I thought the T20 had a circular driver...
That's the old generation Fostex driver. All the current T20/40/50 models use the same (supposedly) square drivers.
yeah why not get the T20. I think the only real difference in there is that the rear cup hanger post in the cups is not capped off there might be some other slight thing. I recall someone modding them up nicely close enough to the T50 to be worthy. Maybe they will see this post because i forget who it was.
Stock pads for the T20 may not be the best but that is later if you even do it.
Hold off on adding any more to the drivers to patch them because once it is put on ,going back and redoing it if it doesn't work again may be difficult
I have a T20RP MKII modified by bluemonkeyflier - it's truly awesome what he did to it.
Of course it's all the same T50 mods you can find in his 'incremental mods and measurements' thread.
I wasn't aware that subjective SQ was measured in USD currency these days, thank you very much for clearing that up
All the kids are talking about it.
Would you care to explain SQ for me please? Thanks
That's precisely what I was afraid of, the square drivers... Would you happen to know during what years these models came with the round ortho drivers, so that i can look out form them o ebay or elsewhere? Thanks in advance!
^ Maybe my modification of a Mylar NAD RP-18 will help with your Kapton version.
NAD RP-18 Mylar Version: Repairs and Modification
The sound quality is very good; certainly better than when they arrived and, in my opinion, better than the all stock RP-18 Kapton version I had on hand for direct comparison. The bass digs deep but remains fast and musical without bloating. The midrange is clear, lush, and smooth. The treble details are more clear and present, without fatigue.
A friend sent me an unmodified set of Kapton NAD RP-18 for comparison with his previously modified set of Mylar NAD RP-18. His Mylar version required repairs and re-modification. The Kapton version initially "Wowed" me. The previously modified Mylar version sounded congested with loose boomy bass, muffled mids, and squashed treble.
I began work on the Mylar set. The cable junction at the Y-splitter was not soldered. Instead, the connections were held together by plastic tubes, heat shrink, and duct tape. I started there...below the splitter. I soldered new connections and sealed them with 3:1 heat shrink. The cup threads (only 3 per cup) had been stripped so the seal was defeated on both sides. I used my super glue re-tapping method I've successfully used many times before to re-tap new cup threads in Fostex T20/40/50RP.
Next up, "grunt work" trying many, many different materials in various configurations over the course of 6 weeks...I lost count...really. I am happy with the final results. To my "ears and gears," the repaired and re-modified Mylar NADs now sound very good and better than the stock Kapton version.
NAD RP-18 Mylar Version:
After market pads held on with strips of double sided tape. Drivers and magnets.
Here are my repairs and re-modification:
The stock dust covers were fouled with glue debris so I Double sided tape rings for securing pads surround
replaced them with speaker grille cloth. Closed Cell Foam "focus rings"
Yellow = STAX Micron Glass Wool with gauze underlay – Left = Rear Side. Right = Ear Side
Double sided tape protective covering removed and ready HiFi Man Velour pads soak up excess bass produced by 2X
for pads. the ear side driver opening compared to the stock NAD pads.
Leather and pleather pads were way too bassy resulting in
Boomy Bass Bloat (B3 :)
NAD RP-18 Kapton version. I did not remove the yellow biscuits because the owner wanted them kept in stock form:
I finally got my Smelas in today! They actually sound kind of like what I was expecting. The treble definitely is a problem area, but they're incredibly engaging.