS-7, it scares me. I have seen it open in pictures before and can tell where the tabs are but doing it is another intimidating factor, definitely need opening and tweaking, but I don't wish to botch it up! I can usually get into most things including trouble
I finally found the time to take a whack at my TDS-7. The set I have has been around the block many times from the look of them. Still, pictures may help you guys getting inside. Of interest, the outer headband support structure with metal (nickel?) is conductive to the side opposite the cable entry. Both "wire frames" are slotted in a pivoting mechanism and pop right out if aligned properly.
Looks to me like a transplant could work but would require some re-tooling of the stock driver frames. I do not think they would fit inside a Takstar HI-2050. The TDS-15 drivers I transplanted into HI-2050 just barely fit without the need for any re-tooling.
The magnets were not glued in place and I came close to destroying the diaphragm on the side in the pictures, below. Luckily, all I did was dent the exterior membrane a little.
The rear half of the cup pops off using a flathead screwdriver as a lever.
The wire "super structure" pops into the pivots on each side where the wires are soldered.
I suspect the single screw on the left is stock and the other 3 are "make do's."
The ear side of the driver. Someone before me glued plastic onto the frame as a baffle.
Clear view of the pivots and "hot" wire frame.
Must remember to super glue those magnets in place after making sure they are situated to oppose one another.